Batt Relocation and 130A Alt Q's
 

Alright, im relocating my Batt to my pass bin and i need some extra info on wiring and Amperage.

i've read the previous posts on relocating the battery and so on and heard that the majority of ppl recommended 0G wiring or welders cable. well i have access to Rockford Fosgate 4AWG amp kits for cheap. but i plan on upgrading to a 130A Taurus alt; so will my wiring melt with the increased amps? i talked to some of the installers at Best Buy (where i sell car audio, hence the discounted amp kits) , Guy #1 said that 130A will melt the 4G, but Guy #2 said that since im using the factory 80A engine bay fuse i'll be fine.

also, has anyone who's done the 130A alt change had any problem with their wiring with the increased amperage? Ex: anything melting and so on? or is Guy #2 correct?

as for the wiring my plans are as follows

Bat + to a 150A breaker
breaker to small fuse box (recycled old power harness cabling)
breaker to engine bay
distro box in bay, one to starter, other to main fuse box
main fuse box to Alt (recycling the old power harness starter cable to make this one)

Bat - to ground beside batt
run a ground into the engine bay
distro box to engine, bay ground and starter(is it possible, or even necessary to do one on the starter?)

and one last thing. i took apart one of my engine's power harness (junkyard chopped off starter wiring) and was curious if anyone knows about the jacket around the CAS sensor wire. at the plugs going into the main vehicle's harness the CAS plug has i believe a grounding jacket around the main sensor cabling that connects to the reverse / trans sensors. main question: is there suppose to be anything at the CAS end of the wiring grounded, or is it just like that to shield out other signals from wiring?

here's some pic to help out on the confusion.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...g/IMG_1472.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...g/IMG_1473.jpg

im also going to run fresh wiring for the oil pressure, reverse lights, alt to dash, and possibly even fresh CAS lines.

thanks for the help guys.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

4 gauge is rated for 135 amps for chassis wiring. You will be fine with that. BTW, you will NEVER have 135 amps going from the alternator to the battery, not even if your battery was completely flat and you jump start the car. You will have more than that from the battery to the starter when cranking.

I personally would go with 0 gauge to reduce voltage drop to the starter, but that might be over kill.

thanks for the input Jack.

i actually looked at some of the scrap pieces of amp cabling in the install bay today while i was working and compared a Rockford 4G to a Raptor "0G" wire. the Rockford was the exact same size as the Raptors "0G", the only difference was the Raptors casing was 6 times thicker than the Rockford. i also talked to them some more and they said that 4G would so alright.

but my question about the CAS still stands. is that shielding suppose to be grounded on both sides?

alright, this is just for everybodys sake when relocating your battery or anything dealing with the battery. i got some scrap pieces of wiring from the installers today just so i can show everyone the differences in name brand wiring and off brand.

this is a shot of Raptor 1/0G Battery Cable on the left, and Rockford Fosgate 4AWG on the right

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ng/cables1.jpg

as you can see the wire on the inside are piratically the exact same size. also, the copper strands on the Fosgate are actually smaller than the Raptors, allowing more flow through the cable vs the Raptor.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ng/cables2.jpg

the main difference is the coating between both of them. besides that, it'll be cost. purchasing a "0G" kit can be expensive, but it might just be a smaller gauge name brand kit.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ng/cables3.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...g/IMG_1498.jpg

looks huge, but just about the same cable size.

also again, dose anyone know anything about re-wiring the CAS? or is it just simple as replacing them and putting a sleeve on them?

knukonceptz is cheap but the correct AWG. or what I got was. I bought 4 gauge copper clad aluminum and it's really 3 gauge or something to make it very very close to 4 gauge copper. I did a lot of research and basically the difference was small to begin with. but they over sized it to close the gap more.

Anyway Hey Jack remember my PM? Did you ever start on that bracket?