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electric water pump
to do or not to do?? also where can i get a good water pump, new, for not alot of $$$$...and where can i find out abut an elctric water pump and its benefits....
CB |
Talk to scathart here on the forum. He has one on his heavily modded TII, and he loves it.
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Meziere has a remote electric water pump that they claim to be streetable.  You'll still need the 13B adapter blocks and the AN hoses for connecting between the 13B adapter to remote water pump.  We're talking about -16AN hose which is big MONEY.  The water pump itself is around $300.  I think the adapter block is at least another $100.  The lines are going to cost you at least $200.
The electric water pump has not, IMO, been proven reliable for daily driving.  There is a reason why you don't see too many of these systems running around.  I do NOT recommend doing this with the stock alternator - the water pump pulls some serious current, and the stock alternator cannot even handle the stock electrical loads.  That just added around $200 - $400 for an upgrade alternator.  So in the end, you're looking at a $1,000 "system"; I think you're getting in way over your head... -Ted |
ok where to get stock replacement water pump??
CB |
RETed or otherwise...
Originally posted by RETed Meziere has a remote electric water pump that they claim to be streetable.  You'll still need the 13B adapter blocks and the AN hoses for connecting between the 13B adapter to remote water pump.  We're talking about -16AN hose which is big MONEY.  The water pump itself is around $300.  I think the adapter block is at least another $100.  The lines are going to cost you at least $200. The electric water pump has not, IMO, been proven reliable for daily driving.  There is a reason why you don't see too many of these systems running around.  I do NOT recommend doing this with the stock alternator - the water pump pulls some serious current, and the stock alternator cannot even handle the stock electrical loads.  That just added around $200 - $400 for an upgrade alternator.  So in the end, you're looking at a $1,000 "system"; I think you're getting in way over your head... -Ted There is absolutely no performace gain, and my set up required HUGE levels of fabrication. Only benefit is no cavitatation at high rpms and better coolant circulation at idle, during hot summer city driving. I am VERY happy with my setup, yes, but by no means recommend it. I have a question Ted, if I were to wire the pump to come on at 180-190 degrees or so, I could eliminate the thermostat, right? I mean, no coolant circulates until the temp reaches that any way. Only potential problems I can see would be related to pressure, but I could just use a small restrictor in thwe place of the thermostat. Any thoughts? |
Re: RETed or otherwise...
Originally posted by scathcart I have a question Ted, if I were to wire the pump to come on at 180-190 degrees or so, I could eliminate the thermostat, right? I mean, no coolant circulates until the temp reaches that any way. Only potential problems I can see would be related to pressure, but I could just use a small restrictor in thwe place of the thermostat. Any thoughts? What scares me is that the heating of the coolant would be localized until everything started circulating.  Unless you going to count on convection to circulate the coolant by itself?  Too bad you couldn't run the electric water pump at a lower flow rate and ramp up the flow rate when it comes up to temp... -Ted |
ok where to get stock replacement water pump??
CB |
You can walk into any local auto parts store and ask them for one...
-Ted |
Re: Re: RETed or otherwise...
Originally posted by RETed Interesting...you got a good point... What scares me is that the heating of the coolant would be localized until everything started circulating.  Unless you going to count on convection to circulate the coolant by itself?  Too bad you couldn't run the electric water pump at a lower flow rate and ramp up the flow rate when it comes up to temp... -Ted |
Re: Re: Re: RETed or otherwise...
Originally posted by Scott 89t2 ya I don't think that would work too well. where would you take readigns from? without the water moving. by the time one area hit 180, another could already be boiling. not moing the water would increase chances of detonation by alot I'd think. When you think about it, it is not that much different than a thermostat system. Until the thermostat opens, no real coolant flows. Only difference is the water would be pressurized by the thermostat when the thermostat was closed. Really, it would be possible to design a small circuit to pickup temperatures and increase both pump and fan voltage from there. I'll have to think on that, open up some books.... you could also wire in two temp snsors, but that's a little retarded. |
Actually, if you really stare at the water pump housing, there is a bypass passage thats runs parallel with the thermostat passage.  If the thermostat was the only bottleneck, then the water pump would end up churning the coolant and going no where - not a good thing.
-Ted |
Originally posted by scathcart When you think about it, it is not that much different than a thermostat system. Until the thermostat opens, no real coolant flows. I agree with your theory that zero flow would result in localised boiling. The coolant would have to be continually flowing to equalise it's temp. |
Ever thought of running the pump along with an e-fan after you turn the car off for a few minutes to cool the engine down faster and reduce heat soak?
Not that it's a real problem...is there any benefit to doing something like this? Can you supply a lower voltage to the pump to spin it slower? -Tesla |
That is how my car is wired.... I know I am playing with death and my battery my go dead... but its time for a new battery anyway. Besides, I always carry jumper cables...
Pump and fan shuts down when coolant reaches 170 degrees. |
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