doing a rebuild.. what else should i get?
 

o.k..... i started purchasing parts i need for the rebuild/upgrade..... here is a list of everything i plan on/already purchased....... anything missing? any extra little goodies' that i should get? (besides a full EMS..i dont have the funds right now for that) note..... this is all for a 88 t2 motor

already purchased

-2mm 2-peice rotary aviation apex seals and springs
-mazdatrix full engine gasket kit (internals and extarnals)
-FD corner springs
-corner seals
-thermal pellet
front e-shaft seal
-rear e-shaft seal
-rear gear seal
-RP underdrive main pulley
-dual alternator pulley
-alternator relocation kit
-apexi S-AFC2
-stainless oil cooler lines
-new thermostat housing
-walbro 255ltr. hr. fuel pump
-msd ignition box

on the list of things to get (before mid february)

-oil control rings and o-rings
-rx-8 stationary gears
-side seals (if mine are out of spec)
-stainless steel oil injection lines (where do i purchase them from?)
-pineapple racing aluminum oil pan
-solid motor mounts
-(2) 550cc injectors
-(2) 720cc injectors
-stainless steel fuel lines and all AN fitting needed
-aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-BNR stage 3/4 S5 turbocharger
-20lb. lightened flywheel
-clutchmasters stage 3 clutch kit (cltch, press. plate, t/o bearing, pilot bushing)
-koyo aluminum radiator
-samco radiator hoses
-ssautochrome turbo-back exhaust
-black magic electric fan
-slave cylinder
-emissions block off plates
-apexi AVC-R

thats all i can think of right now..... yes, i do plan on getting all of this by mid february, and if there is anything im missing, please chime in and help..thanx!

go check the archive for the MOP lines replacement writeup. It's like 20 bucks and maybe an hour of your time and you get nice clear teflon lines that won't break, ever. Oh, it's kinda important that they stay clear because you can easilly tell if they've stopped working for some reason or another.

Don't use the RA springs for a turbo car, gotta use mazda spec ones. They even say on their website that you shouldn't use their springs for turbo applications. They will flatten.

I don't know if it's such a great idea to install all this stuff before you break in your rebuild because instead of just having a dozen things that could go wrong you'll have a million.

yeah id second the throw away the RA apex seal springs, and buy mazda ones. ive known a couple people who have flattend the RA spings

Or maybe you've considered getting rid of the OMP lines and just start pre-mixing??

i might reconsider getting fully solid motor mounts...

my friend has been racing mazdas for about 15 years now... they've had a ton of problems with solid motor mounts cracking the housings...

ive heard of people using like 1/2 polyurethane or something...

Dont get those things in bold, sell your afc and get a standalone man, it makes things easier trust me!

get an atkins thermal pellet replacement, they let oil flow at all times...

and why would you buy a new thermostat housing but not a new thermostat?

you're not buying new side seals with that large of a budget? i would forget about one or two of the not so necessary mods which you could always add on later (external) and make sure my internals were straighter than an arrow. those things get crumbly after so many heat cycles.

that's my opinion

Sideseals usually remain in spec. I do agree on the internal now, external later part.

yeah, i'm biased i guess... i blew a re-used side seal on my first rebuild. though it was higher mileage, it was well in-spec. it didn't take well to re-seating on the donor side housing. the metal was extremely brittle upon disassembly and i could very easily snap the remaining seals in half.... just a little something to freak you out hehe.

i've been OCD about those kind of things since then.

thanx everyone..... ok, heres what i got.........
no ss oil om lines..... (dont want to pre-mix..too much work)
no solid mounts
use oem apex seal springs
new side seals regardless of old ones being in spec..
put rebuild in first, drive for a while, then slowly start installing aftermarket components just
to make sure i dont have a million problems

and i did purchase a thermostat, i just didnt really add all of the "preventive maintenance" parts.... i did also get...

-new thermostsat
-new spark plugs
-new spark plug wires
-new air filter
-new fuel filter

questions..................
i purchased the mazdatrix thermal pellet..are they different from the atkins ones?

why not purchase the aluminum oil pan, flywheel, samco hoses, and fan????

as previously stated, at this point in my buildup, im not getting a standalone.....so which bnr stage is a good choice?? stage 3 or 4? the price isnt that different, but will my safc piggyback be able to tune the air/fuel enough for the stage 4?

The reason not to get the e-fan is that its a waste of money. In short, it doesnt cool any better and it costs more money. Heres the detailed explanation: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

I dont even think scalliwag makes the ss oil omp lines anymore.

Well if you want your car tuned to its full potential, standalone is where its at, plain and simple. Samco hoses are pretty expensive man, If you've seen guitarjunkies engine bay he has those custom radiator hoses that basically last much much longer. Oil pan- well you've seen the debate its up to you. Flywheel-go for it, i just thought you can always drop your trans later and save up for that standalone, same with fan.

definitely don't try to get anything from scalliwag right now.

you might want to get series 6 multi window stationary gears and bearings as i understand the rx8 ones have to be used with rx8 rotors due to the depth of the gear

no....they fit.....the main difference is they dont have a front seal on the gear, so you have to silocone it....but they fit.....

written by mazdatrix... * If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice.

also by mazdatrix.... *For "performance" 13b applications we now recommend the RX8 gears.

ok.ok.ok.ok.............. well, i descided to dish out the extra cash and go microtech.... i just purchased the microtech LT10S ......should be here in a few days...... also, a few changes now

-master power t4 t04 turbocharger
-hks 40mm wastegate
-ssautochrome manifold (rewelded for strenght)
-custom downpipe

Be careful the masterpower turbo is the right specs. I read that they use common names (GT45, T04) but they don't have the same specs as the originals. Also, why are you spending all this money and going cheap on the manifold?

If you are getting a custom downpipe, you might as well have them make you a manifold while you are there. HKS Cast Mani, or Custom