I've been researching this idea, & its probably known to everyone.. but Mariah Motorsports has a heatshield/box-like product that is to be used in conjunction w/ thier NACA duct headlight cover. Seems like an ideal solution to me, keeps head out, & directs cool fresh air to the filter...

http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/ext..._headlight.htm

so..Jonesfromindiana do you have a pic of where you put the filter? Do you know if you need the brake duct on that side?

ACTUALLY, all you guys are wrong about the whole water not getting in. i had a regular ram air intake on my car (the one that just sits in the engine bonnet) and my car got water locked..
a friend of mines firebird (6 cylinder) got hydrolocked too. and a coworkers caddilac got hydrolocked..
they told me there was something like a bypass valve for the water to go through..
dont know what the hell, or how it would work.
i think a box with fins between the box and watever ducting your getting would be more practical to keep water from getting sucked in.
i mean unless you want to personally experience your car dying on you on the side of the road as if you lost compression and have to de-flood.. the WATER from the engine.

actually that slinky-cold air intake that someone posted using two stock intake tubes was a good idea.. it'd be sucking in turbulant air, but it would be COLd turbulant air.. lol

While removing 2lbs from my car is appealing and all, I don't live in sunny so-cal. :) So, I *REQUIRE* my washer fluid. I was wondering if I could get a JDM washer bottle and put it over by the coil packs on the other side. There's a hole that looks like its there for that reason. Just an idea. If a JDM one won't work, I'm sure I could find another car with a similar bottle/neck to put in there. Would only need to re-route the wires and hose.

is it not possible to run a cai on a tII I tried and it would not idle...seems like it prob wouldnt be a good idea anyways ,Just trying to figure out a good way to stop heatsoak

:bsmeter:

no pictures. i only ran it for like a day, then it rained and i didnt want my filter to get phucked cus it was exposed.

but no i did not remove my brake ducting.

just run it to the back of your bumper. and call it a day. my idear sucked.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../intake003.jpg


http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../intake005.jpg




that might help

haha, not to bash your pictures or anything they accomplish it... but it reminds me of a kindergartner drawing. I've seen alot of people do something like that. I'm still figuring out my stuff and I may have found a nice way to route it... But until I do it for sure, it's still just an Idea. After this month and i'm caught up with all my bills, i'll think about getting the front end of my car together--I still have to buy a lsd repair kit though. :mad:

on another question has anyone ran the intake pipe under the radiator? maybe have the pipe connected to the MAF and then flatten out underneath the radiator for clearence and then bend up to be in front of the radiator with a nice big cone filter? Direct hit with fresh air at speed and since heat rises the radiator shouldn't heat soak that portion of the pipe so much... and even if it does you may just wrap it and call it a day.

I was under the impression that the Vane Air Sensor had to be mounted flat. Did you notice any changes after you installed it like that?

If the Air sensor is functioning properly there shouldn't be much of a difference depending on how you have it set. You would most likely get a worse effect if you took a very high G flat turn when mounted normal. At least this way the force upon it is constant (so long as you're not doing alot of jumps and bumps and what not) and should be able to be corrected releatively painlessly.

I like the function and look of the head light air scoop. Im looking into this, it seems interesting. Does this still allow for full stock functionality of the flip lights?

Yeah, sounds good, except for the fact that it's useless when the headlight is up. How often do you drive at night? I happen to every day.

I avoid most night driving as the police are really annoying with sports cars when the sun goes down, however your saying the induction dosent work at night simply because the headlights are in the up position however, This would maybe still work with a sleepy eye kit.

As far as my lights I generally dont flip them up, I run my brights with the flips down so that It appears that I have headlights through the little light ports under the flips :)

Sorry but, rotary engines can't hydrolock. Unless you somehow get 1 entire gallon of water into the engine at the exact same time (impossible, unless you BUILD it that way) then it will NOT hydrolock.

Perhaps your engine seized, from a dead bearing, or carbon lock. But it did NOT hydrolock.

A piston engine can hydrolock from even the tiniest drop of water. This is NOT a piston engine. It is a rotary engine.

So wait, your car hydroLOCKED, and yet you were able to "deflood it"? You do realize that injecting water into an engine RAISES compression, which is why some top drag racers actually inject a little bit on the top end for higher compression when they run out of power on the top.

Sounds like you don't know what happened to your car..

With the duct, as soon as the headlight moves up more then about 1/3" of an inch, the path of the air is completely blocked by the sheet metal behind the headlight.

you are supossed to. but i never changed it. thats how the kit made me mount it. i know aaron cake has a site that tells you how to fix it, but im lazy.

really, vane air sensors just need laminar flow, and in many cases I'm sure the easiest way to get decent laminar flow is to mount it horizontally (along the natural flow of the air).

I was told yes, & the way he explained installation to me... I dont see why it wouldnt....

As for driving at night, its a topic worth considering. However, I didnt think to ask when I was talking w/ the guys @ Mariah. In thinking about it however, I suspect just having the headlamp in the up position, would help redirect cool air into the box. Perhaps not as efficiently as the duct, but I suspect it would still catch air. And, night air is cooler....

Bear in mind, I have not acquired the kit yet... I just believe it looks promising, & has a nice integrated look to it... If anyone has any practical experience with this duct/box combo, I'd love to hear your impressions...

Do me a favor. Go out to your car. Pop the hood, and put the head lights in their up position.


Notice...it blocks all flow that puny little duct could have made.