Blown fuse? i screwed up...
Blown fuse? i screwed up...
Allrighty, well while working on some radio stuff I managed to short the always on - "mem" wire for the radios memory. Now none of the interior lights work (guess it was the same curcit) And the door idiot light always stays on dimmly now. I pulled out every fuse in the fuse box thats near the clutch peadal, one 7.5A fuse was blown the "Room" fuse but changeing that did not help. I also checked the little fuse box under the hood and nothings blown. Everything else works fine.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Originally Posted by TitosToy
it's the room fuse. everytime you change the radio without taking the ground wire off of the battery, it'll always blow. it's best to change the fuse with either a 10A or 15A.
The room fuse is blown and you have not fixed the issue before putting the new fuse in. Something is wired wrong at the radio, if that is where you last worked and did wiring. (the FAQ for FC sticky thread has the correct wiring information).
And if there is not a short in the system, there is no reason to disconnect thet battery before putting a fuse in. So I am not sure why Tito is even suggesting that.
And you never ever ever ever put a larger value fuse in, than what the factory fuse is. The fuse is to protect the wiring. A small fuse like the room fuse has sveral 22 gauge wires on it and low current circuits. Putting a larger fuse in, you loose the protection of the fuse on those circuits, which could lead to burnt wiring, switches or car. If you need higher current, you need to run a new fused wire to the battery or wire relay(s) to shunt from another circuit that does have the higher amperage rating.
BUT NEVER USE A HIGHER VALUE FUSE THAN THE FACTORY RATING.
And if there is not a short in the system, there is no reason to disconnect thet battery before putting a fuse in. So I am not sure why Tito is even suggesting that.
And you never ever ever ever put a larger value fuse in, than what the factory fuse is. The fuse is to protect the wiring. A small fuse like the room fuse has sveral 22 gauge wires on it and low current circuits. Putting a larger fuse in, you loose the protection of the fuse on those circuits, which could lead to burnt wiring, switches or car. If you need higher current, you need to run a new fused wire to the battery or wire relay(s) to shunt from another circuit that does have the higher amperage rating.
BUT NEVER USE A HIGHER VALUE FUSE THAN THE FACTORY RATING.
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Originally Posted by Icemark
The room fuse is blown and you have not fixed the issue before putting the new fuse in. Something is wired wrong at the radio, if that is where you last worked and did wiring. (the FAQ for FC sticky thread has the correct wiring information).
And if there is not a short in the system, there is no reason to disconnect thet battery before putting a fuse in. So I am not sure why Tito is even suggesting that.
And you never ever ever ever put a larger value fuse in, than what the factory fuse is. The fuse is to protect the wiring. A small fuse like the room fuse has sveral 22 gauge wires on it and low current circuits. Putting a larger fuse in, you loose the protection of the fuse on those circuits, which could lead to burnt wiring, switches or car. If you need higher current, you need to run a new fused wire to the battery or wire relay(s) to shunt from another circuit that does have the higher amperage rating.
BUT NEVER USE A HIGHER VALUE FUSE THAN THE FACTORY RATING.
And if there is not a short in the system, there is no reason to disconnect thet battery before putting a fuse in. So I am not sure why Tito is even suggesting that.
And you never ever ever ever put a larger value fuse in, than what the factory fuse is. The fuse is to protect the wiring. A small fuse like the room fuse has sveral 22 gauge wires on it and low current circuits. Putting a larger fuse in, you loose the protection of the fuse on those circuits, which could lead to burnt wiring, switches or car. If you need higher current, you need to run a new fused wire to the battery or wire relay(s) to shunt from another circuit that does have the higher amperage rating.
BUT NEVER USE A HIGHER VALUE FUSE THAN THE FACTORY RATING.
Ha ha i found that out the hard way. I fried my harness when i used bigger fuse. You need to solve the problem first if fuses keep getting blown.
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OK guys, I actually put a 10A fuse in there (i had no 7.5, sorry) and its not blown. I know why the fuse blew because I saw a spark on the mem wire (i accedentally grounded it), so the problem is fixed and no more fuses should blow. Also the "door ajar" light on the idiot cluster is always on now. What else could it be?
Originally Posted by Icemark
Is the dome light on also?
And your bump has been deleted. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen Rx-7 technical section
And your bump has been deleted. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen Rx-7 technical section
Originally Posted by philiptompkins
No, the dome light nor the door panel lights come on..... But the red idiot light stays on all the time.
Having a hard time following you here...
if the idiot light is on, the dome light should be on.
If it is not, then you have a blown room fuse (which should have been checked before posting)
If the idiot light is always on, but the dome lights are working normally, then either the CPU is the wrong CPU, it is bad internally, or the clock warning panel is wrong or bad internally. Or you have a major wiring mix up... like burnt wires or something got added that was wired wrong.
Originally Posted by Icemark
So they don't come on when the door is opened???
Having a hard time following you here...
if the idiot light is on, the dome light should be on.
If it is not, then you have a blown room fuse (which should have been checked before posting)
If the idiot light is always on, but the dome lights are working normally, then either the CPU is the wrong CPU, it is bad internally, or the clock warning panel is wrong or bad internally. Or you have a major wiring mix up... like burnt wires or something got added that was wired wrong.
Having a hard time following you here...
if the idiot light is on, the dome light should be on.
If it is not, then you have a blown room fuse (which should have been checked before posting)
If the idiot light is always on, but the dome lights are working normally, then either the CPU is the wrong CPU, it is bad internally, or the clock warning panel is wrong or bad internally. Or you have a major wiring mix up... like burnt wires or something got added that was wired wrong.
P.S. thank you very much for trying to help, please let me know if you have any more ideas, or troubleshooting things that I should try.
Originally Posted by Icemark
have you checked the fuse with a meter??? or are you "visually" checking it?




