ones is for the ecu the other is for the cruise control system.

OK, so which one is used for the safety neutral/ starter disruption?

The one for cruise control is at the top...so the opposite of that.

The two wire switch is the clutch safety switch. I'm going through the swap myself at the moment, any questions, feel free to ask.

Seems both of mine are two wires switches, the difference being one requires a plug-in type connector and the other has a pigtail wire connector. When I start working on it today, I'll snap a few pics of both.

a buddy made me this piece to adapt t2 trans to auto body, seems to be holding up! :D

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...0627-00043.jpg

Can you post a few more pics at different angles?

Interesting design, that's for sure. I'd be interested to see how it holds up vs. the cost of having it fabricated compared to the mount v8kilr used.

it's been on the car a couple years now, i have this pic from right before installing it, I can take a look if i have any others. the thing is BEEFY hahaha

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...0204-00022.jpg

EDIT: another

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...0627-00049.jpg

How is the vibration with that mounting bracket? If I had the plans that might be something I would go for, but it looks prohibitive as far as costs go.

I was told on previous post that since I was using a TII transmission I either needed to swap the diff to the TII or buy a new drive shaft that would mate to a TII tranny and a N/A diff. Once I unbolted my drive shaft I was looking at the N/A diff and wondered if I could just swap the flange the from the TII diff rather than replace the entire unit... anyone have input on that?

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

Everything is completely different. Short answer is no. I'd just suck it up and buy the Mazdatrix driveshaft.

no vibration issues. costs should be near $0, it's a few bits of scrap steel and some cuts to the original crossmember! haha

I have posted that the turbo drive shaft can be put on the flange and the holes drilled in the n/a flange, it stays centered and balanced and you need not spend any extra on a shaft. i've run it this way over 50k miles. Gxl Diffs are easy to find in the pull a part, and easy to shim for good lock up.

OK, so I completed the auto to manual swap and now I need to address the wiring for the cruise control and since I have a Vert, the wiring that connected to the shifter that allowed the electric top to function when the car was in "P" or "N". Any info provided would help a lot. Thanks.

What year vert? On my 87, all I had to do was make sure my e-brake is up. I cant help ya with cruise control as I cant get a damn thing to work for that either.

1990 Vert