Nice work, those tools come in handy when theres severe air in the system.

 

so you fix your **** or what??

 

The Haynes manual recommends having a shop bleed your brakes or change brake fluid, since they will usually do it quickly and cheaply with their machines whereas it is difficult to DIY.

If you can't get it all the air out, maybe you could at least make it driveable and then pay someone.

 

Tips for bleeding your brakes:

1. Don't open the valve too long. Try to open and close quickly.

2. Press the brake pedal like it's your bitch. Because you can.

2. Get Speedbleeders... (you can now ignore tip #1) For brakes AND clutch. Just make sure that they don't leak (I had one that leaked even when closed).

3. And obviously, don't let the fluid go below the Low mark, but don't overfill it either (you'll spill fluid, which eats paint, into an area that is VERY hard to clean).

 

It's ok to overfill it a bit, when you're in the middle of bleeding them, as long as you don't finish with it too full.

 

that pump looks awfully like one of those austin powers ***** pumps, mmm didnt know you could use them for brakes

God to see ya got on top of it though in the end

 

This works great for me:

Get a spare master cylinder cap, epoxy a piece of 1/8 in. copper line into the vent Hole on the top.
Attatch the 1/8 in. copper to a small air regulator set to about 10 psi.
Top off fluid reservoir, and screw on cap.
Turn on the air, and open the bleeders one at a time.
The air will force the fluid through the system and flush out all the krap and air with it.