best turbo setup for 350-375whp
 

like the title says i am wanting to make 350-375whp with around 12-15psi. i had a bnr stage 4 and it just didnt cut it and i dont want to max out the turbo just to make my goal. i would love as little lag as possible as i want this setup for kind of a all around toy...drifting,drag,autocross,etc...I've been doing research but just figured id get some other peoples inputs

Precision PT5862 CEA

Choose that in a T4 .84 Divided

Was the bnr stage 4 laggy? If I ever go bnr I'd only want a stage 1-3 , 300-350 whp is my goal, but with my stock s5 Turbo I'm hoping for 225-250whp on 10-12psi

Gt35r

the stage 4 should have gotten you near there, if not then something is wrong with your setup.

Thats what I was thinking myself.

we'll see what my home brew s5 hybrid puts down when i go to the dyno in a couple weeks (idk what wheel trim it is, is got a 59-60mm inducer), its fairly similar to the bnr stg4, but i'm running ~18psi on a stock s5 keg. i'm hoping for atleast 320whp.

my car is hitting 7-10psi @ 2200rpm, I think for faster response i would need a supercharger

i see were hes coming from i got rid of stg 4 too i felt like i was pushing it too much perfect turbo for under 350whp . i got a borg warner s360 now i want over 400whp got bord of the 300ho range

the stage 4 and up(additional options) are fairly laggy compared to the stage 1 and 2. but for a bolt on turbo they do just fine.

You're gonna get sick of every power till its uncontrollable lol

or it keeps going through motors. the FC engines are weak beyond about 350whp without internal upgrades.

wouldn't it make a bigger difference in spool time when you start putting larger compressors on the stock turbo depending on s4 or s5 turbine housing/manifold? the s4 i could see getting a little laggy

i don't feel like going into it again, the s4 turbo isn't THAT different from the s5.

From my experience running both turbos, the s5 is less laggy. especially when paired up with a larger compressor. stock to stock its almost undetectable because the compressor is so small. larger compressors & housings seem to show a more noticeable difference IMO/E. A compressor w/ a 60mm inducer with low AR reaching full boost (18psi) @ ~3k is pretty damn good.

On a side note i was never really sure if the "twin scroll" actuator/flap was working correctly on my s4 setup. That may or may not have had something to do with the difference in spool time, they were still close but the difference between the two was noticeable with the larger compressor.

What kind of upgrades we talking ? I thought 400whp was the magic number for the s4 rear iron.

What's a safe power goal on a stock port built s4 block with stronger aftermarket seals? 325whp stage 2 bnr?

i've seen engines lose irons even at 300whp if the tune isn't setup correctly or any of a hundred issues pop up down the road.

studding the block is probably the easiest method versus dowelling which i would say isn't quite as strong.

Well detonation is like a grenade going off inside your engine. Lol

How much does it cost to stud one? I've seen 400+ whp on stock engine before long time ago from some guy j-rat I think his name was with a 10ae. Wonder how much abuse it took before giving.!

there have been a few cases of people getting over 500whp from unopened blocks. but the way i see it and have experienced, unopened blocks have better holding grip than a rebuilt fresh engine does, with slicker clean mating surfaces.

studding and dowelling all range from about $350-700. it's not absolutely necessary but it is a safeguard. usually pushed more on people aiming for over 400whp.

didnt really have any complaints with the turbo honestly i just felt i was pushing it and stressing it to get me near what i wanted. great turbo and really not laggy at all! i just would like to make 350whp"ish without stressing the turbo or motor too much.
it made 339whp and 252wtq and nothing was "wrong" with my setup to my knowledge

what were you running for boost pressure??

Probably more to do with specific variables that you really have no control over. Engine compression, ambient air temp, the dynos accuracy etc, also how aggressively tuned it is. Obviously a more conservative tune will yield less power.

How much boost were you running? I believe the stage 4 is good up to 18psi but don't quote me

17-18psi

was it on a dyno jet?

problem probably lies with the Rtek, no offense to them or you but it is probably the least capable "EMS" out there and i simply don't trust it to make peak performance from most any setup. hopefully they also made it able to adjust multiple cells at the same time, i was getting carpel tunnel from tapping that palm pilot.

J-rat i believe ran his stage 4 up to about 415whp before the turbo gave up due to the 2 step and i've personally tuned a stage 4 that put out more at just 12-13psi.

of course changing the turbo is probably cheaper than buying a new standalone.

if it was a mustang dyno then that is probably one reason why it seems low.

Had (2) S4's and each twin scroll didn't work. The actuator bolts snap, vacuum hard lines rot or get pinched, etc. Still made boost in a really low rpm. Don't know what the fuss is about. Maybe I'm just use to high rpm 600cc street bikes and 2-stroke dirt bikes where your always on the rpm's anyways.

oh i will never get another rtek i was very unhappy with it all around. im sure i could have gotten more with a ems

part of the problem is that most S4 turbos are just old and tired. almost every s4 turbo i come across has shaft play to some degree and gobs of carbon buildup on the turbine wheel which will also hinder performance. i just rebuilt one and i don't think i have ever felt one as good, except it's going onto a high CR 6 port block so reference points will be skewed a bit(i also just left off the twin scroll since it won't need it).

What rtek was it? I'm going to get one sometime in the future for my car possibly but I'm only running a stock s5 Turbo.

pretty sure he had the 2.1

Well I've seen a guy with just over 400whp with a 2.1 , it probably depends more on the users ability to tweak things and get it running to.full potential.

For my car I'm not sure what to go with, I can use all 550's or 550 primary and 720 secondaries (from gsl se).

Ill be running like 9 lbs Max on the stock ecu and fuel pump with a fcd.

I'm not sure if its even worth getting the 1.7 rtek to run 10psi or worth it to run the bigger secondaries on 9 psi or less (figured more fuel is better even if the pump is stock).

Then again I could just run low boost like 6-7 psi so I don't risk running lean.

What do y'all think would be best for my initial setup as far as boost and injectors for my near stock setup.

Car is s4 has full exhaust and s5 Turbo. Idk how much I'd have to port wg to run near stock boost on full exhaust. Intake will be stock.

for the price and envolvement it was great.... next time ill go full standalone as well. haltech sprint re seems like a cheap one.

main draw back is the limites of the stock map sensor, and the restrictions of the afm, and a rather tedious entry method of tuning

i've been split between haltech RE, Adaptronic 420d, or AEM ems4. all come close to the $1k mark also starting to look at Microtech

Don't forget the injector size limitations. It also runs on Palm os. As in, Palm Pilot PDA. :facepalm4:

I came to the conclusion that the powerfc is more expensive, but a way better unit. It is also plug and play (might need a banzai kit if fd model). My tuner knows it well too. Good option for me.

The rtek is cool, and I did consider it for a while. But honestly, I'd end up spending money twice.

FTFY

+1 on the PowerFC. I was going back and forth between Rtek and a true EMS. Nearly everyone I spoke with, including Rotary Performance, suggested the PFC for it's easy plug and play and tuning abilities. For your goals, I believe it will be more than able to to get you there.

S4 adapter harness

S5 adapter harness

ease of use yes, ability for maximum potential no. i don't mind the powerFC but it is definitely showing its age, which is a testament to it being that it is now about 15 years old.

What are you're recomendations for a full EMS?

Your correction made my statement incorrect. Maybe I worded it funky. There is an FC version of the powerFC (AP Engineering version). They are rare.

as always it depends if you are going to tune it yourself or get it tuned by a shop. if you are going to use a shop then ask the tuner you use what EMS they are most comfortable with.

as far as ease of installation and learning curve i generally recommend the microtech LT8. they are the cheapest option but do require some wiring, but they do work with the stock sensors and wiring clips so there is no hidden costs. their drawback is that everything is firmwared into the ECU, what you buy is what you get and you cannot reconfigure it on the fly like most other common EMS on the market. you also cannot download and save base maps to a computer but they are coming out with a new ECU that has that capability for the same cost.

microtech is by far the easiest to tune, no one can really argue that. it's very easy to get distracted in the haltech software for example with the 10,000 optional tables to turn on and off, most of which you don't really need. the downside with microtech is you have only the default basemap so you are knee deep in learning to tune to even get your car driving right out of the gate, if you have a stock setup it should run and drive without messing with it much but who really installs an EMS on a stock car?

i have been looking into the adaptronic EMS and have been contemplating becoming a reseller of their ECUs but i wanted to get some feedback on them first. they do have some nice options for a good price(E85 adaptive and autotune features). unfortunately they don't offer a plug n play for the FC(why the fuck do FDs get all the nice shit when they are the minority...). but realistically you could use the adaptronic on a S5 turbo with the banzai adapter($300 wasted if you ask me, if they would simply add different ECU plugs they would sell more).

turblown sells s5 plug and play adaptronic

then they should update the website and i also did not see Elliot make any mention of the S5 plug n play ECU. it also still leaves the S4 turbo out to dry, which is the most common model of any turbo rotary ever produced.

perhaps what you saw was a patch harness to plug it into an FC, which is still the above mentioned $250-300 on top of the ECU, making it an even less desirable option for FC owners. i personally look at other options before the PFC because of this additional cost in the past. the FC has a lower resale so keeping things on at least an even playing field will yield more customers.

power fc is prob the best thing i got for my fc . my boss/tuner made 591whp on his fd last year . i like how its just plug n play for the fc and all the good stuff

I have a similar setup but I am running cats, which is very important to me, since I drive the car almost daily and have/use all the oem accesories and then some. It's still a nice car and fast by todays standards even. The Rtek is based on the stock ECU and can still operate all the stock emissions. If you don't need emissions equipment then definately use something else.

I will admit that using Palm OE, you do have to have patience. Maybe being an "Old Hot Rodder" may have some advantage after all.

I don't think it matters if you have emissions or not.

50% of modded rx7s have no emissions.

pre-cat and main cat? that's a lot of restriction for what's being thrown at it! Can't see having all that high HP hardware and corking it up with them cats.

that's what pisses me off about CA that I can't put 2 cats in parallel to allow the exhaust smell like roses while limiting power loss.