Fuel pump power problem
 

the other day my TII just stopped runnning and wouldnt restart. i thought it might be the apex seals, but i check the compression and everthing was good. i checked for spark and there was. then i detatched the lines at the fuel pump and nothing was happening. i checked all the connections in the back and they were good. i checked the front relay connector and that seemed to be good as well. then i detached the pump and put it directely to the battery and it pumped, so i knew it wasnt the pump itself (since i just put the new walbro 255 in about a month ago). I checked the rear pump harness to see if it was getting power, and only the power at the harness was at the two level sensor wires, none at the main pump power! one of the level sensor wires blinked and the other was constant. the voltage of the level sonsor wires was at like 9.5-10 which i thought should be 11-12ish. I have tried the jumper wire trick at the front little yellow harness, but with no success. So basically, I have absolutely no power (on the black-white wire) at the rear harness. at this point im lost and im thinking about just doing the 1300cc.com rewire but i dont want to if i dont have too. if anyone has any ideas about something i might have missed then please feel free to let me know. if there is a fuse or something under the dash or whatever, i need to know. i have been without my 7 for a week now trying to figure this thing out :-( thanks all for your help.
josh

ps. i did read the earlier post by Khemfusion and J-rat but i didnt get what khem did to fix it. i know he did the 1300cc.com rewire but that calls for an "already working" fuel pump. please help

err.

Turn the key to ON. Put your meter on the yellow connectors sockets one at a time. One should be a ground. The other should show 12v. Now the 12v should have been on the Brown wire and what that 12v is, is 12v being read through the Circuit Opening Relay's coil, located under the dash above the steering wheel column. That will tell us if the Circuit Opening Relay is getting 12v to it. Write back.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=914413

i'll go check... 'll see what i can find

well i rewired the entire system. but... i still need to attach the power wire that goes from the original fuel pump harness. that wire is the one that tells the new relay when to be on/off, and that is the wire that had no power to begin with. so what should i use instead, should i just run a separate ignition wire or is there a better way.
secondly, for the hell of trying, i decided to just run a power line from the battery directly to the fuel pump. i put a switch in it, and started cranking the engine, flipped the switch and nothing happened. my battery was charged so that wasnt it, but my relay/resister was disconecter, because i was in the middle of my rewire. shouldnt the car still start if im directly pumping gas up to the injectors? anyways im gonna try to run a wire from the ignition and see what happens. thanks
josh

Yeah, the 1300cc rewire calls for working power in your fuel pump, but mine did not have that. You do everything the same way that it says from the 1300cc website, but instead of using the ignition to a extra relay, I just stuck it straight to the battery with a killswitch.

With it coming off the battery you should be able to hear the pump running whenever you flick the switch. What you have to do is turn over the engine until it starts to 'catch' then hit the switch to start fuel. Mine pretty much start right up as fast as it would with just normal key activated ignition, you'll understand what I mean on turning it over

BTW: I am also using the walbro 255 fuel pump, I made a diagram of what I did in MSPAINT too, if you want to see, the pen drawing is what 1300cc calls for originally, and the terrible terrible paint reworking is what I did


http://www3.telus.net/battle/rerewire10

If the pump was a pumpin...then the car shoulda started. Make sure the afm is connected up though and all the other things you took loose. You had spark earlier so if you added the fuel it should have started.

thanks khem, i got the pump working with the kill switch trick, and it is pumping like theirs no tomorrow. Now the damn thing still wont start. like i said before the compression is still good and their should still be spark. i back tracked all the connection i could have taken apart and they are connected as they should be. is it possible that i burnt out the plugs or something simple like that because of trying to start it so many times with out fuel??? im gonna go play with it for a while and see what i can do. i'll let you know what happens. I want my car running again :-(
josh

omg im gonna flip out. compression good and fuel is pumping. Now i have no spark. i checked by just removing the wires while trying to start it, right? and when i did that their was nothing. eeeerrrrrrrrrrr. please write back, as i said its probly something easy but i dont know. thanks josh

Pull the lead coil assy small white plug. See if there is 12v on the black/yellow wire. There should be. If not, the ENGINE fuse in the cabin, or the 40a fuse in the engine bay is blown.

let me check all that. if that doesnt do it im gonna flip a s**t. ya im about to send it to mazda and let them fix it all. i think my whole car could use a new wiring harness, i have had electrical probs ever since i got the thing. it sat for 4 years before i found it and got it started so im sure that didnt help. anyways im gonna go check now. i'll keep you posted. thanks, josh

yyyyyyyaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy!!! my 7 loves me :-) i put in a fuse (just that simple) and she fired up. i think she knew i was gonna hit her if she didnt behave hehe. anyways she runnin with a switch, which is gonna take some getting used to but it'll do. now, she was up on stands and i had the ebrake on and now its locked up, oh well that and easy one, just tomorow project. in the end i just say "who knows its a rotary" thanks everyone for their help, im sure you will have many more ?'s from me in the future. josh