front eccentric shaft bolt, removal tips?
 

Any ideas on how to get this sucker off? I have an air impact gun that isn't touching it, I've tried heating it really how with my propane torch, tried my huge breaker bar (seems to break everything but the nut) ;)

I think I've tried everything short of grinding it off (done that b4)

What is the best way to brace the flywheel so that it doesn't turn. I don't wanna know how much the mazda tool to do it costs :)

its only $20:)

sounds pretty bad if an impact gun cant break it

Craftsman long breakover bar. Rest it against the left frame. Socket on nut. Turn key to start. Acts like an impact gun. Might take a couple of tymes.

What I did was set the egine on the ground, then put a breaker bar on the flywheel nut to brace it.. Used the impact gun and it came right off. :)

Did not know you had it out of the car. Eccentric shaft bolt you said. Front of engine. I use a piece of ten foot angle iron that has two holes drilled in it to match two holes on the flywheel. Stops the shaft very well. I use the same piece of angle iron for taking off the flywheel nut. For the flywheel not I use a three quarter inch breakover bar and socket and use a 20 lb sledge hammer to supply the shock to the breakover bar to remove the nut. Mazdatrix.com sells a stopper for pennies. Something like twenty three to twenty five bucks.http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

I use 1/2 inch air hose, IR Impact Gun and a 6 point 19 mm 1/2 inch socket, make sure is not a 12 point socket, @ times like this the 12 point will strip the bolt. The half inch air hose really packs the power behind the air gun. I went to the 1/2 inch hose especialy for this reason, this and the flywheel nut.

Re: front eccentric shaft bolt, removal tips?
 

Had the same problem myself just a week or so back. I got a snap on 3/4" impact gun, which I have seent his thing countersink lug nuts on wheels before and it wouldnt TOUCH that 19mm

Heres what you do, get a long iron prybar, and put ut through the back of the motor lock the flywheel against the flat part of it, and get a 5 foot breaker bar, and push hope you dont snap the socket I got lucky and it took the nut off... But they are a BITCH!

Well I got it off, I'll post a picture later of the bracing that I used to stop the flywheel. I used alot of heat too..

Now I have to wait for my brother to wake up so he can stand on the engine while I jump on the bar to get the rear nut off :)

Yep, tried that - 1st click on key did nothing except stall the starter. 2nd click on the key snapped my 1/2" to 3/8" adapter clean in two. Bolt didn't budge. Time to get a new oil pressure sender first instead.

Henrik
87TII

I'm having the exact same problem. I keep on trying to brace the engine on the pallet, but all I do is end up lifting it. I suppose I'll need to get my brother to stand on the motor while I jump on my wrench.
:)

Too lazy to read all this, but if its still in the car... Put the breaker bar with a pipe on the bolt and then turn the motor over by hand until the pipe touchs the frame. Then flick the starter on for a sec. Works great :)

Mine is out of the engine and I also have removed the flywheel already. My Impact gun won't even touch it any advice.

Reinstall the flywheel and make a flywheel stop so it won't rotate while you remove the front pulley bolt. The front pulley bolt SHOULD have been installed using locktite or something similar, so it'll be a bit tough to remove.

RESURRECTION!

If you can haul the entire engine around, find a diesel shop that has 1" impact tools.

If you cannot move the engine, try some of the local rental centers - they usually have 3/4" or 1" drive impact tools you can rent for a nominal fee - $20/day?



-Ted

The very first time I removed this bolt, I rented a 3/4 Bosch (that's the only brand they had) electrical impact tool; I honestly thought the bosch unit wasn't enough for this task...

Ohh boy was I wrong :bigthumb:

NEVER tork and tork on your impact. Even though it is called an impact it will beat the crap out of itself. If you hit it a couple of times with an impact and it does not come loose you need to move to a BREAK OVER bar. If it does not come of with a BREAK OVER bar then use the cheater pipe on your $20 break over. Still does not come off use a bigger cheater pipe. but save your impact it cost a little more doe rae me.

ALSO, go the other way a few times. In other words try to tighten the thing. Then go back to the other way. Working it back and forth is the best way to get the lock tight to let go.

If you don't care about the bolt and have a replacement or just buy a new one, well do what I do when I go to the junkyard. Get a chisel and small sledge hammer and chisel that sucker off. You can even do it to the large flywheel nut it will come off and you don't have to lock the flywheel to do so. I've never had a nut or bolt not come out when I've done this. Mind you I only do this when I'm at the junkyard in the garage I use a flatbar to lock the flywheel and use a breaker bar with a long cheater bar. For the rear I use the tool from RB which is like only $30 bucks. But the chisel and hammer have never failed, just be careful not to hammer your fingers hurts like hell, and yes I'm speaking from experience.

That's not true.

Agreed. That's how I got the flywheel nut & front pulley bolt off my scrap engine. I don't know how badly stuck it was, but I drove up with the engine in the back of my Subaru, showed 'em what needed to be removed, and they zipped it right off. They did it for free, and had some quality "WTF is THAT?" looks. I guess diesel shops don't see rotary engines very often.

-=Russ=-

You can tork on your impact all you like. You bought it.
A long cheater bar and a break over put more ft lbs on the bolt than do an impact. It just takes physical exertion, enough space and having the engine anchored down.

Waxa on, Waxa off, Danielson

Trust me, I understand torque... I'm an engineer. I can also spell TORQUE correctly.

I have dissassembled impact guns. I know how they work. I also know that holding them without them spinning does not damage them any more than normal usage... its how they work.

As for using an impact gun versus a "cheater bar": My largest impact gun develops over 1600 ft-lbs of torque. To develop a moment that large, it would take my full weight hanging off the end of a 12 foot bar, when the bar was exactly level (parallel to the ground). When using breaker bars and pipes, you get significant amounts of deflection, and when working on any bolts close to the ground, you won't be able to get the pipe parallel to the ground, and to get an equal amount of torque, will need to lengthen the total length of pipe, and then apply the force with the pipe at an angle, in order to account for the deflection on the end of the pipe.
So now you're hanging off the end of a 15-foot pipe... I am yet to see a breaker bar rated to anything close to 1600 ft-lbs. So, now, your breaker bar breaks, and you go fall to the ground. Now, your breaker abr is broken, you're hurt, and your nut still isn't loose... not to mention it took 15 feet of space just to set-up your ghetto bar.
Now then, the nut for the flywheel is only about a 1/2" thick... how do you press down on the nut to keep the socket from slipping off while hanging off the end of a 15-foot pole?

To go even further to my point... a breaker bar will not be affective at removing fasteners at 1600 ft-lbs of torque as a impact gun will be at 1600 ft-lbs of torque. See, impact guns also have the "impact" function, which physically applies blows to break any corrosion bonds between metal.

Impact guns are safer, more effective, and faster. You can buy guns that develop up to 8000 ft-lbs of torque, if you've got the money... just try to develop that with cheater pipes...
http://www.williamsform.com/Concrete...equipment.html


There you have the obvious difference between a person who knows what they're talking about, and someone who doesn't. In the future, if you don't know, don't speak.

Mine came off easy, engine on stand, impact gun, came off, no worries. I used a 1" impact gun and a 1/2" line.

i work as an auto technician and i 'tork' my impact guns all day long and they don't break... frozen wheel lug? hammer on it with an impact gun until the nut comes off or the stud snaps in half, i have never had an impact gun fail on me in 12+ years. knock on wood.

buy a decent impact gun and it won't self destruct.

by decent i mean $200+: Mac, Snap-on, Ingersoll Rand, Matco, etc etc etc are all decent makes.

as to the poster of this thread you have 2 options, 1 is rent a bigger gun and take the nut off or blow several sockets and round the head of the nut off or you can be more diligent with your torch, spray some rust penetrant onto the bolt and let it sit for about 20 minutes or so then heat it up for a good 10 minutes heating up both the bolt and the pulley then take a rag and hold the pulley or flywheel in place and hammer on it with the impact gun, be sure you are using the shortest fattest socket you can find and that the e-shaft is not moving if possible. lastly, be sure you have the highest air pressure from your air supply as possible feeding the impact gun, the more pressure you got the harder the impact gun will hit on that sucker.

hey, I had a 600 ft/lb impact gun. and it didnt take it off, best bet is to use map gas or propane gas and leave it on for like 5 mins. they put lock tite on the bolt so its not gunna budge easily.. after 5 mins the gun will spin it right off.

Yeah, use MAPP gas, propane doesn't do much. At one point, I was heating up the bolt for over 10 mins with propane and it didn't do anything.