Convertible top replacement?
 

Are there any guides on how to do this? I really need on that tells me how to "rope" in the back window. Everythread I find is about people talking about the tops instead of how to replace it properly

I just had mine done. Bought the canvas top from convertible top guys. It came with a decent guide. But I had New Look Auto in Gainsville/Manassas do it instead.

I know not really the answer you were looking for. But I can post pics if you like.

i've done it. its like explaining an engine rebuild, you really just need a video. but it pushes in and out, and its PITA.

Yeah cause I'm not tryna pay somebody else $700 i can do somethin myself

I know lol thats why I need pictures or a damn video. I might just have to make a ghetto top & paste it over the old one or something. ughhhh

Convertible top replacement?
 

convertible tops are a ROYAL biatch, me my buddy and his dad tried putting one on a 67 300, ya right, we bit the bullet and had a place do it, well worth the cash cause you know its done right, and looks good too

its a lot like trying to squeeze on a pair of tighty whiteies that are 10 sizes to small, gotta know where to put your "stuff"

I didn't pay that much. But I agree I wouldn't pay for something I could do myself. After hearing from people what a PITA it was and not having a garage I bit the bullet and paid someone.

Jeeze
 

I've never understood why everyone is so afraid of the convertible top. Here is my guide to the correct adhesives for the job from the 2nd Gen Archive:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...nished-503149/


The rope in process is hard to describe but easy to do. All you need is Google:

Let me google that for you

My 12-year old daughter could install a convertible top...

rope??!?! adhesives? i guess i did my top wrong, but it looks good, and doesnt leak :scratch:

seriously, i didn't use no glue, or sealent around anything, ( although i knew i shoulda )
i put it together to test fit with the intention of taking it back apart to add the glue... but then it all came together and it rained and didn't leak, no ripples.. i put adding the glue to the top on the back burner... now 3 years later... i would rather sell the whole thing and start over before taking it back off..

and that rope trick woulda been handy as hell, we just pushed and finagled.

Thanks man! I'm gonan try to get a friend to help me next week or the week after.

1. I am not a seamstress.
2. Rather than spend an entire weekend screwing with the top and probably mess it up, I can work overtime one day at my air-conditioned office and pay a professional to do it right.

I've never understood why everyone is so afraid of having a professional do the work. ;)

Don't equate some dude at an upholstery shop with your own professional status- it demeans you. Just because some one takes money for a job doesn't make them a professional. I deal with lots of tradesmen who take money but cut corners either by sloth or by more often by ignorance.

I couldn't find any 'professional' who had ever put a top on an RX7. I didn't feel like paying $800 labor and $400 markup on a $400 top for a first timer. Include the fact that these cars tend to be a DIY hobby. That's why I did mine 9 years ago and will do it again someday.

And my garage IS air conditioned. :)

Yes, I had to shop around because some supposed upholstery shops were just stereo shops that were trying to make an extra buck on something that they were not really skilled at. I ended up going to The Top Shop, which has been doing great work since 1975. They only charged me $400 for the labor, and they even fixed some of the rusty parts. I supplied the Robbins top because I could buy it cheaper on the internet because the professional shops are required to go through a bunch of middle-men.

I suppose that somebody who lives in a remote area may be forced to do the work themselves, but I don't see any point in attempting the work if there is a good professional shop near your area... or if you just like to attempt things like this to see if you can do it. Personally, this is one of those things that I am really glad that I farmed-out the labor, lol.

I'm working on it. My garage was built by the previous owner of the house, who was an aircraft upholsterer who did hot-rod upholstery work on the side. She only needed lighting and I guess a sewing machine of some sort, so the garage has a single 15-amp line from the house. I can use the lights plus a minor-draw item like a circular saw, but adding AC to that mix isn't gonna happen until I get off my butt and upgrade the electrical system.

I might end up making a hardtop convertible if I can figure out the correct measurments for everything to fold together but I doubt it lol.

I bought my top with the intent of installing it my self. Then, life got busy and I decided to do have it installed by a shop. I would have taken a $400 deal in a heartbeat. What I found was that after trying several different shops, including the one frequented by my 928 buddy (928sRus) along with a personal trip to introduce me to the shop owner, no one would consider installing my top, only a top marked up to $800. Plus the labor.


Do an inverter mini-split heat-pump. It's essentially a mini-split with a variable-speed condenser unit. The inverter type heat-pumps have low-temp capabilities to heat down to 2*F outside. Over-size capacity by at least a ton for the A/C-you want the ability to cool down a hot car just pulling in from a test drive, or if you open the overhead door and dump the cool dry air or to pull down temps even when you start in midday. The inverter will still slow down the compressor as your garage cools down, giving adequate humidity removal.

This oversize will also give you greater heating capacity for your St. Louis winters.

I have no idea what you just wrote, but I'm gonna print it out take it to the store with me after I have my electrician upgrade the electrical system, lol.

Is that free standing garage off an alley? Is it frame or concrete block? Insulated? I don't fully understand what he said but he got the winter conditions right for a free stander with poor insulation.

Doesn't matter what you have. Getting the space insulated will save more over the long run than anything.

Modern split systems with inverters are the way to go for smallish area's, like a garage. Mitsubishi is the most common one I have seen in the DC area. Relatively cheap, easy to work on and reliable is what I have been told.

Central air units with the highest SER rating and VFD's would be for the whole house. DX for small buildings, Gycol for small to medium buildings. Chill water chillers for large sites.