Code 12 and 18!!!!
 

Ok, I tried to play with my tps today and to no avail apparently I have fucked up the narrow range of it as well. Last time when I checked the codes, the full range or code 12 came on, now both 12 and 18 come on. Moreover, that little fucking spring on the tps doesn't move it outward when the thing is loosened. What the hell can I do? Should I try a different ohm meter cause I think the one my dad has is a series peice of shit. The car runs fine, just the fucking Check engine light comes on and I seriesly want to fix this little fucking bug. Thanks guys.

Bumpity Bump, Anyone please???

well you know what I had to do on both of mine.. even after mazcare adjusted them as best they could :)

Ok, seriously either it is way to early in the morning or I am a friggin tard. This is what I did, I put the probes, red into green and black into black, and started the car. I than played with that screw untill I got the damn thing around 1.0 I mean it hovered around1.3 and 0.8 which I thought was fine, now things just don't seem right. I don't really know, anyone got a working TPS cause I bet mine is stock shit and never been changed, thanks a lot guys. I am still baffled on how to fucking do it.

Ok guys...anyone? I used a "clamp" ohm meter that measured a lot of other stuff besides ohms....for instance DC and other stuff. Anyway should I just go to maybe radio shack and see how much they cost? Any ideas on price? Anyway.....does anyone have any ideas, just throw them out. I played with the scre and didn't move the tps by it'self. Thanks guys.

Digital meter from Radio Shack for about twenty bucks give or take three.

You probably already know this...
 

Above, you mention 'red into green and black into black, and started the car. I than played with that screw ...'

It was my experiance that then engine had to be HOT, not just warm, but, as hot as it was going to get after a good long drive. While I was adjusting my TPS, I had to be very careful not to push on the screwdriver and thereby change the position of the throttle plates, just a small amount of movement would upset the setting your trying to make. In fact as I was adjusting it I could hear the engine cooling down, in fact within a couple of minutes or less I could hear the relief solenoid click which was a sure sign that the engine had cooled too much to obtain the right setting.

Until I realized how important it was to have the engine HOT I tried many times without sucess to adjust the TPS and ended up with all sorts of strange results (engine codes, bouncing idle etc, etc). Now the idle is pretty much solid at 750-800rpm, there's a little bounce sometimes when I sit at a light with my foot on the brake, but this is probably a BAC or non related problem.

The accleration and smoothness when the TPS is adjusted properly is awesome, in fact I think that the car has never run smoother:D

Keep trying, it will eventually get there...

Thank you very much hailers, I will travel down there tommorow. Anyway is it JUST an ohm meter or a multi meter? Anyway, let me get this strait, I jam the probes into it the back of the TPS connector, it would be the 6 pin connector, red on green and black on black. Do I keep it connected or disconnect it? I know about the drive thing, I drove it 20 minutes in a local sand pit when it was around 80 degrees. So it was HOT!! Anyway, after I get resistance in the meter than play with the little bolt thing. However, my spring won't retract the two plates so they never spread out. Or maybe they don't need to I don't know....???