Cluster swap s4 to s5
 

I swapped my cluster from the s4 to an s5. My s4 cluster i had put the gauges on and messed up some of the needles so thats why i decided to redo. I re pinned everything like it said on rotaryressurection everything works but something really confuses me. Either my tach on my old cluster or my new one is wrong. I have the gtech pro and after i did the swap the rps on the tach were higher than the gtech. Is there a way to check if my rpms are correct or do i just got to live with not knowing if my rpms are dead on or not?

Well, if you have an N/A... The s4 N/A's redline at 7k, the s5's at 8k. If the extra 1k rpm's are crammed into the same physical space as the s4's, than it would make sense that the needle wouldn't be accurate and would be off by around 1k at redline... maybe. lol. Is the needle starting out at 0 rpms? I know that if you mess with them they have a tendency to 'sag' a bit. After putting in rev. glow gauges into my N/A I screwed up the needle and I was off by over 1k (which isn't good when your redlining a lot like me). I wondered why I wasn't making any more power at '7.5k' lol.

No my cars idle is at 750, and i think i messed up my old cluster by putting the gauges on it, i dont think it matters that the tach goes up, it would just be like buying an aftermarket tach and putting it in there. But i didnt want to put that in there( to rice for me) and i dont intend on takeing my car past 9 grand. Does anyone know how you could check it?

If you chane the entire clusted the rpm
reading should be fine, you would be
using a S5 needing.

This was somewhat covered in a recient thread. The problem is that at 7000 RPM, Mazda allows a reading of about 6900 to 7600. So chances are that your tach is reading high. I prefer to think of it as a safety measure. If you're reading redline at over 7000, but the actual rpm's are only 6500, you're less likley to over rev your engine.

Alright thanks.