Gets hot and wont start warm
#1
Cops hate me!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Del Norte, CO
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gets hot and wont start warm
My 7 runs great... but after you warm it up and shut it off, it seems like it floods... and after that it gets warm for no real reason... any takes? Thanks!
#3
I have a 2nd gen and the same problem happens. I have searched these archives and have found nothing. I have found that as long as I dont put additives in the tank, and I don't use gas with ethanol in it. The car usuallay starts.
This is wierd, but the car always starts cold. If I drive it several places, or for long distance on the interstate and shut it off and then try to start it, it will initially attempt to start, but will die and will not start for some two hrs. if it doesn't start on the FIRST ATTEMPT. I have found my key is to make sure the car starts on the first attempt. I will run the rpm's to about 2500 to 3000 far a few secs and the car runs fine. I believe it has to do with the low compression, etc. This is what has worked for me. Please let me know if this helps, or not. It is EXTREMELY frustrating for the car to not start.
It ALWAYS starts when cold! Go figure!
Jim
This is wierd, but the car always starts cold. If I drive it several places, or for long distance on the interstate and shut it off and then try to start it, it will initially attempt to start, but will die and will not start for some two hrs. if it doesn't start on the FIRST ATTEMPT. I have found my key is to make sure the car starts on the first attempt. I will run the rpm's to about 2500 to 3000 far a few secs and the car runs fine. I believe it has to do with the low compression, etc. This is what has worked for me. Please let me know if this helps, or not. It is EXTREMELY frustrating for the car to not start.
It ALWAYS starts when cold! Go figure!
Jim
#5
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the same problem. If it doesn't start on the first try I have to take out the EGI fuse and turn it over a few times and it will start right up. I am guessing it might be low compression. The car will turn over but it seems like it is flooded. Although after a few hours or so it starts right up?
Cold start = no problem, Hot start = no start
Cold start = no problem, Hot start = no start
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: St, Louis, MO
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am having the exact same problem. My 88 turbo starts fine cold, but recently will not start at all after it gets hot. Died on the road the other day and I couldn't get her going.
I will try and replace the plugs, check injectors, and check compression. I also have recently installed a upgraded ECU from Digital Tuning Inc. (i don't know if this has anything to do with it or not) My engine has 106K miles on it, so compression may be an issue.
I will try and replace the plugs, check injectors, and check compression. I also have recently installed a upgraded ECU from Digital Tuning Inc. (i don't know if this has anything to do with it or not) My engine has 106K miles on it, so compression may be an issue.
Trending Topics
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
99% of the time leaky injectors and poor compression causes the warm no start problems.
the other 1% is related to a blown transistor in the ECU, but make no false assumptions, the blown transistor causing the problem is very very very very very very rare and related to someone testing the BAC with a testlight rather than a digital multi-meter.
the other 1% is related to a blown transistor in the ECU, but make no false assumptions, the blown transistor causing the problem is very very very very very very rare and related to someone testing the BAC with a testlight rather than a digital multi-meter.
#11
Rotary Freak
my car starts fine from cold start but after driving it for 10 minutes or so it shuts off and wont start at all after that until its cooled off then it starts up fine also sometimes when it shuts off if i hook up jump cables to it and jump start it it will start up and when im in neutral i rev it up and let the rpm's go back down it almost dies unless i give it gas are all these problems related please help want to get my 7 back on the road for summer also its a new engine with only 35,000 miles on
#14
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Well in order of what to do first:
1. Check compression (this is done at WOT with the coils disconnected). If it is below 90 at any point consider a rebuild (unless this is a new rebuild with less than 2K miles on it, then it is normal for some flooding to occur).
If the compression is okay:
2. The injectors should be taken out and professionally cleaned ultrasonicly as well as for flow. This is not sidestepped by dumping injector cleaner in the tank. At best injector cleaner in the tank, running at 2 or 3 times the recommended levels might wash a little crud out, but not really clean a stuck injector. The stuff sold by oil change shops is even worse, and won't clean an injector if their life depended on it.
If compression is good, and the injectors have been cleaned, and the car has a recent (within 10K miles) 60K tune up (plugs, filters, fluids, O2, etc)
#3 Then I would look at swapping ECUs.
1. Check compression (this is done at WOT with the coils disconnected). If it is below 90 at any point consider a rebuild (unless this is a new rebuild with less than 2K miles on it, then it is normal for some flooding to occur).
If the compression is okay:
2. The injectors should be taken out and professionally cleaned ultrasonicly as well as for flow. This is not sidestepped by dumping injector cleaner in the tank. At best injector cleaner in the tank, running at 2 or 3 times the recommended levels might wash a little crud out, but not really clean a stuck injector. The stuff sold by oil change shops is even worse, and won't clean an injector if their life depended on it.
If compression is good, and the injectors have been cleaned, and the car has a recent (within 10K miles) 60K tune up (plugs, filters, fluids, O2, etc)
#3 Then I would look at swapping ECUs.
Last edited by Icemark; 05-15-04 at 08:55 PM.
#15
Haven't we ALL heard this
Ok, mine (91 TII) has a hot start problem.
However, it ALWAYS starts if I floor the pedal and cut the fuel injectors.
Does that lend it self to being something other than compression?
James
However, it ALWAYS starts if I floor the pedal and cut the fuel injectors.
Does that lend it self to being something other than compression?
James
#17
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Wankel7
Ok, mine (91 TII) has a hot start problem.
However, it ALWAYS starts if I floor the pedal and cut the fuel injectors.
Does that lend it self to being something other than compression?
James
Ok, mine (91 TII) has a hot start problem.
However, it ALWAYS starts if I floor the pedal and cut the fuel injectors.
Does that lend it self to being something other than compression?
James
Remember flooring the accell (weither the engine is running or not) turns the MOP on full, bringing up compression, if there is a bad seal
#19
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Wankel7
REALLY, very interesting. Even in a s5?
James
REALLY, very interesting. Even in a s5?
James
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: St, Louis, MO
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Some more data: I replaced the plugs, checked timing and BAC valve. The engine idles down(almost dies) when I remove the connector on the BAC valve when it is running, so I think its working. I also took out the Digital Tuning Chip and put the stock chips back in. Still have the Hot start trouble, but removing the EGI fuse, cranking a bit, and reinstalling the fuse, does get it started again. I tried a compression test with a testor I purchased at Auto Zone, but I'm not sure if I did it right or not. I read somewhere you have to pull out the little check valve in the hose fitting or something? on the testor? How do I check the injectors?
#21
Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't this also be caused by bad coolant seals? The engine warms up, building pressure in the coolant system, and then when the engine is shut off the coolant leaks into the combustion chamber.
-Joe
-Joe
#22
Haven't we ALL heard this
It would seem that it would smoke like hell if you let the car cool down and restart though. That would give you an indication it is burning something on start.
Do you have any smoke on cold starts?
James
Do you have any smoke on cold starts?
James
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: St, Louis, MO
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A little puff of smoke on the cold start which has been there since I owned the car(8 yrs). Probably a little oil burning off? Nothing else to speak of. Even when its flooded and I've been cranking,flooding,cranking etc.. It does not seem to make much smoke. What about the leaking injector idea? I need a little assistance on the compression test procedure, I'd like to rule that out as a possibility of the problem.
#24
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by OverDriven
Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't this also be caused by bad coolant seals? The engine warms up, building pressure in the coolant system, and then when the engine is shut off the coolant leaks into the combustion chamber.
-Joe
Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't this also be caused by bad coolant seals? The engine warms up, building pressure in the coolant system, and then when the engine is shut off the coolant leaks into the combustion chamber.
-Joe
#25
Originally posted by Icemark
again that would show up as a low compression issue
again that would show up as a low compression issue
-Joe