electrical issues help please
 

Anyone else have problems with their rear defrost? only having 1 speed on wipers or coolant buzzer staying on even when it's unplugged? My idiot cluster also sometimes the clock will come on but then it will dim way out until it doesn't work anymore.

anyone else had this many problems with interior electrical?

I have swapped my gauge face cluster with all knobs/buttons but only a few of them work after installiation. everything worked when same cluster was in my parts car.

Most electrical Gremlins sit behind the steering wheel...

Rear defrost = probably unplugged

Wiper one speed = covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found both in the new member technical section and at the top of this section.

Coolant buzzer needs to be plugged in to work. Unplugged will guarantee that it will set the buzzer off. The sensor works by detection ground through the coolant. If it does not get ground through the coolant it triggers the warnings. Check your coolant level in the radiator (not the overflow tank) and hook the sensor back up.

Clock/idiot lights= panel needs to be re-soldered.

Gauges need the same harness as the car- can't swap series without re-wiring. If the series is correct, then the screws are probably corroded on the back of the gauges. Remove them, clean them, re-install them with some conductive grease.

oh ok, thanks alot for the clarifacation on that stuff. another question i have is about TBs and how much of a difference between a stock TB and modded with secondary butterflies removed, which will run most efficient? Right now my car likes to bog down starting from a stop like i'm getting too much fuel or air or combination of both. would swapping back to stock TB change that?

Turbo or non turbo?

If the motor is warm:
Non turbo=no change and a waste of time.
Turbo= quicker throttle response, but that is all... no HP increase or efficiency increase.

Remember the 2ndary set really is only when coolant is under 120F... and the minor difference of air flow is often not enough to justify this on any engine making less than 200 HP.

ok that makes sense and yeah it's a turbo.

there is one other thing that i'm still unclear how it works. the twin scroll actuator that mounts on bottom of turbo and has the flapper arm that is in exhaust manifold.

with twin scroll removed and flapper arm still there what is the effect of preformance versus it being on and being controlled like it's supposed to be?

with it removed does that flapper get pushed closed from boost or does it end up getting stuck open and cause boost problems? With it on does it make turbo spool up slower/faster?