Brake Upgrade.... Suggestions
 

So I was thinking about upgrading the following brake parts for my 1990 GXL (4-pots front cailpers) for auto-x and touge use, please let me know what you think and if you have any suggestions on which brand to get or other parts that I'm missing that would be great:

1, New OEM Front / Rear Rotors
2, Stainless Steel Lines .... Brand??
3, Brake Pads .... Brand??? (thinking Hawks)
4, Caliper Rebuild Kits from MazdaTrix
5, Flush Brake Fluid

That's all I can think of for now. Suggestions are welcomed :tank:

mazdatrix stainless brake lines are good...so are racing beat

+2 for the Mazdatrix lines. I have those on two cars and they work wonders compared to stock lines.

1. Rotora slotted rotors
2. Mazdatrix or RB lines
3. Hawk HP or HP+ pads, or Porterfield RS4s
4. Rebuild? Only if you need it.
5. Dot 4 fluid

.......

+1

thats what I am doing except on single piston brakes....Lets see how this turns out lol.

You mean work wonders as compared to the 15+ years old rubber lines? I wonder why.

The 4-piston brakes are quiet good. For your lighter duty purposes (I'm pretty sure that touge is still lighter duty) you probably don't need to do anything other than ensure that the brakes are in good condition.

If you get Ford Spec DOT3 brake fluid it will raise the dry boiling point to 550F and its really cheap. The downside is that it needs to be replaced more often.

A mild performance pad like a Hawk HPS or EBC Green should be more than sufficient and not cause undue wear to your rotors. Hawk HP+ would be a decent choice as well, but are ment for a little higher operating temperatures than the usual street stuff.

I would reccomend using Porterfield R4-S compound, or Hawk HPS/HP+ if your going to be driving the car on the street, and want an upgraded pad. Those compounds are a huge improvement over stock, and can be driven both on the street and the track.

I'd get plain rotors over slotted, they're much cheaper and are just as good, if not better.

You can get Brembo replacement rotors from http://www.speedycarparts.com for $38.95ea front and $48.95ea rear. They have free shipping too. That's the cheapest I was able to find for Brembos (not drilled or slotted).

-chris

Personaly this is what im going with for my full brake upgrade... approx cost $700.

1. Brembo X-drilled/slotted Rotors
2. SS braided lines
3. EBC Green Stuff Pads
4. Flush system
5. Tighten up e-brake
6. Rebuild calipers (30$ OEM rebuild kit) and paint gloss black(my GTX is black)

Most of this stuff ill buy on rx7 store.

i used ebc green stuff pads they weren't new when i started i did 2 days sprinting a day hill climbing and a day rallying they were great for all three. worked well both hot and cold and didn't eat discs. just fitted some mazdatrix braided lines and got some drilled and slotted rotors from them too not tried them out yet but they look great.

This is the most basic brake upgrade you can do. Basically what I have on my car except I have oe pads.

SS mazdatrix brake lines
IRotors.com x-drilled, slotted rotors
Single piston calipers.

Cork sport sells larger rotors for the rear which will help out a bit.

I got my rotors from Irotors.com and they are some very good strong rotors. I have put them to the test in a few unexpected senarios.

here is some info on brake fluid
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html

I've heard bad things about the SS brake lines (Mazdatrix).

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=brake+lines
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=brake+lines
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=brake+lines

here is exactly what I sell and use and I have NO PROBLEMS and I use this stuff on auto X and never glaze etc

Centric posi-quiet CERAMIC pads in rear and Axxis delux in front
blank rotors (centric)
Castrol GTLMA (dot3/4)
stock rubber hoses work just perfectly fine.
if the calipers are not leaking dont worry about rebuilding them



pads are:
45.00 shipped front
45.00 shipped rear

brake rotors are:
front 55.00 shipped
rear with SOLID rotors: 85.00 shipped pr
rear with VENTED rotors: 55.00 shipped pr

You can get plain rotors from Napa for under $25 each.

yeah now add in the shipping charge on rotors and the price will go up.. rotors weigh a bit..

I am under 25.00 each if u add shipping charges in the quote..

but anywho it is just a suggestion some people want to go for quality over the bare bones chinese crap

Don't ever get x-drilled rotors. They crack FAR easier that normal rotors and don't work any better. If you are just getting them for the look, get the Pro Stop rotors that have dimples.
I think that the best upgrade for the money is this:
New OEM lines
Hawk HPS brake pads (the best I have ever seen for the street)
Cryo tread rotors from frozenrotors.com
Simple, and all you will ever need for the street. You can also get generic OEM replacements if you want.
I have a dead stock braking system other than HPS pads, and it stops amazingly well with no fade at all. It took repeated (5+) consecutive stops from 120-40 before I could induce fade, and this might have been because I was using the generic brake fluid they put in when they replaced my rotors.
If you take it to the track you can throw on some HP+ or Blue/Black (for serious track time) pads. They can overly wear the rotors though, (espeically the blue/black pads) so remove them when not on the track. With the HP+ you can at least leave them on to drive home, but the otheres will chew threw rotors like nobodys business.

This depends HIGHLY on the material used, how many holes there are and how close together the holes are. To many people say this and its far from the truth when you deal with the right rotors. I would have to agree with the performance margin though. I find no big difference.

Axxis ultimate pads are GREAT pads for touge.

Well most people can just go pick the rotors up from Napa, so no shipping is needed.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakelines.htm

What are the chances that a teflon/stainless braided line will burst out of nowhere like this?

I want the increased pedal firmness (over the 16 year-old rubber lines :p), but I obviously don't want lines that are liable to burst after a few years of use.

I could have sworn I heard a story of a 300ZX having them burst on a track somewhere, as well.

For the number of times I've heard of this actually happening I think it's a pretty rare occurance. I'd say that new SS lines are definetely going to be more reliable than 16-21 year old original FC lines.