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Im rebuilding my wiring harness and as such im redoing the engine wiring so im getting new battery cables for my starter.
Can someone help confirm that Im correct with my wiring in the image below?
A - gets the battery positive wire that runs from the battery positive terminal.
B - gets the battery negative wire that runs from the battery negative terminal.
C - gets no wire. it just has the wiring for the starter internals
D - gets the battery spade that should get 12v with the key in ignition.
I would look into adding the starter relay to this while you are down there
I used this one off amazon, color coding is for the wires that come with the harness and what they connect to, middle wire is looped back on itself and shrink wrapped so it does not come in contact with anything
Just out of curiosity, why would you add an additional relay? The solenoid in the starter is all that's being powered by that circuit, so I don't think much current is running through the ignition switch as-is.
Standard wiring does not send enough power to push the solenoid that engages the gear, so you just get the "click, click, click" when trying to start and no cranking, this sends full power to it so it engages properly and cranks every time.
That's interesting, I'd never heard of that. I do occasionally get a "click" and then need to try a second time to actually turn the starter, so maybe I'll add one myself.
Click, click, vroom is frustrating in that it presents as some other issue. I had it for a long time, even with a fresh battery (once the car was back on the road) and even with a new starter (replaced during the engine build). I eventually put in a relay and have never had the issue again.
The working theory is over time, the resistance builds up in the trigger wire and it's not enough to engage the solenoid, but it will trigger a relay. I suspect click, click, vroom could be immediately and permanently resolved by replacing ALL the wiring from ignition switch to starter. However, that requires a decent bit of work when installing a relay fixes it and can be done in 20 minutes.
Click, click, vroom is frustrating in that it presents as some other issue. I had it for a long time, even with a fresh battery (once the car was back on the road) and even with a new starter (replaced during the engine build). I eventually put in a relay and have never had the issue again.
The working theory is over time, the resistance builds up in the trigger wire and it's not enough to engage the solenoid, but it will trigger a relay. I suspect click, click, vroom could be immediately and permanently resolved by replacing ALL the wiring from ignition switch to starter. However, that requires a decent bit of work when installing a relay fixes it and can be done in 20 minutes.
Mazda added the clutch safety switch in 1987, and that switch gets old and dirty and is one of the causes of the click click start thing
the circuit was designed without the switch there. switch is also North America only until like 2000 or something
Mazda added the clutch safety switch in 1987, and that switch gets old and dirty and is one of the causes of the click click start thing
the circuit was designed without the switch there. switch is also North America only until like 2000 or something
That probably helps explain why it hasn't been a bigger issue for me. 1986 model, so no clutch safety switch on mine.
Interestingly there is a separate clutch switch though. It goes to the ECU and apparently when the clutch is depressed it raises the idle target by about 50rpm for easier starts in 1st gear.
In your diagram, terminal D gets +12V when the ignition key is turned to the "START" position. That +12V passes through the 15A ENGINE fuse when the ignition is switched on, then through the starter cut relay which makes contact (after passing thru the clutch safety switch) when the ignition switch is in the START position, and then to the starter motor. So, you've got a series of electrical contacts -- starter cut relay, clutch safety switch and spade terminal at starter -- that this current must pass through before reaching the starter motor. As was mentioned above, if any of these contacts are corroded, than the voltage at the starter will be reduced and the starter will not engage. You'll get the annoying clicking during starting attempts. Here is some more detailed info on this: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...u-2-a-1160447/
