BOV question...
 

A friend is getting a good price on the TurboXS Type-S BoV (5-15psi) which will be fine for me till next summer, and wants to know if it requires a flange?

www.rx7.com sells the bov for the 2nd gen, but doesn't mention anything about a flange and it's universal, so Im curious if I can still use it and RX7.com is just not listing extra info required to install it?

Thanks in advance!

- Jason

Bump~

No one has a TurboXS BoV at all? Or knows the answer to this?!? I would be amazed if not :)

There are two options. The unversal adapter plumbs right in the spot the stock one went, right into the rubber hose. It is also possible to weld it to a flange that goes on the IC piping somewhere.

i have the type h racing bypass valve, and this is how i hooked it up
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/ecarlson/bov.jpg
and then i put a rubber plug in the tid so the bov could be vented to the atmosphere

I have never bothered with a BoV, is what you did easy rage? It's kinda hard to tell exactly what you did, as I haven't had a chance to look at mine to see how everything connects down there (cold still :( )

It's a good deal and I don't really want to miss it since he can't get it after Friday, but Im not sure if it would be more logical to go with a RX-7 specific one?

Thanks

- Jason

it took about 10 mins to put that bov on.

supplies: 3 hose clamps, radiator hose w/ outerdiameter that matches this little metal cylinder that will go into the bottom of the bov, clear hose with innerdiameter that matches the outter diameter of the rad hose and the metal cylinder, and a rubber stopper.

put the metal cylinder into the bov, cut the rad hose so that it will curve a little and not hit the strut tower, and then cut a small section of the clear hose and put it over the metal cylinder on the bov, and then slide the rad hose to meet the bottom of the cylinder, then place the hose clamps over where the clear hose overlaps both pieces(uses 2 clamps), then attach the other end of the rad hose to where the stock bov plumbed into the intercooler piping, and use a hose clamp to tighten that down. then use the rubber stopper to plug the hole where the stock bov plumbed into the intake. voila :)

i can try to take some better pictures if u want

and the metal cylinder that i'm talking about is either of the brass or aluminum ones in this picture
http://www.rx7.com/pics/turboxs-types.jpg

Hehe ok, making more sense to me now :) Still curious, friend who is ordering owns a shop and keeps asking me if I need a flange...any clue?

More detailed pics would be GREAT if you could....shoot me an email
spyder@rocket-arena.com

Thanks, appreciated....

- Jason

ummm, if u wanted to do it the "right" way, u would use the flange and get it welded to the intercooler piping. but for us poor people, spending a couple of dollars at home depot is good enough, plus it works just fine. i'll try to get some more pics tommorrow for ya

erik

Hehe, well if the "poor people" way works just as good as the expensive way...no sense in paying for the work if it's no better.

Thanks for the help rage, appreciated :)

I decided to order the BOV, since my friend made me a deal with a boost controller, I couldn't pass it up lol.

- Jason

hey, i got some more pics......i'll email em to ya

Ahh post them please I am interested in this also.

Thanks

ok, here are the pics for all you poor people like me:)
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/ecarlson/bov1.jpg
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/ecarlson/bov2.jpg
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/ecarlson/bov3.jpg

Right on, I just got my TurboXS type H today ... Is this method really just as effective as getting it welded? I am looking to eliminate compressor surge .. if this method is not as good I will pay to get it welded... Y/N?

thx

I got a flange but it doesnt seem like it would work the same ways as this setup? My flange is set up so the bov sits on it with two larger openings where one would be used for the intercooler piping but where is the other end supposed to go? the tid? new at this and just a little confused. if it does go to the tid then whats the point if yours is plugged? or this that even a plug in it?

I was also told that if you do not recirculate the air that is being sent into the atmosphere instead of back into the intake system that it will run badly and throw codes...

eliminating compressor surge is all about getting a good, separate vacuum source for the BOV. drill and tap the ACV blockoff plate with a 1/8 NPT --> 3/16" barbed fitting (if that is the correct hose size). OR hook your BOV to its own existing vacuum nipple. Try the lowest nipple on the front of the UIM, or the lowest nipple on the rear if you have done the TB mod and don't need that nipple for the water thermovalve on the TB.

I had bad luck hooking it to that side nipple on the UIM where the stock pressure sensor goes. compressor surged... this is a greddy type s welded to my aftermarket aluminum intercooler piping

Bump on my question!

no it wont the only thing that will happen is on deceleration you will backfire.

It may. If the system is set up to recycle and you vent to atmosphere instead, your engine will run extremely rich anytime you let off on the accelerator (coasting, shifting) because the turbo continues to draw in air through the AFM, confusing the ecu about what part of the fuel map to use and conflicting with the TPS reading. Also, you'll likely idle horribly as well, since cheaper BOVs don't usually handle vacuum well and leak, bypassing the AFM and causing an RPM lope.

The solution is to relocate the afm to between the BOV and throttle body, though this only works for S5s since you'll blow the inspection plate off an S4 AFM.

no....if you have a leaking BOV throw it away...it will not hurt you car or throw any codes or idle funny you will only run rich on deceleration.

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html

While not mentioned, relocating the AFM fixes any problems you might have changing an ABV to a BOV. You lose no metered air, it doesn't get bypassed, and the AFM readings have no significant difference between ambient and boosted airflow.

Now after having to deal with a lot of problems with BOV's, I can actually chime in on this.

I used an adapter that plugged right in between the hose from the intercooler. I am having to weld an extra nipple onto that adapter, however. There's a small pipe near the bottom of the intercooler, the BACV. Make sure that is still connected after everything is done.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...25036649_0.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...25037444_0.jpg
That hose needs to be connected. If not, it will suck in ambient air, which is SUPER lean, and cause the car to idle and run horribly. That would be the main reason after everything is said and done, for any problems.

Just block off the opening to the intake, and make sure your hoses are clamped down and you shouldn't have any problems. No codes will get thrown, but as mentioned before, you will backfire quite a bit while decelerating.

you linked to a page for toyota alltrac's and still on that page it doesnt say anything about the car suffering from sideaffects of a BOV i will state again if you have a BOV that works properly you will have no problems except run a little rich but thats not really a problem.

Doesn't matter the site, but admittedly I was hoping to find something better and more to the point of placing a BOV into a system made for a bypass/recirculating air valve. Regardless, it covered the point that dropping in a BOV after an AFM causes a significantly rich situation in more than just a decelerating case--rather any case where you snap the throttle assembly shut and the turbo is spooled--to the point where it can stall the car out, not just create a backfire. If you have a BOV installed after the AFM and have zero hesitation, count yourself lucky. It doesn't mean all TIIs will handle things exactly the same. A rich fuel burp isn't damaging, no, but it's not a good condition either, especially if you're autocrossing or in any kind of driving situation that requires frequent footwork and shifting. The constant hiccups in power get very annoying.

A BOV doesn't have to be broken to not function properly. A cheap eBay BOV may still open slightly at idle no matter what you set the sensitivity to.

Edit: As for the code, I was running under the assumption that constantly causing a conflict between the TPS registering idle and the AFM reading moderate load should eventually send up a red flag with the ecu. If not, well then, guess not. I don't have any fault codes committed to memory.

in all the stock rx7's that have BOV that are open to the atmosphere i have never seen one stall out because of it and i autocross my fc and there are no hiccups in power if you have problems with your car stalling then your BOV is not adjusted right it is creating a huge vacuum leak which can lead your car to stall but as i said before if your BOV is working properly then there would be no problem.