fresh rebuild, but still wont start... part II
 

hey guys, i posted awhile back under the name hurleyboi514, but i cant use that account anymore for some reason. anyways, i was having problems getting my car to start after rebuilding it. i had no fuel press, or oil press. i now have both. i got a new pump and the air out of my oil line. well, it still wont start. ive checked spark, ive got it, to the end of my wires. ive checked the coil, its good. ive looked all over for any vaccum leaks, cant find any. i removed my air pump, so i got rid of most of the lines anyways, and blocked them up. lets see, i know ive got fuel b/c it keeps flooding over and over. it seems to be either timing (which i am clueless about) or something else. another idea was an ECU error. ive checked to make sure all my sensors are in. after trying to start the car for an afternoon i found the tps unplugged, but that didnt fix it. so, im completely out of ideas and im ready to beat my beautiful car w/ a bat. (well, mayne not! :)) can anyone help me out? everyone ive talked to thinks its timing since ive got fuel spark and air. thanks in advance...

Put a little oil in the spark plug holes, this will make it so the apex seals will sea a little better. Any ways sounds like you have everything else, fuel, spark, and air. So compression is all that is needed to complete it. Any ways try that and see if it helps. Also keep us updated. does it even sputter or pop? Make sure it has good plugs though too. make sure all your injectors are plugged in too.

CJG

Make sure that your fuel lines are not crossed. I had done that in the past...stupid mistake...chk it!:D

look into the thread on timing ...

Buy two cans of Starter Fluid. Go to the rear of your car and disconnect the plug for the fuel pump. Spray into the intake duct (snorkel if you will) and get in the car and start the car. IF it showed signs of starting like going varoom for maybe two seconds, then repeat the spraying a couple more times. Then put the fuel pump plug back on and start the car. IF you got NO VAROOM after spraying, but SOME signs of the engine trying to kick over, then stop and read this THREAD BY C.LUGWIG https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=29978 . It gives a detailed method of making sure the timing is close if not spot on. Definetly good enought to start a car. Prior to any of the above, do what ROTOTUNER said and try your level best to get some oil injected into the rotors. They are most likely washed free of any oil by being flooded and that in turn means the compression is going to be a lot lower than normal which means the car is going to be harder to start even if everything else is pretty much spot on.

i read C.Ludwigs post, and its really helpful, but i need to know what to line up that dimple w/. it said the tab on the CAS, but i dont know what tab they are talking about? thats all i need to know, and i should be running soon!

i think it's like a fin on the outside of the CAS. looks like its just some reinforcement on the case, if i remember correctly. anyone care to make a more descriptive definition?

Hold the cas in your hand. Look at the bottom. The gear on the bottom that turns- IT has a single dimple on it, approx half way between the two ends of the roll pin. Now that dimple that is on the rotating gear, has to align with a fixed spot on the non-rotating body of the cas. That fixed point is just a raised piece on the fixed body and is about 1/4 inch tall and 1/8th inch wide. Go to this site http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm and look at FUEL AND EMISSIONS NON TURBO section, and I think page 4a-52 or there abouts. Shows a cas and the aligning marks.

Make sure the distributer thingy is plugged in. I forgot to do that once, and drained my battery. So I pushed the car out of the driveway to jump it off my truck. To make a long story short, I wasnt strong enough to push the car back in the driveway because it kept getting stuck in a pothole in the curb, plus the drivway is on an incline.

Check your MAF, When I did my rebuild, I made big mistake and unplugged it wrong way.. Well I plugged in back in wrong too missing a conection, and spent 1 full day trying to find out why car wouldn't start!!! It would turn over fine, sputter now and then... Had spark gas, everything! just wouldn't start with good compression too.. Well I found the missing connection and plugged it in and BAM ....

MAF has sensitive stuff in it though so be careful if you need to open it, expensive metal box....

similair Problem first
 

I can't seem to get my rebuild to start either.

the funny thing is that I also don't seem to have it grounded correctly because at first it was slow to start. I grounded it to the engine block and now it the starter cranks faster, but the wire heats up

????