best hot start method?
 

What's the best hot start procedure to save embarrasment at service stations and other public places?
It's frustrating to have school kids laugh while you wish they would understand that rotaries are impossible to re-start once you've driven half a mile!

Foot on the floor until it turns over? Little bursts of key? Whatever I do, it always seems to take 5 minutes to start.

Are the Turbos and S3 RXs the same, or is it just the NA?

Steve

It's proably not wamed up yet. 2nd gens are infamous for flooding when you shut them down before they reach closed loop mode.

For cars with hot start probs, i usually rev it to 3 or 4k and shutoff the key. It seems to make it easier to start hot.

i have a turbo model with a new jspec in it and whenever it rarely does it all i do is put my foot on the floor and it starts up in like a second. but before i had thsi car i had a 86 gxl and if it didnt flood and take forever to stat then soemthing was wrong. i went through a starter in about a year with that car

Mine's a TII S5 and I get problems restarting after filling with gas, a quick stop at the shop etc. I have found that if it won't fire without any pedal at all after two quick tries, then foot to the floor almost always works for the third time.

Put a kill switch on the power wire going to the fuel pump. If the car floods, hit the switch and crank the key until it starts and then turn the switch back on again. If the car always gives you trouble when it's warm, try giving it half-throttle when you start it.

Eh that happened to me a at one time or another, I thought that FLOORING it would be the WORST THING you go could do, cause won't that just squirt more gas in there?! So I just took the fuse out and cranked it, and put the fuse back in. I guess I shouldn't have done all that...a simple press down on the gas pedal and starting it would have done the trick???

Mazda were aware of the possible problem of a warm start so they added an extra bit of code to the ECU, when the pedal is pushed to the metal at start time the ECU disables the injectors. I am not sure which versions of the FC this is fitted to but it certainly works on my TII S5

I feel your pain. I have a beautiful TII that does that every time the motor is hot and it sit for a few minutes. I tried EVERYTHING....cleaned injectors, filters, plugs, wires, water and air temp. sensors, and so on. I finally wired in a switch to the fuel pump relay (much easier than using the power wire to the pump). Now I ALWAYS hot start the engine with the switch in the off position....most times it fires immediately....never more than five seconds. You can try cleaning the injectors (I had mine professionally cleaned but they still leak). The switch is a sure fix. It might be treating the symptoms instead of the problem but i'll be damned if ANYONE could fix my car. Maybe $800.00 worth of new injectors would have done it (maybe some day).

Todd

One more thing....I think pedal to the floor is for 89+ cars only (i'm not sure about that though). I THINK in the '87, '88 cars it will only cause it to squirt in more gas.

Todd

I am pretty sure that only works on the S5.

yep, thats a S5 deal only. For S4 guys, the best thing to do is run a switch all the way to the fuel pump connector.

Putting my foot down works well on my 88 TII, I have a switch, but if you dont put your foot to the floor, you have to flip the switch off and on to get it started...

Anyone tried this?
 

Anyone tried this?

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm

How come this is diferent from a reg. piston motor? What Im getting is that the motor wont start when its hot? What about when it is cold? PLease explain the physics.

Sorry, im new to cars kinda. :(

Forget about replacing injectors. I did that (with NEW injectors from Mazda), and it did bugger all! I have an 87 T2, so as has been noted, stomping on the gas on crankup will not work. Putting in the kill switch works EVERY time, and if you place the switch in a good position and know exactly when to turn it off/on, noone will ever know you have a problem.
:)

PS... I think the 'leaking injectors thing' is a myth. I'm sure that at some point they might leak (due to old age), but not to cause a problem like this, and if you think about it, how could they possibly leak so much to flood the engine, when I have on occasions stalled the engine, and tried to start it straight away (this was before the kill switch), and it wouldn't.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Starion....are you saying you put in new injectors and it did not fix the flooding? Speaking of switches...i'm thinking a spring loaded "normal on" switch might have been better than the toggle I used. That way you just hold down the switch while cranking.

The flooding is actually nothing to to with the fact it's a rotary, it's a problem with the Mazda EFI hardware and software. An aftermarket computer with new (or professionally cleaned) injectors is the only guaranteed fix.
Low compression because of sticking apex seals is a rotary problem, and will make the problem worse because the flooding washes away the oil that's retaining what compression you have.

That is exactly what I'm saying (reread my post, I just edited it).
I agree with the spring switch idea... I'm just waiting for warmer weather before I fix it properly.
:)

I don't think you need to change the injectors, but the computer definately needs to be 'dropped off the face off the earth'. It is basically junk. The pc boards and solder they used are just too bad for words.

Grrrr, hit the wrong button... please ignore.

Well....I can dispute that it is a myth. I have a TSB from Mazda some member faxed me and you can test the leakdown with them on the car. Mine do leak down faster than spec. . Not saying they are the only cause of my flooding (honestly i've given up on trying to figure it out). The fuel pump shut off switch works great...it's dirt cheap...and the car runs perfectly (great power, smooth idle, good gas mileage) so i'll just leave it like it is.

Todd

PS...it does not pay to throw parts at this problem....ask me how I know.

Well, like everybody says, the kill switch solves the problem, so that's all I'm concerned about... and as for 'throwing' parts at it, I hear you! I spent CA$2500, which did nothing, then spent $10 on a switch, some wire, some connectors and bada bing bada bang... problem solved. It was a big relief not to have to lock the car and leave it idling while I went shopping, anymore (I guess I'm lucky I don't live in LA or NY... bye bye car! :D )

My 87 TII starts perfect everytime its cold just crank the engine. When its warm its gets a little picky. If you kill it some how your usually SCREWED in other words pop the hood pull the fuse, crank, replace fuse, start. Now when I try to start it all other times when its warm it will strart no trix as long as you werent screwing with it when you shut it off. Sometimes i have the problem of cranking the key and thinking it started and it was still cranking so i let the key go to soon. When i do that it will make me have to pull the fuse. The motor is kinda seeing the same situation as killing it. I dont know why its like this but i just hold the throttle part way dowm (1/4) everytime i start it cold and it starts everytime.

Im going to buy a AFM soon and ill post my results.

Because I have a very large electric fan that takes a hell of a current and runs after the ignition is switched off I eventually ended up having to get a NEW BATTERY.
Ever since I have found the problem of hot starts has almost completely disappeared.