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Which electric fan to get?
I need to replace my fan. I think I'm going to go the electric route instead of staying stock.
I need to know what electric fan will work with my setup. -- I'm going to stay away from sourcing used fans out of old cars as I want to limit the chances of it crapping out on me on the road. I've got an 88 TII with a hybrid turbo that will be pushing 350 hp once I get it tuned. Koyo radiator, FMIC, AC. |
2 Attachment(s)
Seriously get the Ford Taurus fan. If you feel better about it, buy a new replacement motor for it.
Or, do as I'm doing, wait til it dies.. ..but even if it did it's 2-speed and all you'd have to do is switch the speed til you get a replacement motor. This fan is on steroids. I make 400whp with A/C in Houston in summer. I have a switch in the car that allows the ecu to either turn on the fan in low or high speed. Keep in mind I have a front mount and A/C condenser to go through before the air reaches my radiator. With that being said that fan pulls like crazy through all layers. I have foam between edges of the condenser and the rad. It is NOT a drop in but its really easy to trim the shroud flat using a body saw from Harbor Freight. (Electric saw works great by the way) Once I got the general shape, I used the rough flat concrete floor in my garage to file it perfectly flat. Then I followed it up with a fine file. I drilled 4 holes to zip tie it to the tabs on the rad brackets. This holds it very strong. I purchased a light weight adhesive foam roll from the Depot. 1/4"X1" between the fan and rad. Wiring is a 3-wire common ground with one wire for high and the other for low. The pic is my NEW Koyo.. I never had a single issue with the stock rad but it was 27 years old and the plastic looked brittle. So, I changed it to be proactive. |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11887509)
Seriously get the Ford Taurus fan. If you feel better about it, buy a new replacement motor for it.
Or, do as I'm doing, wait til it dies.. ..but even if it did it's 2-speed and all you'd have to do is switch the speed til you get a replacement motor. This fan is on steroids. I make 400whp with A/C in Houston in summer. I have a switch in the car that allows the ecu to either turn on the fan in low or high speed. Keep in mind I have a front mount and A/C condenser to go through before the air reaches my radiator. With that being said that fan pulls like crazy through all layers. I have foam between edges of the condenser and the rad. It is NOT a drop in but its really easy to trim the shroud flat using a body saw from Harbor Freight. (Electric saw works great by the way) Once I got the general shape, I used the rough flat concrete floor in my garage to file it perfectly flat. Then I followed it up with a fine file. I drilled 4 holes to zip tie it to the tabs on the rad brackets. This holds it very strong. I purchased a light weight adhesive foam roll from the Depot. 1/4"X1" between the fan and rad. Wiring is a 3-wire common ground with one wire for high and the other for low. The pic is my NEW Koyo.. I never had a single issue with the stock rad but it was 27 years old and the plastic looked brittle. So, I changed it to be proactive. |
Originally Posted by freq
(Post 11887537)
Did you have to upgrade your alt? I've already got a 3rd gen alt in my tII, but wondering if that'll be enough extra juice.
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i'd be tempted to go with something like these, just stock Rx8 fans
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I have an upgraded alternator but it seemed fine without it too. Probably a good idea even without
an e-fan. The stock 87 alt was weak. You need like 30amp dedicated to an e-fan. FD alt is good enough. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11887542)
i'd be tempted to go with something like these, just stock Rx8 fans Amazon.com: Depo 316-55037-000 Mazda RX8 Replacement Dual Function Cooling Fan Assembly: Automotive
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Mach- that doesn't look like a typical taurus fan, the taurus shroud usually covers more usually only needs trimming by the upper radiator hose. I didnt trim mine what i did was heat the area and using a 2" pipe shaped it to fit around the hose
Freq- it is your best bet. Like i said in the other thread i bought a brand new taurus replacement and the motor and wiring were half the size of the OEM unit. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11887550)
What kind of control unit would those fans expect to see?
the FD has a kind of involved setup, and the Rx8 must be simpler, although its hard to tell as the fans don't run much |
What year/years Taurus fans is everybody using. I keep hearing about them but have never caught that it seems. If/when my current E-fan dies I may try this Taurus one everybody is so proud of.
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Originally Posted by Switchblade5984
(Post 11887650)
The EOTWAWKI Fan is the MIghty Lincoln Mark VIII in two-speed. It'll suck golf balls through a soda straw. BTW, I use the Lincoln Mark VIII on my Vert these days. I use low-speed for cooling on a 195* thermo-switch. It is wired to run high-speed whenever the A/C compressor runs. The system runs pretty much transparently these days with no thought or input from me. From the be all end all thead:
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 10834745)
Time to revisit this thread. I have been running this fan for a little over one year. I have the two speed action set up as follows: low-speed on temperature at 195* off at 180* and high-speed runs only with the A/C compressor. When I was using the Taurus fan in this two speed mode, NO PROBLEMO on temps year round for 2 years. When I switched the Mighty Mark VIII, the temps never varied, but neither did the roaring fan sound. :(
I switched to this Villager fan last fall . At first I noticed very little change, but since spring I have been been unhappy with my temps. I have worried about the Griffin radiator, my use of Evans Coolant, my use of R152a etc. as reasons my temps were out of control. 220*-230* had become the norm. On hot days, I quit driving the car as the temps were wholly unacceptable. This last week, my heater hose began leaking so I replaced it. While I was under the hood, I realized that the only thing changed was the fan. So I moved the high speed fan wire to the temperature controlled relay. Bam! All weekend, temps never varied from 185*. Even 85 mph on the highway, whip off the interstate and idle=185*. What's the take home on this? 1.) If you use this fan, don't bother with low speed unless you have a sophisticated control system that stages the speeds at increasing temps. 2.) The high speed on this fan likely pulls nearly the same or slightly more air than low speed on the Taurus fan, based on both my temperature experiences and the measured amperage draw. 3.) Low amperage draw fans may not have the static pressure capacity for extra thick radiator cores, like my 3" Griffin. I am probably going to change to a dual-pass rad and a PWM controller with the Mighty Mark VIII or a Taurus fan when the Vert goes Turbo.:icon_tup: |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11887509)
Seriously get the Ford Taurus fan. If you feel better about it, buy a new replacement motor for it.
Or, do as I'm doing, wait til it dies.. ..but even if it did it's 2-speed and all you'd have to do is switch the speed til you get a replacement motor. This fan is on steroids. I make 400whp with A/C in Houston in summer. I have a switch in the car that allows the ecu to either turn on the fan in low or high speed. Keep in mind I have a front mount and A/C condenser to go through before the air reaches my radiator. With that being said that fan pulls like crazy through all layers. I have foam between edges of the condenser and the rad. It is NOT a drop in but its really easy to trim the shroud flat using a body saw from Harbor Freight. (Electric saw works great by the way) Once I got the general shape, I used the rough flat concrete floor in my garage to file it perfectly flat. Then I followed it up with a fine file. I drilled 4 holes to zip tie it to the tabs on the rad brackets. This holds it very strong. I purchased a light weight adhesive foam roll from the Depot. 1/4"X1" between the fan and rad. Wiring is a 3-wire common ground with one wire for high and the other for low. The pic is my NEW Koyo.. I never had a single issue with the stock rad but it was 27 years old and the plastic looked brittle. So, I changed it to be proactive. Thanks! Jack |
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 11887842)
Wanna speak a little detail regarding that Alternator in your pic? Interesting.
Thanks! Jack |
To answer the two questions.
Yes the fan used to cover better on the stock radiator. But now I have the 89' N-Flo and there is some gap cause the tanks are now on the side instead of the top and bottom. The alternator is the Quality Power Auto CS144 200amp 130 amp@idle, strait across ears, 1-wire 16vdc capable reg. and I think it has a pulley 2.5" I trimmed about 1/2" off of one of the ears. I ran 16vdc battery for a while.. I just looked it up on their website and it's $345 but last year I paid $200 shipped! It might be worth a call to see if you can get a better deal. The 2 guys are awesome and have spectacular customer service. |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11888044)
To answer the two questions.
Yes the fan used to cover better on the stock radiator. But now I have the 89' N-Flo and there is some gap cause the tanks are now on the side instead of the top and bottom. The alternator is the Quality Power Auto CS144 200amp 130 amp@idle, strait across ears, 1-wire 16vdc capable reg. and I think it has a pulley 2.5" I trimmed about 1/2" off of one of the ears. I ran 16vdc battery for a while.. I just looked it up on their website and it's $345 but last year I paid $200 shipped! It might be worth a call to see if you can get a better deal. The 2 guys are awesome and have spectacular customer service. |
Yes, voltage is adjustable from 12v to 19.2 using the internal regulator accessed with a small screwdriver.
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When searching for taurus fans, this fan kept coming up .. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-133
Will this work? |
Originally Posted by mach.80
(Post 11888172)
Yes, voltage is adjustable from 12v to 19.2 using the internal regulator accessed with a small screwdriver.
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Originally Posted by freq
(Post 11888189)
When searching for taurus fans, this fan kept coming up .. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-133
Will this work? I think that Rob had poor experience buying a new non-OEM Taurus fan. |
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 11888260)
I emailed Dorman once regarding the Taurus fan asking for specs-amperage pulled on each speed and cfm specs. They emailed back that they matched the OEM specs for the Taurus application.
I think that Rob had poor experience buying a new non-OEM Taurus fan. |
nissan quest e fan
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Any decent Spal fan will be fine along with a controller if you need it.. Will have the peace of mind that it will be brand new also :)
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Originally Posted by psyaddict
(Post 11889250)
nissan quest e fan
my issue was that i moved my engine back 2 inches, and the fan wasnt inside the shroud well enough, so i moved the rad/shroud back 2 inches as well and it fixed the problem. this is on my rx8-6speed vert... the quest fan looks powerful as a Taurus fan. the one i have caught my eye because it was a recently installed part(very new looking) and then the car was wrecked and sent to the you-pull-it. |
I'm running this fan on my v-mount and like it a lot:
https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...-12v-dual.aspx https://webstore.spalusa.com/content...30102052_1.jpg |
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