blinker help
 

i searched: blinkers, blinker short, s5 blinker.
checked rotorwiki.com
and archives.


so i have an s4 T2 almost fully coverted to s5(inside and out) so i thought i would get s5 blinkers not knowing that they are different. so i had to cut and splice the wires. not thinking that it would make a difference i left one of them not hooked up. so they seemed fine when i tested them, but when i turned on my headlights when it was night time, they started blinking very fast like it had a short.

so recap, s4's only have power and ground, s5 blinkers have 3 wires, i only hooked up the ones that made it work. when i have running or headlights on the blinker blinks SUPA FAST.
what should i do with the 3rd wire?

or can someone tell me what each wire on an S5 blinker does.

THANKS

come on guys. im installing my foglights tomorrow, and thats the day i get to work on my car cus ill be down in SD.

should i ground the 3rd wire? should it be power too?

You shouldn't have cut anything. The S5 lights will plug directly into the S4 harness. No wiring modification is needed.

If it's the same as my S4 Vert, which I assume it is, that third wire is for the burnt out bulb idiot light/sensor monitoring.

Unfortunately this system is monitored by the ECU. Generally the fast flash phenomenon is encountered when the overall resistance of the filaments is insuffucient for the ECU flasher. (I believe the flasher is in the ECU in the S4, separate in S5.)

Fast flash is often the case when converting to LED lighting. I believe a small 3-10 Ohm POWER resistor is what folks use to address this issue. A power resistor is big, with heat sink/fins to handle the currrent/heat generated.

(This is not to be confused with the 330 Ohm resistor used in series with LEDs, these drop the voltage to avoid frying the LED.)

Got a voltmeter?

not personally but i can get one.

i had no choice. they were already spliced, but i do have the connecters. ill try to figure it out i guess. its not that big of a deal.

so people make fun of me for having a fast blinker....they will get over it.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6

yeap... go find the connectors and wire them back on!

I kinda' like the fast, precise LED blinker effect for turn signals, and if you've seen me change lanes, you know why. ;^]

In fact, I'm tempted to get one of these here $30 thangs...

Intelligent Brake Light Flasher

4 or 9 flashes
Heavy duty 16 amps & Waterproof

Use with typical incandescent, LED, or halogen type bulbs
No load resistor required

Police seem to dislike "endless" brake flashing while stopped. Some authorities dislike brake strobing (fast flashing). The IBF4/9 solve these issues. Apply your brake and your brake light(s) will immediately turn ON and then flash for about 3-4 seconds then stay ON continuously. Release your brake and apply again will cause the cycle to repeat but the flash period will be shorter depending on how long the brakes were off. A complete reset takes about 20-30 seconds2. This helps prevent distracting flashing in stop & go traffic. IBF4 conforms with California DOT regulations.

http://www.comagination.com/bflasher.htm


Funny about the law on such devices in Cali, this one is apparently legal.

why would i want blinker fluid. i already have fast blinkers......duh :squint:

ok this may be a stupid question but what in the hell is blinker fluid???

^bahahaha

laugh all you want i aint never heard of it before...probably cause i never needed it!so lol on you

There is nothing correct about anything in your post. Please do not post what you do not understand about.

First the ECU has nothing to do with the light flasher at all. The ECU (Engine or Emissions Control Unit) controls the engine. Not the lights. The CPU is the body computer which controls things like the turn signals, horn, warnings, etc.

ALL FC's have three wires for the front signal lights. One is for the parking lights, one is for ground and one is the turn signal light. There is no dedicated sensor wire. The turn signal circuit board in the CPU (and it is the same turn signal circuit board for FC and FDs- all years- and part of the CPU) monitors resistance.

If resistance is wrong (such as a bulb is blown or the wires are cut) the Flasher board in the CPU (body computer) flashes the circuit fast (twice normal speed). This is pretty standard automotive tech since the early 80's. So once again, fast flash= burnt out bulb or disconnected wiring.

If you were to use LED lights with a lower resistance than normal filament bulbs, you would use a 5 watt 10 ohm or so resistors. Resistors come in a rating (1/4 watt, 1/2 watt, 1 watt, etc. The rating is important as too low of a rating means the resistor burns out. For example 1/4 watt 10 ohm resistor would burn up the first time you turned on a turn signal. So telling someone to use a 3 ohm resistor means nothing! (and besides in this case, shows you don't have a clue and should not be answering what you don't know about).

YOu are not helping members here if you post incorrect information.

S4 and S5 front turn signals, wire the same and even use the same plug.

They both are 3 wire.

Did you use the correct bulb (front signal bulbs on US spec models are dual contact 1157 bulbs, not single contact 1156 bulbs)?

You should've searched for "indicator" and "turn signal", since that's what they're actually called...

his location is LA an being that is so you gotta know down here it is a blinker anything else an people look at you like your stupid...same at autozone i dont think they know what a turn signal is...but you say blinker they take you right to it..its almost funny...you gotta remember we got our own language down here...;p

well i took a look earlier and both sides were already cut, and the only connectors i have are the ones for the blinkers or turn indicators themselves, no connected to cars wire to CPU. ill try to find that 3rd wire.

yes i have the right bulbs. they look like frankenstien "bolts" comming from the bottom, they run straight across. i probably just confused people in that last statement.

ill fix it tomorrow, cus i feel like a retard when its night and my blinker blinks 1k rpm.

The front turn signal/ marker light plugs into a three pin plug just inside the metal wall in back of the headlights. From there, the harness joins the front harness and goes into the car at the CPU.

And 1156 bulbs and 1157 bulbs both have the side locks (Frankenstein bolts as you call them), however, the 1157 (the correct bulb) will have two solder balls on the bottom outside of the bulb in the insulator, while the 1156 will only have 1 solder ball in the insulator on the bottom of the bulb.

Sorry. Thanks for the clarifications.

-Rob

well while im taking a break from installing my s5 foggys i checked my blinker situation out. i wish i had my digital camera so you guys can see. i found one of the plugs that we cut off from the car. and the two that we cut off of the blinkers. the plugs in no way shape or form could fit, thats why the guy who put them on spliced them. i explained something wrong.

the cars blinker wires are 3 wires, just like icemark said.

but the blinkers that i bought have only 2 wires coming out of them, im assuming, power and ground. they still stay on when i put on my driving/headlights. but do the crazy blinking. ill take pictures when i get back up to LA tomorrow or most likely monday. im in SD visit family and friends.

You need synthetic blinker fluid.