Can't Open Door
I'm unable to open my driver's side door from the inside or the outside.
Does anyone have any advice or tips for removing the interior door panel with the door locked? Since it won't open from either side, what do you think the problem is? |
That's a tough one. There are pop clips on the bottom of the door and a bunch of screws that need to come out. It depends a lot on the design of the door panel though, they do vary in terms of the location of the screws. You're going to have a lot of trouble getting access to certain things.
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It's an '87" Turbo II, so it has power everything.
I've been reluctant to take on this repair, but climbing in and out of the window has gotten ridiculous. And I'm just too big, and the car is too tiny, for me to keep climbing over from the passenger side. |
I can think of at least one screw that will be impossible to get access to with the door closed. It's tucked behind the door vent, near the mirror.
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I just noticed that while looking through the old Haynes manual....
I think I'm going to need a plan B. It feels like the inside handle is working but the lock won't disengage. |
Does anyone know where I can find a maroon driver's side door panel for the TII?
I'm worried that the only way to open this door is to sacrifice the panel. |
dude this is very simple. Use a slim jim to unlock it and or get the door rod to unlatch. I could do this in five minutes for you if I was near you, just slide it right above the door handle. A thin metal ruler would work just fine. Fix. Profit.
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If the inside handle still feels like it could work, try pressing the manual lock up (unlock) and try to open the door holding it up.
If it doesn't work, slim jim or coat hanger it. I got mine open in about 15 seconds when I was drunk. It shouldn't be that hard. |
If not 20 bucks to a local lock smith, the ones that come to you when you get locked out of your car.
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I've tried turning the key, pulling the handle and pulling the handle while pushing the door locks.
I'll go pick up a slim jim tomorrow and give that a try. I haven't been inside these doors, so I'm not sure what to expect. They are power doorlocks, so many a solenoid failed or something and not a broken handle or door lock? I just don't want to damage the quarter century old door panels, they are hard to find and fairly expensive. |
These doors are famous for either the pot metal on the outside handle breaking or the cheap little white clips that hold the rod to the handles breaking.
You'll see what I'm talking about when you open it. Neither of mine on my S5 open on the inside or outside. I have to climb in through the hatch all the time. |
ok man my door is fucked up and this happens to me. what you gotta do is roll the window down and take out as many screws as you can for teh door panel. then kinda puyll it from the door. now im not really sure what it is but something gets in the way of the lock and makes it so the lock cant unlock wiggle the lock, you'll find it. it needs to be flipped up. i think. and from now on when the door is locked dont try to open it or you'll have to do this everytime.
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No S4s had power door locks, so yours must have an aftermarket kit. Only some S5s had power passenger door locks. This is probably complicating the matter.
You could also remove the small cover behind the inner door handle to gain access to the rods inside the door. I'm not sure it would do much good, but they're what connects the inside lock to the tumbler/handle. |
I can visualize it in my head on how I'd open my door from the outside. Just get a ruler or something of that sort and push down on the white clip the latch rod clips into and there you go, the door opens up. Probably would help to have the window rolled down so you can see the white clip. But it kinda sounds like that main rod came off of the clip on the latch its self making it so neither of the handles will work in which case, get a flashlight and try and see down into the door to the latch and finding something to push down on its little lever that the rod goes onto. But damn, that sucks. Usually the outside door handle just breaks right where the rod clips on and I would have been able to tell you an easy way to fix that problem. This is an odd terrible problem.
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Originally Posted by Chris Boots
(Post 9988394)
I can visualize it in my head on how I'd open my door from the outside. Just get a ruler or something of that sort and push down on the white clip the latch rod clips into and there you go, the door opens up. Probably would help to have the window rolled down so you can see the white clip. But it kinda sounds like that main rod came off of the clip on the latch its self making it so neither of the handles will work in which case, get a flashlight and try and see down into the door to the latch and finding something to push down on its little lever that the rod goes onto. But damn, that sucks. Usually the outside door handle just breaks right where the rod clips on and I would have been able to tell you an easy way to fix that problem. This is an odd terrible problem.
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This car has sat idle for the the better part of 15 years.
The door handle issue manifest itself while I had the car up in NY over the winter, during a freeze.' I don't have a slim jim, so I'll have to go pick one up. It sounds like a long shot, but it's worth a try... Otherwise, I guess I remove all the visible screws and hope I can bend the panel enough to get behind it. It'd be difficult enough in a roomy car.. |
At least Mark VIII's don't have inner handle failures eh ;)
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Originally Posted by kustomizingkid
(Post 9992883)
At least Mark VIII's don't have inner handle failures eh ;)
I didn't realize that we were both black T2 owners. |
I found the problem, though I can't explain it.
Removed the door panel enough to get the job done, no damage caused. The door panels had never been removed on this car before. The problem was behind the outside handle. I'm not exactly sure how to explain this, but when you lift the exterior handle, you essentially are pulling up a lever. That puts a downward load on a mechanism within the door. It also has a fulcrum, but it's secured with a rivet on a coil spring/spacer. And I THINK there's a rubber stopper that prevents this from pivoting. When I looked in, rather than being level, the level was pitched. I pushed a ruler in, leveling it, and the door opened up without problem. I didn't see anything that would tighten or adjust it,but I did see something resembling a spacer, so I pushed that into place. It seems to be the fit. That's a horrible explanation. I'd take photos, but I don't think I could capture in on camera. And the cars doesn't have power door locks, but the factor "theft deterrent system." |
Interesting...
I fixed an accord this winter with what sounds like a semi similar problem... |
You could take the handle out and take pictures but it's probably not worth it.
At least you got it open. I would have cut the panel a long time ago. |
Originally Posted by RTRx7
(Post 9995239)
You could take the handle out and take pictures but it's probably not worth it.
At least you got it open. I would have cut the panel a long time ago. |
i have the same problem with opening it through the outside. can anyone make a video on how to fix that?
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Unbelievable.
It just did it again. Good thing for the thread, otherwise I was having trouble remembering what I had had to do. :blush: |
I'm gonna ask for a refund on my Lasik..
I couldn't see Crap! |
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