Fuel Cut Issue T2 swap
 

I swapped out a t2 in a n/a. I got the T2 ecu, and the thing starts up, but the fuel is then cut. I have a racing beat fuel cut defensor on my BOOST SENSOR (not the pressure sensor in the T2). Must i install a pressure sensor for my engine to run? Can i simply rig the fuel pump to a switch? I would love a little guideance from someone who had this problem or knows the exact answer, or knows where i can find it.

Thanks Guys

take out the FCD and install the pressure sensor.. and as soon as its in failrly stock form start modding it from there.. I bought a FCD from Racing Beat awhile back and they sold me a new one that was broken.. It causes all sorts of problems..

I'm pretty sure that's a main part you need.

Remember the boost sensor went on a car that made a vacuum and ran at stock 14psi sea level pressure.

Now your going to a car which forces air in and hs a positive pressure.

will the fuel pump work if i hook it up to a switch?

If someone uphooks the pressure sensor in a stock T2, will the fuel pump shut off?

The boost/pressure sensor has nothing in the world to do with whether the fuel pump runs or not.

Explain exactly what you mean by *the fuel is cut*. I took it to mean that the engine started...but shut right off because the pump was not continuing to run. IF so, your problem lies in the afm not putting a ground on the Circuit Opening Relay (that relay determines if the pump runs or not).

So assuming I'm right, go to your right front strut tower, and look nearby, to the front and inboard for a two socket plug. Yellow in color. Maybe a black piece of shrink tubing over it/maybe not. Now turn the key to ON. Then get a piece of wire and jumper b/t the two sockets on that plug. You should hear a relay pull in and also hear the fuel running thru the fuel rail. Let us know what happened. You should not have to install a switch for the fuel pump.

You're correct, the car starts and then dies right after turning on. Then it takes a good 5 seconds to crank over. I'll check out the ground and let you know...do you have any pictures?

One other quick question...the driveshaft that mazdatrix has that is for a non-turbo with a turbo tranny, will that driveshaft work with a T2 engine in a N/a body with a turbo tranny?

It should work.
I plan on getting it soon.

I believe it is for TII trannies and NA rearends.
Kinda pricey but worth it since it is professionally made and I don't have to tow my car to a guy to measure and splice on together.

250 bucks from Mazdatrix. A drive shaft that fits a non-turbo cars rearend to the Turbo engine/transmission.

Or put another way....I put a turbo engine and transmission in my 87 n/a and called Mazdatrix and told them what I had and that I'd like a drive shaft to fit b/t the turbo transmission and the n/a rear end.. They said, yeah, 250 bucks please. It works.

i can't find the switch you are refering to. There is no yellow connector near my right front strut. I even looked underneath the trailing coil. I thought i found it, but when i connected the two ends, i blew the engine fuse, so that can't be right. Can you get me a picture? I'm in dire need of getting my car running!

There is only one right and only one left. When you sit in the car you sit where? On the left side of the car. When you sit in the passenger seat where do you sit. In the right side of the car.

The coils are located on the ..........left side of the car. The right strut tower is........on the right side of the car.

The YELLOW two socket plug (that might be covered with a black boot) is within six inches of the pressure/boost sensor (usually). Two prong. Yellow in color.

NOTE: It is not bolted to anything. It might be hidden just under the pressure sensor or hidden a touch by the afm, but it is there unless someone cut it off. All sevens(series four anyway) have this check connector.

Yeah i'm an idiot. I found the plug and jumped it. I heard fuel going through the lines. I tried to start it with the plug jumped and the engine did the same thing, it died after a couple of seconds. I am getting the pressure sensor next week. When it does not send the correct voltage, does the ecu kill the spark or the injectors? I am running out of ideas as to why my car is not running.

No, The car will start and run without the pressure sensor. It fails to a given pressure 29.9 in/hg and the car will start without it connected up.

I can't think of anything else right now. Heck. Disconnect it and see what happens(electrical plug).

Cars that start and then die seconds or less later.....seems its a lack of fuel or maybe one huge vacuum leak.Not those small puny vac lines...but something like the brake boosters vac line at the back of the throttle body on a turboii engine.

There is one really large connector that i had no idea where to put it. I think i can hear air being sucked in when the engine dies. It is on the far left side of the air switching valve (it is part of it). I don't know where it can go; there are no other plugs that large. Do you know where that goes? Again, a pic would be good, but if not, i know what's the left and right now. lol.

AIR SWITCHING VALVE??? What year car/engine are you working on?

Can you go look at the plug you are talking about and write back how many wires are in it and the color of the wires? Like Black/White, Blue/Yellow meaning a black wire with a white stripe and a blue wire with a yellow stripe.

Sorry, its late. Is this the air control valve on the right side of the engine? Like I say, it's late. For a moment I was going to suggest maybe the fuel lines were connected up backwards. Usually on a USA car the fuel line from the filter goes to the most forward hard line on the engine and the other line on the most aft hard line on the engien. I think Jap engines are arse backwards from that. And the car won't run if they were on backwards. Maybe for a moment at best. We've seen two cars on this site like that lately.

If it's a series four turbo....check that all four hose are connected up. There are two smaller lines. One going to the air supply valve on the back of the throttle body and the other to the Air Bypass Solenoid VAlve located just to the right of the intercooler and just above and aft of the bac.

Sounds like the engine wants to run. Either too much air or too much fuel/not enough fuel. Who knows/

AIR SWITCHING VALVE??? What year car/engine are you workin

I'm working on an '87 N/A with a T2 (JDM) swap. The air switching valve is the thing that is bolted to the right side of the lower intake manifold. I has a hose that goes to the air pump, and another goes to the piping from the turbo to the intercooler. There is one more large connector (for a hose) that is on the left side, and i don't know where it goes.http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...#39;, 500, 375

picture
 

I see now.....that's a Jap manifold so to speak. The series four American version does not that, what looks like an approx one inch opening to the left of the air control valve.

I can guess though......On a series four Am version, the air for the split air pipe comes from the same region as that open hole in the picture. Except the USA version uses a pipe that is attached with two ten mm nuts. That's just a guess. I'd get something to cap that off for right now. Maybe a piece of hose with a stopper in it.

If anyone is reading this and has a Japenese version manifold.......what and where does that approx one inch open hole shown in the two jpgs go to/come from?

Can you spare some extra pixels and take a picture of the intercooler from that side of the car (right). Maybe show how the hose connect to the intercooler? I'm not interested in a top view, just a view that would show the hose that feeds the intercooler from the turbo and the two small hose towards the rear of the intercooler (if indeed the Jpn version has those.

HEY! JAP version. Then it is possible the fuel hose are connected up backwards. They attach them opposite of the USA version. Wadda ya think, pilgrim?

i already had them backwards and i had to change them. The engine wouldn't even start when they were backwards and when i took off the hoses, it shot out a bunch of air with a bit of fuel, like air was pumped into it. I'll get you a picture of the intercooler when i get home today (11-25-03). Is it possible that this opening is causing a vacuum leak? You are suggesting maybe a hookup to the split air pipe; it is not that. I have an aftermaket exhaust and it came with a bloack off plate for that pipe. Like you said, it bolted on the side of the manifold. I'll try to find a plug for it...that's rather large. Thanks for the help...keep it coming...stupid JDM engines!

Pictures
 

Here are those pixels for you...