Clutch won't disengage
 

I Have an 84 gsl-se, 88 turbo II swap, 88 n/a Tranny. New clutch, pressure plate, throughout bearing, new master and slave cylinders... ok heres my problem,
With the car off I can shift through the gears without any problems. once I start it up push in the clutch and try and put it into gear if feels like the clutch is still fully engaged, I completely bled the hydraulic lines, and I can see the slave cylinder push on the fork... heres what’s weird if I jack up the back of the car with it running and try and shift it without putting in the clutch it dose the same thing but if I push in the clutch I can shift without any problems. So it seems that the clutch is partially disengaging, just not enough. Only problem is I can’t get any more length out of the pedal adjustment.

Oh yeah and it's a stage two clutch master. I don’t know if that means it has more meat or just more pressure.

With the rear wheels off the ground, and the trans in gear, engine off, if you push in the clutch (disengage it) you should be able to turn the rear wheels, to verify that the clutch actually does disengage. Have you tried that?

Bad hydraulics.

Replace your Master and slave cylinder.

I bet the Master cylinder is failing. It will push the clutch but not enough to disengage it.

Mazdatrix sells new ones for around $65 or you can buy a rebuild kit for like $15 and hope that will fix it.

Well it has all new hydraulics. I'll have to try spinning the wheels with it in gear and the clutch in.

something similar happened to a friend of mine on his nova turns out he installed the clutch in reverse but i have no idea if something similar can happen on a Rx-7

well I dont think it's on backwords, the guy who put it in knew what he was doing

Dose anyone know if there’s a difference between a N/A FC slave cylinder and a gsl-se FB slave cylinder.

similar problem with me before....clutch wouldnt disengage, replaced slave cylinder, rebuilt master cylinder, and still same problem....dropped tranny and this is what i found:
http://www.sebringfans.com/PHPNuke/h...view_album.php

Same thing happened on my 88' N/A while doing some "spirited" driving.

If you can. Push on the fork with something and then also have someone try to move the rear wheels IN GEAR with the car raised. If the wheels don't spin freely then you know its not your hydraulics. This is the way you could test your hydraulics. If the wheels do spin freely then it's your hydraulics not pushing the fork enough.

This way you know if it's your hydraulics or tranny and clutch plates.

...similar thing happened to a guy in my club. Turns out the pilot bearing failed and welded itself to the transmission input shaft.