Brake problem???
 

Well, last night it drove about 2 mins away (to the other side of campus) and when i got back, my buddy that was riding with me, didnt close the door all the way. So when i tried to crank it today to drive back home, it was dead. So i had a friend of mine help me jump. Well that went fine. But as soon as i started driving, my brakes were "messed" up i guess. Well, i have to push the brake ALL THE WAY, and it still doesnt stop as hard. Its hard. It takes alot of time for it to slow down. I have to time everything. Does anyone have any idea what it can be...??? It sucks driving it around like that. It cant be anything with the battery right? or the fact that i had to jump it. I just listed everything since the last point that the brakes were fine.

Sounds like the symptoms of when my master cylinder failed.

In other words, i would have to replace it? If so, how much was it?

The bumps have been deleted. Bumps are forbidden in the 2nd gen technical section.

If the brake pedal goes all the way down, you either have a bad brake master cyl or a leak in the system, or have bad soft lines.

Pretty cut and dry, and is going to be one of those things.

As far as cost, it would depend on what was wrong and if you did the work yourself

Considering it to be the most expensive of them all. How much would that be? And replacing it, should be pretty straight forward, right?

yeah but a replacement master cyl at most auto parts stores is only $65

i had a question about this also.
my brakes are way too soft.
it takes a while for a complete stop.
i recently swapped over from 4 lug to gxl 5 lug.
i have soft lines all over. didnt think it was a problem at the time..
but im wondering if thats the reason why my brakes dont "bite" anymore, or could it be either the master or slave cylinder is acting up and needing replacement? my brake lines on my master cylinder are rusted FYI.. doubt thats the reason for the problem tho.

Did you switch up to 4-piston calipers at the same time?
If so, you may need to upgrade to the other model's booster/MC to regain good pedal feel- not sure how much difference there might be between the parts.

If by "soft lines" you mean "stock rubber lines" (instead of braided steel replacements), in my experience, the rubber lines would have to be very near failure to solely account for really bad pedal feel.

Properly bleed the system.

If the pedal is still soft afterwards, change the master.

If its still a problem, check and verify that all your calipers are free (not siezed)

That is true... but we do have some members that have 200K miles and up, which is time the stock rubber lines should be replaced with new stock rubber lines.

Of course I no longer recommend SS lines for street use. I have seen failure on SS flex lines in as little as 10K miles.

Really? Which makes? I've been eyeing up a few different ones lately but am leary of anything thats sans DOT approval.

all, The last set I used (and what made me finally swear off them) was a Goodrich set.

I have been working on these cars for 20+ years, and have replaced countless brake lines, but it's the SS ones that all start leaking first. This last set was even the plastic coated ones, and they ended up leaking as well with the plastic coating swelling up and filling up with brake fluid when you pushed the pedal in.

SS lines have no place in a street car. Stick with the OEM rubber lines. They are less than the SS lines and last 1000% longer.

What are the SS lines?

Stainless Steel braided brake lines.

Typically they are brake lines that are teflon or rubber cores, covered with a stainless steel mesh, and for street use often covered in a clear plastic coating over the mesh.

okay, what i mean by the rubber lines.. you know where the brake line comes off the body, and then screws on to the line that goes to the calipers?.. well both are rubber, and i remember going to the junkyard and seeing a couple of calipers having metal lines where i have rubber lines.. it was a bad incident which made me do the conversion fast and didnt have the previlidge of going step by step.. my old 7 got towed away before i had a chance to get the passenger side... and had no way of moving it, no did i have room to move it too... =(

Can you guys explain to me real quick how to bleed the lines???

I know i have to start from the furthest one away and loosen the valves and pump the brakes but:

But once i loosen the valve, dont i close it to where nothing will come out, then have my brother pump on the gas, then i open it up and let everything out. Then close back up and do it again?

Or does the valve have to be open when my brother is pumping the brakes?

Well, i found the "problem." There is a TINY, but i mean TINY hole in the hard piping in the engine bay, where it is squirting out. I blead the rear brake lines, and was working on the front passenger brake, and noticed that it was squirting out, and the next thing i notice is a drip. Looked up on the engine bay, and had my brother pump the brakes, and there it was. On the left side of the motor.

Any suggestions on fixing it? Auto parts stores are closed right now, so i need something for now?

Odd to use but they sell a black gasket sealant you can use as a temorary fix ... and I meen temp, like only to get to the store and back. I have used it in times of need you don't think of it at first but if you have it it works.