Emissions Test Failure
 

I am bummed. I bought a "00 conv 3 years ago w/65k. It ran great, like new. I have driven it only in the summers, and it now has 86k. I am the 2nd owner. It still seems to run well, and I love drivin this thing. (I put it away in the winters in a heated garage, and cover it.) I recently failed the IL air test for the first time, and they told me that the carbon emssions were too hi, and that there was unburned fuel going through the exhaust. At first, I thought it was the piece of junk car in line ahead of me that threw off the machine.

Then I took the car to the local Mazda dealer for testing. They told me that the engine was losing compression, worse in the rear rotor than the front. They advised that there was unburned fuel going through the exhaust, killing the converters. They said that I could have a rebuilt engine dropped in, and would need new converters, all for the tidy sum of $9000. This is really hard for me to believe. I just ran the car on a weekend trip, cruising with 3 Vettes at about 90 with no problem. The car seemed to run fine, and I just can't believe it's dying.

I'm not really sure how this happened, or if it's a common thing. I've been very careful with the car, the oil changes, etc. I know I don't have to drop $9k to get something done, but I'm not sure what options I have. Do I sell it as is, do I fix it, do I have someone else look at it?? Is there someone in the Chicago area who is really good with 2nd gens? Any ideas?

i think the mazda dealer is full of shit....you could rebuild, street port upgrade almost everything on the engine for 9k!!!!

i would get a second opinon or better yet get a compresson test done by someone that you can trust...if all is normal then you should replace the spark plugs that might do the trick

More than likely the original equipment main catalytic converter is toast. Aftermarket, those are from $50 to $150 depending on where you buy it. You may want to consider changing the O2 sensor at the same time. If you do the work yourself, it should be under $100. An independant shop should be able to do it for under $250.

Having never seen the car, this is just a wag, but it sounds like the dealer may be less than honest in assessing the problem.

the dealer is full of shit, a new aftermarket cat as mentioned above + plugs, wires and 02 sensor can be had for less than 300 dollars installed by a good independant shop. For a little extra insurance put some denatured alcohol in the tank before getting the smog check search this forum for the proper procedure with doing this. When the car passes smog call the BBB on the dealer.
The other thing which should be tested again by a good independant shop is the air injection system.

When I went through the emmission testing gauntlet last year I was told by several places that my catalytic converter was fine, but the engine was bad. I verified everything on my emission system; EVERYTHING because I was told repeatedly that the cat was good.

I finally went to Rotary Performance in Dallas. They told me that most aftermarket cats are only good for a year or two max, then they burn out. Even the Bonez cat is only good for about 4 years. Rotaries are hard on cats. I bought a new aftermarket cat installed it and passed with ease. I stored the cat in my garage for later use. I am scheduled to test again before the end of September. I will put to cat back on prior to testing. I expect to easily pass again.

Here is the thread detailing my testing saga. It contains some pdf files with the test results for various stages of my adventure. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/emission-testing-texas-style-465422/

Bottom line is that your car is probably just fine. You need a new cat. Put one on and tune up the car. You will pass easily if the car is in good repair.

Get a new cat. The majority of stock cars that fail emmisions need a new cat with an airpump delivering air to it.

Throw a new cat on there and go back and test again. Make sure you drive the car around a bit first so you get the cat nice an hot. The nice thing about IL tests is they are free!! No lame $20 fee for every test.

*edit*
Oh yeah and what the heck do you mean by this?
2000 convertable? I don't think so...

Maybe he meant '90. That would make sense.

To the OP: It's possible your engine is getting tired. It's possible the dealer's trying to fleece you.

The FAQ has a handy guide for fixing emissions problems. Start there. Also, get a compression test. Rotary Resurrection has a write-up on how to do a compression test in the tech section. Using a $20 Walmart special, you should be looking for ~90 PSI all around on both rotors.

There is virtually no chance that the dealer knows what they are doing. They test the cat by hitting it with an infra red thermometer and se a rediculous temprature and think well the cat has to be doing something. Ignoring the fact that the rotary exhaust is hotter than any other cars exhaust.

I had a smog tech at a shop do this as part of a pre test, he came back and said, well your cat seems to be working fine, its nice and hot. He was hitting the first pre-muffler with the thermometer.

Yes, I did intend to say that it was a '90 conv.

The dealer told me that they did a compression test, and they did mention the numbers to me, but they didn't give them to me in writing. I have since requested a call back with those numbers.

If I am losing compression in the rotors, would I be seeing any effect on the oil pressure? The gauge has historically been at 30PSI at idle, and at 60PSI while running. Those numbers continue to be about the same.

Since my weekend trip, I have also recently had some "add coolant" alarms, which has never happened before. I did add some coolant, but it really didn't take more than about 10 oz to bring it up to full. I have had some intermittent alarms since then, but the alarm shuts off if I move the vehicle at all.

Thanks for all the input.

i have a 90 conv. that i just swaped over to turbo. the reason for the swap was because the n/a was shot... same problems your having,... low compression, then the add fluid light would start to come on every now and then... seldom at first, but then more frequent and then finally all the time. eventually it just didnt have any power left and liked to die out. from what i heard, when the rotorys start to lose compression they start overheating and cant hold the coolant... thats what mine was doing... hope you dont have the same problem. good luck, i'd have the compression checked by a few more people.

you should just move to arkansas.....no vehicle inspections almost 10 years and counting

Losing compression and can't hold coolant sounds a whole lot like a blown coolant seal. There's a nice write-up in the FAQs and in the archives I think regarding what needs to be replaced in the event of High this, low that, etc.