fuel questions and boost creep
 

Ok, Im hella confused, Im dropping in a remanufactured stock motor in my 87 turbo II that I just got, I am planning on a Apex-i 3" catback, stock cat and downpipe, apex-i BOV and a HKS intake, am I going to have to worry about boost creep and running lean with just these mods? I might put in a Greddy FMIC while I'm at it (worth it??) what mods do I need to do so I dont smoke my new motor? money isnt really an issue and the car is not my daily driver, just my canyon carver and occasional drag racer. should I get the Apex-i fuel computer and the FCD? please give me some straight answers!!!! thankyou

You definitely need to get an upgraded fuel pump and an FCD. A Walboro 255 should do just fine. A FMIC shouldn't be necessary with the stock turbo. I'm not sure what boost level you will be seeing but if you are really worried about boost creep, leave the stock intake and TID on; it's pretty good about keeping boost down. The S-AFC would be pretty useful for turning down your fuel in the low-mid range.

Dan

Definately do yourself a favor and port the wastegate on the turbo while its out of the car.

is porting of the wastgate accomplishable by myself, or should I take it to a machine shop?

ive never done it, but from what i have read on this forum everyone has ported their wastegates oh there own

Get your hands on a dremel and a grinding stone attachment. It will make the job very easy. I also took a cone shaped stone attachment and ground away a portion of the back cover to allow the flapper to open a little further. I'm not sure how much that last part helped though, because my boost is shooting past 15 lbs.

Dan

You will need to get a FCD and a walbro pump for sure. You can port your wastegate yourself easily with a dremel as has been said. I just did mine last week. Your boost might stay down with the stock DP and cat though, not sure.

ok, so how much ideally should I grind the wastegate out? a few mm's a 1/4 inch? and should I need to disasemble the turbo unit to do this, or can I just carefully do it with it on? (my car is in Indiana right now and I'm in the Persian Gulf, so I cant take a quick glance at it!!)

Grind it out to the same size as the flapper door. There are two bolts on the back cover (where your downpipe connects) that you need to remove to gain access to the wastegate. There should also be a 'c' clip that holds the actuator arm onto the flapper. It is real straight forward.

Dan

hey, Im having trouble finding the fuel pump online---any suggestions on where to find it? any thought on the exhaust Im gonna get (Apex-I N1 cat back)?

i ported mine to 22mm which is 2mm bigger than the door but with everything hooked up and the actuator arm connected the door covers almost all of the hole. the rule is the door should cover 75% of the hole.

the afc really isn't nessicary at this point unless you plan on upgrading your fuel injectors. You should get the fuel pump like everyone says though. FCD is also a must. If you want, get a manual boost controller instead of the afc. Invest in a real nice boost guage too. That'd be fun. Porting the wastegate is a must. The fmic is worth it if you upgrade the turbo itself. Until then, spend your dollars else where. In my opinion, do the fcd, pump, intake+TID, dp, mp, cat-back, port the wastegate, and get a boost controller and boost guage. that's $1500 well spent. :)

-Kanaida

ok, so here we are, while the engine is out I am going to port my turbo wastegate to 22mm, Im installing a ACT 6 puk clutch at the same time, gonna get my fuel injectors cleaned and flowed, etc... new plugs and wires, install the warlbro 255 fuel pump (If I can find a place that sells them) install the FCD (from what I understand this is a 1 minute process) A/F ratio and boost gauges, turbo timer and a Apex-i BOV....should I upgrade to 3mm apex seals when I order my engine? I am planning many more mods in the future. then after I have my car shipped back to california I am going to install the Apex-i exhaust and either a K&N fipk or the HKS intake. does this all sound like a realistic plan for mildly improved performance? my short term goal is super low 14's to high 13's in the 1/4 mile.

What rule is that? Logic says the flap should cover 100% of the port, otherwise the turbo will spool up slower due to exhaust gases leaking through the wastegate before it's supposed to be open.
If you plan to port the wastegate bigger than the stock flap (which is a good idea), get a bigger flap fitted. Any turbo workshop should be able to do this.

I believe at 23mm the entire hole is still covered by the stock flap.

Corky Bell, I dare say he knows a little about turbo's. Yes spool up time would probably be a little longer, but then again the 90 degree exit to the wastegate on my s4 turbo isn't the easiest flow route for air in the first place. Obviously welding on a bigger flap would be the best option, but I don't think it would seriously cause a major hinderance in peformance.

boostmotorsport replaced the wastegate flapper door with a honda h22 exhaust valve

ok, so I will try and port my wastegate to 23mm, but my main question is: how am I to prevent debris from getting inside the turbo housing while porting? do I need to dissasemble the entire turbo to do this evolution?

just cover the extra holes up, the wastegate bypass's the turbo so no need to worry of stuff falling in