car dies when on brakes...more grounds needed?
 

Well I finaly got my car to idle at around 1200 rpms. Still can't find a vacume leak but its had a hard life anyway. Recently after I cleaned the fitting that goes from the LIM to the power brake booster line, you guessed it, I got my power brakes back! But now the car doesn't like to idle with the brakes on. I have to heal-toe the gas and force the engine not to drop off and die when I step on the brakes with the clutch in. Grounding the coils and injector harness seems to help a little. I am going to ground the ECU next. Any other ideas? (and yeah, it needs a rebuild with a Weber IDA and massive ports.)

is your bypass air control system operating correctly? those brake light bulbs suck down more than 100 watts (collectively) of juice & put a good load on the engine...check the BAC valve per the FSM...

no BAC, no emissions, no bullsh$t. Just hard, raw horsepower....all that 60 lbs of compression can make...yeah it still runs!

mine does the same thing. I also have no BAC, etc...

I think the FD alternator will cure the problem. I have noted my battery voltage drops below 11.5 at times during braking at night with headlamps and accessories (gauges, external fuel pump, efan) running.

if you took out your BAC, then quit complaining about the stalling- that system has no affect on your horsepower at all...at best, tweak the idle adjust screw on the TB for a higher idle that MIGHT prevent stalling...

who was complaining? I can tell you that my weak 13.2V at idle and under load is definately not sufficient to run a lot of electrical accessories. I am pretty sure (99.9%) thats what is causing my problem - the car does not do it with the headlights off.

even if you put the FD 100-amp alternator on there, if you're sucking down 60-70 amps it's the ENGINE that has to produce the power to turn the alt, if you don't have a means to supply more idle air for the engine under load, you're still gonna have probs...I like removing as much non-essential BS from my car as I can, too, but it just doesn't make much sense to remove that BAC

Mine was non functional when i purchased my car, and it was much cheaper to build a blockoff plate than to replace the BAV valve. Thats the only reason why I removed it.

Have you checked the actual brake booster ? If you've just replaced the hose that runs to it, that would be the next thing i would check.

it only dies when I press the brake in and yes it is worse at night with the lights on. the car has no stereo or e-fan. I have been struggling with this and other niggly problems, like it not wanting to start cold and just a little hessitant to start when hot. I am sure a rebuild would cure this but I have just torn down a motor that was clearly blown up, yet would start cold just fine and idle nicer than mine. The only gasket I have not personaly replaced is the one for the UIM and Dynamic Chamber, which was not taken apart the last time I pulled the intake. It has idled better in the past and prior to me putting in a stock, unmollested Idle mixture strew, it seemed to do alot better. I think I am going to go back to my richened one if more grounds don't work. the problem seems to get worse as temps fall.

I'm seeing the same problem, only a little bit less drastic with my '88 TII.
Car runs best with no accessories on, I turned on the CD player the other night and the car started to run like a$$.
During the daytime, with nothing else running, I can press on the brake pedal at a stop, and watch the idle revs fall by 100 rpm. The same thing happens when I turn on my headlights or the radio.
May be bad grounds, but I put a ground kit on the engine and it got better for a while, but I suspect that it's just a weak alternator. I'll be putting my FD alternator on this week and I'll let you know if it improves anything.
I will be installing my turbo timer later on this week and I'll be redoing some grounds in the cockpit, I'll do each on separate nights and let you know if they both do anything.

I had same problem. New battery and alternator cured my woes. I just used the stock one also, no fd alt on mine. With all accesorieson my radio, 2 12's and a 1000 watt amp it runs fine..I bought everything at autozone

sounds good doriftwolf, let me know your progress.

Check your battery connections. This happened on my 88 SE. Turned out to be a very corroded terminal.