been a whiles wanted to squash a theory
 

i belive the opposite:

the S5 Turbo II chassis harness is different than an S5 NA chassis harness?

and next is:

what does the S5 TII need to start that the S4 Turbo II doesnt?

riddle me that.... because i am at a fued with a friend and long time assistant... i figure id mix it up bit

An S5 computer?

S5 chassis harness is the same for na or t2. Thats why the swap is plug and play.
Thanks Robert

a push...

There's no such thing as a "chassis" harness. There's a Front harness, a Rear harness, an Engine harness, an Emissions harness, and some other minor harnesses. These are the names given to the harnesses in the wiring diagrams.

There's nothing the S5 TII needs to start that the S4 TII doesn't.

thank you! i appreciate it ill go grab some pics of the harnesses whiles installed in the car and see if anyone can spot something thats missing?

for the car to run u need:

ECU plugged in
Coils
CAS
TPS
MAF
Fuel Pump Relay
Injectors
FPR(technically not as i have had someone bring me a car with one without vac attached drove it for a year!)
compression
fuelpump
_________
_________
_________
fuel
_________
_________

this S5 TII is freaking not starting we have 12v at injector clips we have plenty of spark and it runs on starter fluid when we spray it....what would cause the ECU to NOT open the injectors? would a bad maf still allow for spark?? could a bad CAS be the case but i was under the impression the signal sent to ECU is what it uses to determine spark and injector pulse?

im in new jersey at the moment ill be back infront of this car on thusday/friday but im just brainstorming here

any suggestions would be great!

again i have:
Fuel Pump voltage OK!
Injector Power Wires 12v OK!
Spark on all four Plugs OK!
Tried S5 turbo II ECU and S5 JDM TII ECU BOTH same results OK!

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ********************************************

The fuel lines are on backwards. Swap same.

check the CAS, my car had lots of trouble starting for ages, i had coroded wires, got them replaced and cleaned the terminals, had no problems since

hahahah no freaking way?!?!! LOL WELL ill double triple check thats a laugh and a half

and in terms of the CAS im going to restab it, and clean it all up just in case as i havent started checking those items yet...

any other info would be nice! thanks!

if the electronic s5 OMP isnt working the car will not stay running

we removed the OMP on this motor actually running 16ounces per tank of MOTUL M800 syn 2 stroke we compression tested it and we currerntly have 120psi of compression on the motor at the moment just wondering....


is there anything behind the dash besides ofcourse the fuelpump relay, fuse box and the ECU that needs to be there on the S5 taht i need for the car to run correctly?

thanks!

i just wanna make sure i covered all my bases and im not going crazy...

When you remove the s5 omp you still have to leave it hooked up electronicly. weather your premixing or not the ecu still needs an input signal from the omp. but i dont think this is your problem. sounds to me like your are having a problem with the primary injectors. check all wiring and make sure they are clean and operating properly. when i say clean i dont mean stp injector cleaner remove them and do it right.

The fuel lines on a JDM engine are opposite the ones on a USA version. Line from the filter goes to the rear hard line on the engine.

If you've pulled the return soft line off the engine and gone to Start momentarily and seen gas come from the hard line on the engine, then that's not the problem. IF you do see gas come out of the aft hard line on the engine, then the lines are crossed somewhere. If the pump is running when going to start.

yes, make sure you have the fuel lines going into the in and out of the out. i know we nissan guys do this shit alot, check that and see if it starts then. and i have reversed fuel lines numerous times, really is a stupid thing that you would think i would figure out, but this also comming from the guy that has had 6 power tool injuries in 9 months.

I would just leave the S5 OMP on where it should be. Looks ghetto having it "hung" or "stashed" some place it should be just so you can run 2 stroke that will not make the engine run any better.

gotcha ill hookup the OMP and see what happends, as this sounds like a good lead!

They are not quite plug and play, there are 2 or 3 wires that need to be moved but that is it.

You laugh, but this is a very common error when installing a j-spec. The j-spec fuel lines hook up 'backwards' to the US spec. The lines are right there ready to hook up-wrong!

Other possibility:
Verify that the fuel pump is pumping. There is a yellow jumper on the passenger side
shock pillar. Jumper this, turn on the ignition- the fuel pump should pump continuously.

Good luck.

also i very much do NOT want to have a stupid OMP hangin basking in the wind.... nobody has setup a plug in or circutboard kinda resistor thingabob yet?!

well shoot!!!!!

if anyones got the info resistance ranges, voltage ranges wiring diagrams and what not id be glad to try and figure out a way to fool the ECU into thinking its hooked up

either i suppose ill further research into it but any help on that front would be good.

also we removed ALL emissions on this motor as in all solenoids and vaclines are capped off the FPR is hooked up under the manifold and im just about 100% certain the fuel lines are correct because we had an issue with whoever wired it up didint crimp the power wire correctly.... hence i dissasembled the entire fuel system and went through it....

NOW the other thing is i belive that i need to look into the CAS wiring as some might be exposed due to age and what not... ill start looking into that as well ill keep everyone posted i return to TX tomorrow and will be hitting this car with full force dammit....lol

thanks everyone!

Nope.

If it was that easy we wouldn't be discussing it nearly 20 years after the electronic OMP was introduced. The ECU not only drives the OMP based on rpm, load, temp, etc; it also monitors the OMP to make sure what it's doing is what should be happening for those conditions. You won't be tricking it with a few resistors...

That fact that it's been disassembled is a good reason to check it was reassembled correctly. Pull the return hose off the hard line and make sure fuel comes out when the pump's on. This will confirm the pump too.