centerforce pressure plate weights? WITH PIC!
 

i just bought a new clutch, but its the same as the one that was in the car, but the one in the car is perfect, but was still slipping really really bad.

Are you supposed to remove the weights on the pressure plate? Heres a picture of what im talking about, they are around the center where the trans shaft goes into the clutch. Thanks!

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/100_6784.jpg

the weights stay. when rotating, the weights provide more pressure to the clutch disk due to centrifugal force.

i dont get why my clutch was slipping, although i did find out that the actuator that pushes the throwout bearing arm only had one bolt in it....

The flywheel is new, so is the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. what could be causing it to slip? There is no oil on the clutch disk, and its not leaking onto the ground, so that cant be it. WHAT IS WRONG!!!

BTW, the clutch kit is a Centerforce Dual Friction.

Thanks!!

Which car is this? are you putting out enough HP to make it slip? I've never had a CFDF slip, but I've only done modded NA's with them...

Dirty flywheel surface
Dirty pressure plate surface
Flywheel not resurfaced
Improper installation
Improper break-in


-Ted

its a 10th ae with an Rtek 1.7, 550/720 injectors, walbro pump, aeromotive fpr, stainless braided fuel lines, HKS ssqv, 3" downpipe, and a Garrett 60-1 on 7psi


does that mean i have to replace it if it was broken in wrong? Also, the flywheel was new, so i dont think it was ever resurfaced. the disk was slightly shinny, does that mean its toast?

The disk was slightly shiny, like glazed over?

yea but it wasnt too bad at all, it looked really good still, there is a TON of material left, hell theres only 2,300 miles on the new stuff! is there any way to get the glazing off or does it have to be changed? could i take a piece of scotch brite to it?

For starters, I AM NO EXPERT!!!! So have someone confirm me.

I believe a glazed clutch is a dead clutch, unless there is a way to take the glazing off evenly. Glazing happens (i think) when the clutch slips for an extended amount of time. It might have been caused by improper break in, as in you slipped the clutch a lot during break in.

if the disc is glazed that is yrou biggest problem... the teeth on the pressure plate may be worn out (or the clutch contact surface)

do u have a pic of the clutch disc and pressure plate that is currently in the car

not right now, but i can take a pic of it. there are also some small heat spots on the flywheel, do i need to have it resurfaced because of that? There are NO groves on it, or any kind of roughness at all.

and no one has mentioned the Centerforce Dual frictions happen to be junk? aside from sounding like it was improperly broken in its definetly NOT the best aftermarket clutch. Should have gone with an ACT

there was one other thing i forgot to mention, the slave cylinder only had one bolt in it! could that be the problem with it slipping? Thanks for all your help!

do you have real-world experience with the clutch in YOUR car? I've had nothing but good experiences with them in NA's... I haven't had a chance to try them in a TII yet.. perhaps they just suck for higher HP cars... But generalizing them as junk is stupid.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.

The centerforce is well known to blow goats in rotary applications. Some domestic guys have good luck with them, but the ACT is THE clutch to run on your rotary.

Yes, I have seen a few shitty CF clutch sets in my day, including burning one up with a mildly modded t2 myself. The thing wouldn't even grip well enough to do a burnout.

Meh... I've ran 3 of them on 3 different cars.. all NA's... never had a single problem.. never had one slip.

SO....would only having one bolt in the slave cylinder make it slip?

do you have play holding it in with ONE bolt? if it moves, yeah, if it doesnt.. i dont think so. tell someone to hit the clutch pedal and look at the friggen thing. that wil tell you.

well its already out of the car, i just want to fix everything before it goes back together so that i wont have to do it for a while. So, if theres another problem i want to make sure that its solved the first time.

there have been MORE than enough issues associated with the centerforce DF clutch, i chose NOT to find out the hard way, i searched before buying so excuse me for not wanting to waste my money. I'm more than pleased with my ACT HDPP and modified street disc. oh yeah and your using them on an N/A, ALL THE ISSUES APPEAR ON TII'S! The centerforce DF for N/A's has never really presented a problem. Stage 2 XTD though? Glazed one like a ham ^_^ on my N/A no less

CF is a crappy clutch from personal experience now my buddy has a high hp Datsun 240Z with a 280ZX T swap and his is doing GREAT but to be honest I would never... it is Spec or ACT for me

and unless the slave was moving back and forth it would not matter if there was one or two bolts in it..

I thought Centerforces had the goofy design that would eat up T/O bearings as well.

Wow, lots of BS from people who don't have any experience with the unit.

I, personally, run a Centerforce Dual Friction.
Granted, it isn't the best clutch, and I would easily recommend an ACT anyday.
I wouldn't call it "crap".
It had withstood a lot of abuse I've thrown at it.
In fact, I smoked the hell out of it trying to teach someone how to drive stick shift just today.
It's still working.
I wouldn't recommend the clutch to someone making close to 300 or over.
My FC has put down 254 at the wheels, and the clutch has worked flawlessly.
I did do an overkill break-in (cause I was breaking in the rebuild motor at the same time), so they might be very sensitive to break-in.

To the OP, post up the pics, and we can give you a better idea if something was wrong...


-Ted

Centerforce clutchs are known in the DSM/Turbo Mitsu world to Suck .. Get ACT or Clutchmasters. Centerforce clutches and TurboCards = headache..

NO

The slave cylinder RELEASES the clamping pressure on the clutch disk, so if a bolt is missing and/or the slave cylinder is loose you would have problems with the clutch disengaging all the way, not with slipping. However if it has been like this for some time then the clutch has been constantly wearing while the pedal is pressed in for any period of time (like a a light...if you do that) because the clutch is still somewhat engaged. This would DEFINITELY cause the clutch to glaze over.

The only other issue is if the rod inside the slave cylinder is too long, then there is constant pressure on the pressure plate and the clutch will slip. I actually fried a clutch this way, I believe the rods are not the same between NA and turbo and that is what caused my issue.

And have the flywheel turned... It is probably glazed and you shouldn't do things the ghetto way anyway...