Electric vs stock fan. Which is better?
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Electric vs stock fan. Which is better?
O I am trying to decide to go to an electric fan or stock fan on my 88 rx7. Is there any noticeable difference between the two cooling wise?
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I hate electric fans.
You lose the "tool tray" on the car.Otherwise known as the stock rad shroud.
For this solution you get a Electric fan with shroud(like a Merc Villager fan),a new alternator and a corsport front rad panel.
You lose the "tool tray" on the car.Otherwise known as the stock rad shroud.
For this solution you get a Electric fan with shroud(like a Merc Villager fan),a new alternator and a corsport front rad panel.
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It's really personal preference. The biggest pro for an electric fan is a cleaner looking engine bay/easier access to the engine.
If going electric I believe it's said you want something that flows atleast 2800 cfm or better.
Do some research on it.
If going electric I believe it's said you want something that flows atleast 2800 cfm or better.
Do some research on it.
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If you go electric,then try to simplify things and get a fan setup that will pretty well fit the Rad and you do not have to make any shrouding for it.
I opted for the Merc Villager fan and you just cut a small piece and Bob is your uncle.Installed with some L brackets.
A Fiero Fan(V6) is good and also the Taurus Efan or Lincoln I have heard is good too.
BUT there is nothing wrong with a Good Operational Stock Fan,so really it is your decision on what you do.
The Efan cleans up the engine bay a bit,that is about it.Makes things a little more visible.
I opted for the Merc Villager fan and you just cut a small piece and Bob is your uncle.Installed with some L brackets.
A Fiero Fan(V6) is good and also the Taurus Efan or Lincoln I have heard is good too.
BUT there is nothing wrong with a Good Operational Stock Fan,so really it is your decision on what you do.
The Efan cleans up the engine bay a bit,that is about it.Makes things a little more visible.
#10
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Switching to an efan left a giant gaping hole in front of my engine, space that I've filled with, ahh...well, nothing.
So far unmentioned, the best and most useful attribute of the electric fan is the ability to accurately control its operation.
The stock fan is a dumb, brute force solution to providing airflow, it has only the most general idea of what the coolant is actually doing.
A well set up fan control circuit will respond much more quickly and effectively to temp variation than the thermoclutch ever could.
After five years of efan operation I'm also prepared to say that you DO get a net horsepower gain using an efan...the whole "Increased draw on the alternator offsets the mechanical drag of the thermofan" argument is bullshit because it ignores the fact that the efan is hardly ever on.
There is always parasitic drag from the thermoclutch, it never disengages and free spins. The efan is only on for brief periods under normal circumstances.
Last summer I took a road trip and during the entire 3300 miles the fan came on twice, for a total of less than 15 minutes.
During the winter, as long as ambient is under @50°, even city driving doesn't trigger the fan. I check mine periodically just to make sure it still works because I don't think it has triggered on in months.
The FC is my only car and a daily driver, BTW.
I would ignore the "extra room" and "extra power" arguments as mere distractions, the real reason to use an efan is the more precise control it gives you over the cooling system, a critical component in the rotary package.
It is worth noting that even Aaron Cake, author of the cited "Myth" article, uses electric fans on his projects.
So there.
Mazdatrix lists it for $246, Rock Auto doesn't list it at all.
#11
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stock fan for stock car cant be beat, for modified car it cant be beat
control what? the thermostat controls the temperature the fan just keeps it in check
a properly operating stock set up is very hard to beat and keeps the car running very cool even on hot days , in traffic with the AC going I rarely seen 190 degrees
control what? the thermostat controls the temperature the fan just keeps it in check
a properly operating stock set up is very hard to beat and keeps the car running very cool even on hot days , in traffic with the AC going I rarely seen 190 degrees
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After five years of efan operation I'm also prepared to say that you DO get a net horsepower gain using an efan...the whole "Increased draw on the alternator offsets the mechanical drag of the thermofan" argument is bullshit because it ignores the fact that the efan is hardly ever on.
There is always parasitic drag from the thermoclutch, it never disengages and free spins. The efan is only on for brief periods under normal circumstances.
There is always parasitic drag from the thermoclutch, it never disengages and free spins. The efan is only on for brief periods under normal circumstances.
The clutch fan is only creating any significant load when the temperature dictates, just like the e-fan.
Last summer I took a road trip and during the entire 3300 miles the fan came on twice, for a total of less than 15 minutes.
During the winter, as long as ambient is under @50°, even city driving doesn't trigger the fan. I check mine periodically just to make sure it still works because I don't think it has triggered on in months.
The FC is my only car and a daily driver, BTW.
During the winter, as long as ambient is under @50°, even city driving doesn't trigger the fan. I check mine periodically just to make sure it still works because I don't think it has triggered on in months.
The FC is my only car and a daily driver, BTW.
It is worth noting that even Aaron Cake, author of the cited "Myth" article, uses electric fans on his projects.
So there.
So there.
Also note that I tried for a year to use a SPAL FAN-PWM to bring the gradual clutch-fan behavior to my on-off e-fan. Ultimately I gave up because the SPAL FAN-PWM sucks rancid donkey *****. But on my Cosmo, I used two smaller e-fans and have them programmed in stages to provide more linear temperature control vs. on-off. E-fans were used on the Cosmo due to space concerns and because A/C is installed.
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If your clutch fan can't be stopped by a single finger (wear thick gloves if testing this!) while the engine is running, the clutch is sticking. In which case yes, it is wasting a little power.
The clutch fan is only creating any significant load when the temperature dictates, just like the e-fan.
The clutch fan is only creating any significant load when the temperature dictates, just like the e-fan.
My LOW speed (this is an 18" Lincoln fan, BTW) doesn't toggle on till 195° and I can sit for quite a while before hitting that point.
Also note that I tried for a year to use a SPAL FAN-PWM to bring the gradual clutch-fan behavior to my on-off e-fan. Ultimately I gave up because the SPAL FAN-PWM sucks rancid donkey *****. But on my Cosmo, I used two smaller e-fans and have them programmed in stages to provide more linear temperature control vs. on-off. E-fans were used on the Cosmo due to space concerns and because A/C is installed.
Although my setup is hooked to the ECU and activates the BAC when the fan comes on, I usually can't tell if the fan is on till I see the VDO water temp gauge plummet. There isn't much noise or noticeable effect when it triggers.
I don't believe it has EVER gotten hot enough to switch to HIGH, which in my case is 210°.
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Though this is a wide assed guess, an idling air pump probably takes more engine power to turn than an idling clutch fan.
The way I see it, either fan will do the job just fine. Except that it's so easy for people to screw up an e-fan install that most are best served just keeping the stock clutch fan. I have had arguments with people installing e-fans because they say the fans I am recommending are "huge" and "bigger then ma' V8!". Then they come to me with overheating cars and I say "Yep, told you".
Although I have an optimal setup for cooling- no AC and a NA engine- I'd credit my car's behavior more directly to the trigger temps of the fan.
My LOW speed (this is an 18" Lincoln fan, BTW) doesn't toggle on till 195° and I can sit for quite a while before hitting that point.
My LOW speed (this is an 18" Lincoln fan, BTW) doesn't toggle on till 195° and I can sit for quite a while before hitting that point.
I never found more sophisticated control to be necessary.
#24
Free up space for what?
So far unmentioned, the best and most useful attribute of the electric fan is the ability to accurately control its operation.
The stock fan is a dumb, brute force solution to providing airflow, it has only the most general idea of what the coolant is actually doing.
A well set up fan control circuit will respond much more quickly and effectively to temp variation than the thermoclutch ever could.
So far unmentioned, the best and most useful attribute of the electric fan is the ability to accurately control its operation.
The stock fan is a dumb, brute force solution to providing airflow, it has only the most general idea of what the coolant is actually doing.
A well set up fan control circuit will respond much more quickly and effectively to temp variation than the thermoclutch ever could.
Thank you sir for the clarity and reason enough to purchase one. I always thought to myself, the stock one does JUST fine, can't argue that. BUT, E fan looks so CLEAN. I have only had one REAL concern about efans, that is the hint of it going out. With fan clutch I hear it, can spin it, and you can see it go out with the way the temp reads and car runs.
Your comment of consistancy makes total sense. Who doesn't want accuracy? And the benefit of much easier access to work on the car.
Thank you.