Blown fuse from starter to battery
 

Hi guys I've got my battery in rear bin and have always had an inline fuse coming of the battery, now I have a distribution box with the starter and alternator wire coming in one side (2) 100amp fuses in the box, and the power cable going to the battery on the otherside. Everytime I turn the key to try and start the car the fuse to the starter wire pops. I know it's a no no, but I replaced the fuse with a wad of foil and the car cranked over no problem, after a few cranks the foil started smoking.. Any thoughts on why the fuse is popping?

A starter turning without a load can draw as much as 150amps, 250 or more while starting. Mazda does not even use a fuse for that path.

Why did you even admit to doing something as foolish as jamming foil into a circuit? Idiocy.

Foil was the quickest, easiest way to see if the car would crank if the fuse wasn't popping... Anyway let's get past my idiocracy...

Are you saying to just eliminate the fuses between starter and battery? Everyone I've seen with battery relocation has fuses or breakers..

I don't have a fuse or breaker. i also did the math to make sure i had the right wires to be safe. ended up with 2/O wire for 12feet.

here is how you relocate. run one wire from the positive battery post to the starter (awg 1/o or 2/o) and continue that wire to your alternator output. connect a smaller wire (awg 8 or 6) from you alternator output to you engine bay fuse box. connect two (1/0 or 2/0 wires from your negative battery post. one grounds to the chassis, the other to grounds to the starter bolt.

so you shouldn't have added other fuses in there for basic operation of the car.

I made the same error fusing my starter when I relocated my battery. You need to run it straight with no fuse.

I removes that fuse and directly connected those 3 wires (sloppy but I'll fix that once I get the car running) I left the inline fuse at the battery and it seems to be cranking.. Now I just need to
Get it to turn over