FC Electrical Fun!
 

Grrr this car is slowly driving me crazy with all of the electrical issues lol
I was driving home from work the other day, hit a rather sizeable pothole, which jarred the car pretty good, and then all of a sudden my heater fan, cigarette lighter, and stereo shut off. The heater controls still get power though, as the lights on it still light up when you select defog/lower vents/dash vents etc. I have my head unit and the top front part of my dash (where the defog vents are located under the windshield) removed right now, trying to see if I can find out where the loose connection or bad ground is, but I can't seem to find anything? My fuses are all fine, does anybody have any idea which connection could be loose to be causing this? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.

Cam

EDIT: It also seems to be doing this since I swapped in a different idiot gauge cluster, could this have anything to do with it?

blown fuse, but could also be a bad ignition switch (odds go up if you have a lot of keys or junk on your car keys)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=117871

and fuse boxes and locations are listed in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this section

and yes the problem could be influenced by the incorrect series clock/warning panel being used.

Looking at the back of the clock warning panel, there will be a FB02 or FB04 if it is the correct series for a 86.

If it says FC01 or FC02 or FC04 of FC 06 or FC anything then it will be the wrong clock warning panel, and it wires differently.

It wires so different that it could be the root of your issue

Both of the warning light clusters I have are FB02's. So that's not it. All of my fuses are good, so that's not it. I checked my ignition switch and all of the wires are correctly connected so that's not it either. What else do you think it could be?

how did you test your fuses and the ignition switch???

Do you have power on the two power wires at the radio and at the blower???

and your bump has been deleted. Bumps are forbidden in the 2nd gen techincal section

I tested the fuses by pulling each of them to see if they were blown, I tested the ignition switch with a multimeter, finding out that there is no power at the IGN 2 (BLK-Red), I have power on the two wires at the radio, and I'm not sure where the power wires for the blower are located, so if you could let me know, then I could check those as well.
Thanx

The ignition 2 is needed for the heater/air condition to work.

And sometimes on those ATC fuses, you can't tell if they are blown by just looking at them. You should check those with a meter as well.

So how do I regain power to my IGN 2? Replace a fuse?

Replace the switch... the fuse is the main fuse in the car, and if you are getting ignition 1 then the main fuse is fine.

Do I have to replace this whole thing? : http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51...6/P1000379.jpg

Also, I unplugged the IGN 2 wire from where it plugs onto the next wire (BLK/GRN) and measured that wire with the multimeter and still nothing. So does that mean my ignition switch is not the problem?

BTW I am getting power to both wires on my head unit, why wont it power up?

Huh???

If the wire coming out of the switch, does not have power when the switch is on, the switch is bad...

Pretty cut and dry...

well as long as you have your meter set up to test it and the meter is in good working condition

what wires??? There is a constant and a switched ACC wire that have power when the key is in the ACC position.

Then if you have an aftermarket radio there will be a ground wire... where do you have that hooked up.

Are you sure you have power??? and on the blue wire at the ignition switch when the key is in the ACC or ON positions?

Sorry I totally need to clarify my last post lol OK...SOO what I was trying to say is, if I tested the female end of the blk/green wire which then connects to the male end of the blk/red wire (IGN 2) which connects to the switch, and there is no power from the blk/green wire, then is it possible that the problem is further in than the ignition switch? Or does that blk/green wire require the ignition to be switched to IGN2 to draw any current?

And I also apologize for not clarifying which wires to my headunit, yes I meant the constant and switched ACC, and I have the ground hooked up to the bolt that holds down the plate covering the shifter hole.

And yes I have power to the blue wire at the ignition switch when the key is in the ACC and ON position.

This help at all?

After checking the power to my head unit again today, I am not getting power to my 12V+ (LTBlue/Red) Wire

Alright, so I replaced my ignition switch today with another one I had lying around, and my problem persists. I still am not getting any power to the Blk/Red wire (IGN2) at the ignition switch. Do any of you electrical gurus have an idea what it might be?

How are you testing??? I doubt you have two bad switches.

I'm testing by using a multimeter, touching the positive point of the multimeter to each point on the ignition switch where a wire for a particular function (ie. ACC, IGN1, IGN2, ON etc) is connected to.

are all the wires plugged in???

See if the white is hot, then the black/red should be hot any time the key is in the ON position, but not in the OFF, ACC, or START positions.

So if you have your meter set to 20 volts (or 50 volts- anything above 15 volts) and you ground the negitive lead of your meter, and put the positive lead onto the black/red there should be +12 volts if the key is in the ON position.

lol yes all of the wires are plugged in.

The white is indeed hot, however, the black/red is not hot in the on position. The only time any current runs through the black/red at all is when the engine is being cranked :confused: