Alright I will get the ss brake lines, also I thought it was overkill because I imagined that they would be needed for really hard long track use. But if that will help me stop, its got my order!

Thanks for the reason ArtofRuin.

FYI: money is sort of an option, but these pads, rotors, and lines are definitely in my budget.

No problem. Quick FYI: SS brake lines DO NOT decrease stopping distance. They DO improve pedal feel by reducing compliance in the brake lines, thereby firming it up. Being confident in your brakes allows you to drive faster. Since you're doing brake work anyways, you might as well upgrade while you're at it, since the lines on your car are most likely old.

One other thing you can do to reduce pedal softness is build a brace for your brake master cylinder (don't worry, this one's optional. And cheap!):

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-diy-brake-master-cylinder-brace-718744/

Depends...
 

So by stiffing the the area around the Brake Master Cylinder, my brake peddle will be more responsive?

I haven't done this to my car yet, but I have driven someone else's S4 with this mod. Even with the rubber brake lines, the brake pedal felt much better than stock.

yea, the whole idea of the brace is to limit the movement when you step on the brake pedal. It moves the piston in the master cylinder, which also moves the master cylinder itselfs.

I planned on doing this mod myself in the comming weeks.

I'll do this as well than, its basically free.

I am telling you man, get a good set of lifetime rotors like Brembo or Wagner on the front and run some really aggressive pads all the way around. That way every time you need new brake pads you get free rotors. I have saved lots of money doing this over time. Win!

Do I do this at NAPA? I'm all for saving money:icon_tup:

Oh, forgot but my rotors are glazed, so I think they don't work right, or can be replaced.:(

On my car anyway, my rotors was glazed up, but after a week with my hp+ hawks, it wasnt glazed anymore lol. The pads are aggressive to the point where it will eat the rotors to an even surface wear.
I dont know about other people though since this is the first time I saw this happened on my car. usually when I buy pads, I also buy new rotors.

If you go with new rotors, just know that they don't always come off the shelf with true face. I know this from experience.

Use the old rotors, or get new rotors. It's cheap insurance to have them turned either way before installing/reinstalling.

Me, considering your old rotors have grooves (shape on you for letting your brakes go so long), I'd have them mic'd to get indication if they can even be salvaged. That check will probably answer you question on which way to go all by itself.

For me, if they can be turned and still be thicker than discard thickness, just have them turned.

Further, I have slotted/ cross drilled rotors on one FC and slotted on the other. Going forward, I'll probably just go stock rotors. The slots/crossdrilled didn't seem to really make much difference. For practical street driving applications, they're pretty much just bling bling.

However, the pads you use make ALL the difference. So I like George84's suggestion most of all.

Don't Shame me!! Its the previous owners fault, I haven't had this car for a month yet!

Ok, George84's suggestion is a really good idea, I would like to get the brakes and rotors at a store that has Brembo rotors and Hawk pads. further up was mentioned NAPA has brembo, but who has hawks?

You really need to have two complete sets of matched pads and rotors for that to work correctly.

I liked the Hawk HPS pads for street use. I have also had good luck with the cheaper Axxis Metal Masters, and the Porterfield R4-S were good and didn't spew dust all over the wheels like most high-performance metallic pads. Even OEM would be fine for your use. Fortunately, these cars have excellent stock braking systems.

As far as mushy brakes, that is almost always fixed by replacing the brake fluid. Castrol LMA works great for street/autocross and is only about $4 for the smaller 12oz bottle. I also like ATE Super Blue because you can tell for sure when you have bled the old fluid from the line when you see the fluid change color from amber to blue.

Also, be careful when swinging the caliper back in place. If you try to slam it back in place with the piston still sticking out a bit, then the rubber boot can catch and rip when it gets pounded against the sharp edge of the brake rotor.

^^dually noted