front e-shaft bolt
 

year 87
model turbo II


is there a specific way to reinstall this bolt and spring assay? i pulled it in order to remove the front pulley so i could get the water pump off.

at the time i didn't realize that the 4 smaller bolts would let me get the pulley apart and get the water pump off.

you may have sealed your fate.
Post whether you actually pulled the Hub out.

hub? as in the pulley? yah i took that off.

i pulled the entire bolt/spring/plunger assy out and then pulled the pulley off the front of the engine

You'll have to determine if the front torrington bearing dropped.
Front Pulley / Thrust Bearings

yah im reading that now but i dont really follow everything.

can someone answer what misterstyx69 meant by hub?

heres the status, the engine has not been run but the bolt has been torqued down.


How do i determine if the washer has dropped? will the pulley just be misaligned at the front of the engine? i saw an article on aaroncake.net and it looked that that could be a giveaway. yes/no?


secondly, i think i understand how this all fits together. the whole assy behind the counterweight (not sure if the counterweight does this too) rides on that spacer not the e-shaft directly. so when you remove the bolt, if tension is not kept on that whole assy (counter weight and all parts inward to the engine) the spacer that it all rides on can slide forward letting the torrington bearing and ITS space that keeps it centered on the , slip between the bigger spacer that it all rides on, and the e-shaft shoulder.

if i dive into this and remove the front cover all together to get in there, how do i keep this from happening when i reassemble the car? i read on mazdatrix website to wedge the clutch pedal down to keep some tension on the e-shaft (it seems) but how will that keep it all from falling again while im reassembling everything?


can someone verify minimum parts list that i think i need? some of this is from mazdatrix

-front cover gasket & O-ring (depending on how i reassemble the front cover)
-oil pan gasket
-waterpump housing to engine gasket
-two torrington bearings (2 just in case)


since this hasnt been run or even turned over, i assume i shouldnt need any other parts like the thrust washer, thrust plate etc, just the bearing(s) that might be toast

Theres always this.

wouldnt let me copy and post.

So there, from the service manual. 1987 manual.

I pulled the hub out on accident when the engine was out of the car. I immediately reinstalled it and measured. If i recall correctly my gap was 0.074

you guys are saving my ass over and over again...


i pulled the bolt but not the pulley this time and measured the pulley prodtusion off of the e-shaft snub. it was between 1.89 and 2.04mm. i even got a reading in the 1.69 range but i think that might have been some dirt or something on the end of the caliper. the long and short is, im within the limits no matter how you look at it. not by much, but i am. im going to run with it and see what happens.


also i dont know how thick that torrington bearing really is, but id assume that it would force the pulley alignment to be off it was pinched in there. i presume it would force the crank pulley outward from the motor. frankly it looks like my e-shaft pulley is sunk in towards the motor more than anything when i checked the pulley alignment with the alt and other pulleys.

Was your. 074 in inches or mm?

inches.

After I posted that I thought it must me inches. There's no way you were measuring mm to that level of accuracy

It's been years since I had mine apart.... Honestly if it's already been tightened down again then you may have already messed it up. To reset the bearing and replace bent parts you need to pull the front cover which is a total pita. To prevent it from happening on reassembly you just have to be very careful and keep the clutch pressed down. As I recall once you know what you are looking for you can tell be using a mirror to look at it just prior to putting the pulley hub back on... Again it's been a while since I did this.

Also the spacers are specific to the engine so you'll need to know what size you need likely after taking the old ones out. You can measure end shaft play after it's back in the car but it's difficult. You'll need a runout dial indicator and a magnetic holder / clamp to hold the dial.

I'd be tempted to just take it apart and see if you got it wrong. If you did replace the parts with the same specs as you pulled out and you should be fine.