Fan Clutch
 

Ok im sorry for making a new thread but it seemed some of you were ignoring my other thread because it says flushing out radiator but I asked a question and I want to know it that doesnt really pertain to flushing out the rad. I want to be sure before I go and spend money. If my car has been on for around 10 minutes and I turn it off shouldnt the fan clutch be HARD to turn? I mean I turned it easily and I remembered reading somewhere that it has to be hard and once its easy the bearing in it is messed up....is this correct? Should I buy a new fanclutch or juss go for a good e-fan? And can I get some links on good e-fans? Also for the readiator cap....is 13lbs of pressure good enough or should I get an even better one?

---- My write-up on the fan clutch:
The fan clutch uses a silicon oil viscous fluid in two chambers inside.
The Bi-metal strip on the front bends outward as it warms and opens the valve from the reservoir side to the clutch side.
Centripetal force provides the pumping action to move the fluid.
When it sits for a few hours, it will spin the fan briefly on startup, then freewheel.
After 100,000 miles the bearing seals inside wear, and the bearing lube starts to weaken the clutch fluid's grip.
Both the S4 & S5 clutch freewheel when cold.
The s4 clutch increases it's bite gradually with temperature rise.
The s5 clutch is more on-off. (It just coasts until is gets warm)
Once they are warm, the fan speed goes up with engine speed to about 4000 RPM.
As the engine revs higher the fan stays at ~4K.
If your warmed up fan only revs up to ~2500 RPM, it's bad.

ehhh Im sorry Im an idiot...can you say that in simpler terms? or can someone else explain it?

Basically, once the motor is warmed up, you should have a good amount of air being moved by the fan. If not, the fan is toast.