Can't be done. Only fits one way; wouldn't be able to even assemble the engine.

that cant be good...

btw... if it wasnt already clear, if you have to hold the gas to keep the car running... then there is no idle. which sounds like the OP was doing... unless i took what he said wrong.

Many moons ago, I had an Atkins rebuild installed (2-rotor N/A). The mechanic (very experienced) could not get it started. He checked for vacuum leaks. There were none. Atkins advised trying a little ATF in the combustion chambers. Still no start. Finally, he put 90w gearlube in there, and it started.

I recently had similar problems, mine may have been caused by something different though.

Have you verified oil pressure? I forgot to key my oil pump shaft (stupid)
Fixed it, and when I got it started it wouldn't idle below 3k. I loosened the oil filter, verified oil flow, and decided to keep at it.

I had to hold the idle at 3k for about 5 minutes, then slowly worked it down. I got the idle down to 2k after another couple of minutes.

After about 10 minutes of idling I could get it to sit at 1k, but it was still very weak.

If you built it with used housings your going to have super low compression, and need to let the seals bed in. Keep an eye on temp and oil pressure and keep it going.

:lol yeah prob that :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Prime it first. If it doesn't work remove two bottom plugs, put some ATF or Oil in it. Re-install plugs and wire. Fire it up dude.