Diagram Interpretation - boost sensor
 

Can anyone interpret the ASCII diagram of the boost sensor plug in the following link? It's under the 3800rpm fix catagory.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main.shtml

Thanks.

If your looking for which wire to put an extra ground on, on a 87 turboii, then its the brown wire with the black stripe. Newer cars use a pure black wire. If I am not understanding the question, just ignore the answer.

Thanks for the reply, you're definately on the right track. Unfortunately my car doesn't have the brown with black stripe wire. I'm feeling inarticulate right now, but I'll try to describe this; If you have the connector and the tab is facing up, which wire should it be?

_--_
|a b|
|c d|
-----

This is looking at the connector from the side that meets up with the boost sensor. (or if you feel more comfortable come up with your own convention)

If you are looking at the connector as it fits into the pressure sensor,the wire you want is toward the front of the car,on the fender side.I am curious what color is your wire(if it's not too personal a question!)?

I just went outside and looked for you, mine is totally black. Just to confirm, wire closest to the front right corner.

Sounds like the correct wire. I don't know when they changed to a plain black wire. My 87 factory manual says its a brown wire with a black stripe, and the 88 manual shows just a plain black wire. Makes no difference. You have the right wire. Just a personal opinion, but after you put another ground on that wire, I think you should strive for .1 ohm or less when done.

Okay thanks guys. If you guys are wrong and my car stops working, you two have to split the cost of a new one. :)

Hailers, between what points am I measuring the resistance you speak of? I have the problem and I decided it couldn't hurt to try this, I didn't measure anything.

Measure between the black wire and some point on the motor,I normally use the thermostat housing.You need a good digital meter,make sure the place on the motor is clean and like the man says you need a very low number.

When the car blows up, just remember, Whitby, Ontario is a lot closer to you than Ft Worth, Texas, and that I'm on welfare and have declared bankrupcy and the IRS has a claim on any money I might possibly make in the future, and Irv, the Mafia Boss, has first dibs on my loot due to the gambling debts I've racked up in his Las Vegas Casinos. By the way you should have four wires, the black which is the ground, a brown wire with a white stripe which is a reference voltage, a black wire with a white stripe that is a 12v source, and a brown wire with a red stripe which is the feedback to the ECU. Matches yours perfectly does it not? Home free. By the way, do you have a grounding wire from a spade near the wiper motor to the engine? Should be there. If not, run one.

Yes that is totally correct. (wire colours) I don't know about the other ground, but I will follow your advice.

Why would it be a low resistance from the connector to some other grounded point? Wouldn't it be a very HIGH resistance (hense why it's considered ground)? The only way I can see getting .1ohm is if I'm directly measuring from one end of the wire to the other. (which just verifies that it's actually grounded) Maybe I'm being a moron (most likely), please explain.

Thanks for the continued help.

I get .1 ohm from the boost sensor to the neg terminal on the battery or from the boost sensor to any part of the engine. Good solder job and clean secure grounds. Also get .1 ohm from the boost sensor to the blade ground next to the wiper motor. P.S. If you look at the wiring diagram you will see that there are several items besides the boost sensor that are all spliced to the same ground. The addition of another ground at that boost sensor helps all the other items also. One of the others is the tps, atmospheric pressure sensor, water thermo sensor, air flow meter etc. Settle for .2 if you really must. What are you getting by the way????? Make sure the engine is not running when checking the ground, please. Off to work. Yippeeeeeee!

SNRUB....You sound like a fellow who knows what he is doing, so I thought you might be interested in the free factory service manual that is on line, and did I mention its free? Its at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm and although its a 88 manual, your car is virtualy the same. There are wiring schematics in the rear of it. Just download the sections you are interested in if you want. No your not a maroon. Just take your meter and touch it to any two places on your engine and you'll see that you get under .1 and probably .000 and you'll get .1 easily from the boost sensor to the engine or to the neg terminal on the battery. If you get some outrageous figure like 5 or 12 ohms then something is askew.

Okay, I'm going to do it in a hour or so. I'll let you know how it goes.

Trust me, I don't know what I'm doing. :)

Thanks again.

Snrub, you say you don't know what you are doing? GREAT! We can throw all sorts of BS at you and really screw your car up. Thanks for the heads up. humor.

If your chasing the 3800 hes. I'll save you some time. Pull your secondary injectors, clean the bleeder screens underneath them and make sure your injectors are clean. I tried everything in the book including re-grounding the ecu and cleaning the 2ndary's is what cured it 100%.

Scott

I did the grounding job and no luck. I'm having a hell of a time finding a ohm meter. Friday I'm going to go to Canadian Tire and see if they will lend me one. If not I'll buy one. I'm sure it will come in handy atleast a few more times. On the upside, if it still doesn't work I can fix the ECU and get the clock/center lights working at the same time.

JScott: About 2 months ago injector cleaner was applied, do you suppose I should still pull them? I'm not positive it's the 3800rpm problem, it just seems like a good starting point.

Hey SNRUB..... I see that your clock and possibly idiot lites don't work. Easy fix. Just remove the idiot lite assy and open the back and resolder the pins on the circuit board that connect to the harness plug. Works every time. Solder just needs to be remelted and maybe a touch of new solder adde. Its whats called cold solder joints. They were not soldered porperly the first time. Solder was not completly melted. This site http://home.rmci.net/panther/rx7clock.htm You might want to look at their complete site. It has a number of fixes on it (copied from other sites also, I think). http://home.rmci.net/panther/