FC Front Hub Cut for Race Removal
 

I disassembled my front hub but still have to remove the races. In the picture I have a red triangle pointing at where I think I need to cut. Is this right? Any tips on how to cut in that location?

I cant really tell from the Mazdatrix FAQ because the pictures are so tiny.

Also, any grease recommendations for bearing install?

You need to make two notches. One notch needs to go where your red arrow is pointing and the other notch needs to be 180* from that. Then, you can use a punch and hammer to knock the races out.

May I ask why you are replacing the bearings?

The reason I ask, is because from my experience (even on OLD bearings) You can bring them back to life with a good re-packing of grease and proper torque on the nut. I just recently had to pull both front bearings on my car (182K miles) and a good repack and torque on the nut fixed her right up. Cant go crazy on the torque, just use a small ratchet with the appropriate socket and just snug it down slightly. Put the wheel back on and spin spin spin. Take the wheel back off and snug it slightly more. More spin spin spin of the wheel and you should be good.

If the above paragraph doesn't work, for example lots of resistance while spinning the wheel (the brakes will create some resistance naturally) or more resistance on one front wheel compared to the other front wheel, the bearing is toast. IF the bearing is toast, make sure it hasn't toasted the spindle.

I'm in the middle of tackling this as well in my case I couldn't get the bearing tight no matter how much torque I put on the nut, the hub would be loose when I got back from the first drive. Oh well, got new bearings/ races from rock auto for $35.

I am interested in grease recommendations as well...

Nothing special really. The Coastal wheel bearing grease at any parts store will work. General rule of thumb, if it smells like sulphur piss, it's good bearing grease.

I like the method where you put the hub and race together into an oven to get the race loose, then tap the hub to get the race out. Not sure if OP knows, but AL expands more than Steel (when heating), and contracts more (when cooling). When putting the new race on, put it in the freezer for a few hours, and warm up the hub a little in the oven.

Worth a try. Worked for me the only time I needed it to work.

There's also the tack weld method (I believe Aaron describes this somewhere).

Thanks for the good info! I bought a used hub off e-bay just to try and build a hub. I plan to remove the hub on the car and re-do the bearings. No issue but I figure 210K+ miles it deserves new bearings. The hub I got off e-bay looked good and tight but after removing the bearings the inner race was really scored. I figure my car is the same since I never did anything to front bearings.

How hot did you heat the hub?

Spartan, I think I read your thread earlier regarding you not being able to tighten. That kinda concerns me but we'll see if I run into the same problem.

I have Mobile 1 grease I used for my tie-rods but notice alot of liquid. I was looking for a grease that wont run.

Yes you are right with the triangle. As stated make another one 180 degrees apart. I made a channel in the aluminium from the outer race down to the inner race. Works like a charm for knocking out the races.

I used Redline wheel bearing grease and I really like it. I have done 2 sets of hubs so far with it. I used a Lisle bearing packer to pack the new bearings and it made life really easy. You will use most of the tub of grease loading the packer, so make sure you have enough grease when you start the job.


You could probably heat the hub to 250-300 degrees in the oven. The races may fall out with a good whack on some wood I have never tried it that way, but it should work if it is up the the right temp. I always try to freeze the races though. It makes them easier to press in.

Also, a pro tip for the inner seals - Just press them in until they are flush with the back of the hub. Don't press them down to the bearing race, or they wont seal on the spindle properly.

The FSM has a multi step procedure. I don't remember the numbers exactly so wont talk out of my ass. Basicall IIRC it's roughly:
1. Tighten nut to x ft-lb
2. Spin wheel a few turns.
3. Loosen nut to finger tight.
4. Use a pull scale on a stud at 90° (i use a luggage scale) to see how much force it takes to just start to spin the hub.
5. Tigthen hub nut till it takes the force in step 4 plus y lbs.

If you have bearing play after doing that, something is worn (hub or bearing). I tightened a shitload more on a worn bearing just to see (no driving), and it still had play.

no need to make a notch in the hub to bang out the old bearing

just grab the mig welder and stitch a weld around the inside face of the race
.. it will shrink and basically fall out

if it does not. then do a second stitch on top of the other to reduce the inside diameter
and then you can sit a spacer on the backside to allow purchase with a press dolly

works a treat


same technique is also good on those late 90's subarus that are such a pain in the arse to do the wheel bearings on

ps
as for grease, any lithium wheel bearing grease has always been fine for these cars
( a GC designated code means the grease is wheel bearing compatible )

i like stuff with added moly
( though high concentrations of moly can be frowned on in some high speed roller bearing applications, wheel bearings are a relatively low speed application , i havent seen a slip issue yet with up to 3% moly )

there is more modern and expensive urea based greases, but our old cars where designed around the lithium stuff

both will work. just dont mix them

I've had good luck with the propane torch heating method. They just fell right out.

I tried the easiest first: I put the hub in the oven at 250F for about 30 minutes and then using wood block and dead blow hammer hit it but races didn't budge. I was hoping for easy. This weekend I'll try either the torch or Dremel.

Try more heat, maybe 400 or even 500.. just make sure they are clean :)

I do like the slots because it allows you to change them anywhere if you had to in the future.

I got mine out last night with a torch and about 15 minutes. The outers fell out, I had to hit the inners with a punch (no notch though).

My procedure is slightly different, but that will work.

I think a lot of people go through the trouble of replacing bearings when a good repack of grease will fix it.

Thanks for the tips. I had my Probe alternator die today so unfortunately I'll have to set the hub aside right now. I'll never get another front wheel drive car like the Probe again!

I'll try the hub in higher heat in oven or maybe torch once I finish the Probe.

Thx

set probe on fire- use fire to heat hubs= win/win

The races should loosen around 375-400 deg F. Just set your oven to 425 and wait till you hear them drop. LOF is right, get rid of the grease or you'll be smelling it in your cookies. I tried a toaster oven, but couldn't get the races hot enough so had to use the wall oven.

You can use heat to install them also, but it's definitely easier to just press the races in.

Freeze the races first.
It's just the reverse of removal...heat expands metal, cold shrinks it.

True dat. The problem being that it's 'harder' to get the same dT on the cold side as you can get going hot.

If room temp is 80F, getting to 350F gives you a delta temp of 270F. Achieving the same dT cold means chilling to -190F, which essentially means using LN2, since dry ice only gets you to -100F on a good day...cooling helps, but heating is simply more practical.

Make sure your mom or family don't get mad at you for using the home oven!

we tack welded a piece of steel and banged it right out

You guys are brilliant! Toaster oven at 450F for about 30 minutes and they came right out no fuss. This forum is fantastic for quick excellent advice compared to other car forums. Thanks!

c-c-c-combo!

heh,heh..
Around my house the Wheel Hub would probably be the best edible thing that ever came out of the oven!
Really,..how can you burn salad??