comp testing???
 

do u get differnet readings if you use the top plugs and not the bottom? and how about if you take only one plug out at a time versus 2? and using a piston engine comp guage what is a good reading with the bleeder valve closed? and do u have to stay and look at it as u crank it or can u crank then look at it ( only one person here) because i noticed that it held vacume reading?

Doubt it makes a difference which plug you use because there both part of the same chamber. You have to take the one way valve out of the compression gauge as your testing 3 chambers not 1 like a piston. You have to have someone in the car cranking it because you are watching where the needle hops to because it will go back to 0 immediately.

The Compression Testing Post to End all Compression Testing Posts
 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rotary-compression-tester-734840/

Here is jackhild59's methodology for uniform compression test results on a rotary engines


Fully charge the battery. Slow rotation will yield deceptively low results.

Use the bottom spark plug hole; take both bottom spark plugs out for the duration of the test.

Remove the EGI fuse: you don't want the thing trying to try to run.

The throttle should be held to the floor or the throttle plate tied fully open. Failure to do this will yield very low results.

You will need an assistant to operate the ignition (and throttle) or a remote start switch with the throttle tied open.

Ideally the test should be done while the engine is warm. Cold is ok, but warm numbers are what should count. If you test a cold engine, be aware the what looks like an unacceptably low number may actually turn out to be quite all right. There is no hard fast number that will be the difference from cold to hot. Warm will be consistent, cold may not be. If an engine fails the test cold, it may well pass the test when warm.

Crank the engine for about 10-15 seconds max for each test.


Bump Test:
This verifies that the apex seals are operating properly, ie. not broken or stuck.


Remove the Schroeder valve in the BOTTOM of the compression tester (NOT the side release valve) for the 'look for three uniform bump test'.

Leave the side release valve alone for this test.

Test each chamber front then rear, make notes! Those bumps should be even and somewhere around 60-70 psi minimum.


Compression Test:
This is to test the actual compression in the engine.


Replace the Schroeder valve in the BOTTOM of the compression tester.

Retest each chamber, this time allowing the pressure to pump up to the maximum psi. Write this number down.

PSI should be above 85 psi per the FSM. Lower than this and the engine is in need of a rebuild. This engine will be prone to flood. It may however run for quite sometime, especially if it is NA.

90 psi+ should be enough to run reliably;

95 psi + is great,

100psi+ is excellent.

NOTE: All pressures will tend to be lower with longer hoses and higher with shorter hoses. Experts agree that ideally, the hose should be as short as possible; Best would be if the hose were eliminated and the unit screwed directly into the sparkplug hole essentially with the gauge as closely coupled to the compression chamber as possible.

NOTE 2: In general, Turbo II's will be lower numbers than NA, S4's will be lower than S5's.

NOTE 3: This write up is a compilation from several authors, Reted, Kevin Landers, Aaroncake and others combined, clarified and hammered into one place. The intent is to create consistent documented methodology in one place so that the newbs and accomplished alike can agree on the results.

thanks for throwing that all togeather in one post! very helpful for the first ever test.

this test and the numbers should all be the same for a 3rd gen right? (i know this might seem like a silly question but i just want to be sure)

Yes...

Of course...

Anything close to 100psi...

Find someone to help you or remove check valve and tape gauge to windshield if it's long enough...


-Ted