Bad water pump? 89 FC Non Turbo
 

I was coming home from the mazda dealership seeing what they recomended I do to replace my rear struts. (Have a complex 2amp speaker box system where my spare tire goes, not to mention a vert :( )
I noticed right when I parked that there was a bubbling noise, I shutoff my car and let the overflow stop bubbling, drained the radiator fluid and filled it with flush and distilled water, I went about 10 min from cold turned on the heater and started to notice my car temp gauge was still going up, getting WAY too close to the "H".

I also hear a noise coming from the engine bay that sounds like a bird chirping over and over.
My car has been serviced well and has 150k miles.
Where should I go from here and am I right about the water pump?

Sure, it could be the waterpump but the first and easiest thing to check is the thermostat.

I just replaced the thermostat a couple months ago along with a alumnium thermostat housing because the crappy plastic one cracked.
I highly doubt it's that, but I will check it.

Assuming the chirping bird is not just the belt slipping, you can remove the belt and spin the pump by hand. It only has two failure modes- the impellor corrodes away (highly unlikely since that doesn't happen overnight) or the bearing/seal fails.
You'll feel a bad bearing and a bad seal will cause leakage out the weephole.

I can't see any leaking, but I will say that it's one hell of a bitch to turn. I'm guessing the water pump bearing are bad?

It's funny because I saw that they used the same description for the sound, bird chirping = bad bearings in a pully?

how do i know if my Alternator is bad or the bearing? [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

So I don't need to get a new housing only a water pump right?
I would assume that's what went bad?

I just confimed the squeek is from the water pump pulley turning. Turning to the right makes it squeek. turning to the left doesn't and it's super hard to turn. DO i need a new housing for the water pump? or just the waterpump

You do not need to get a pump housing if you are replacing just the pump.

Just the pump, Rock Auto sells 'em for @$60.
When you get it, do yourself a favor and paint the housing before install.
They come in bare cast iron and start (surface) rusting immediately if you don't.

So I went to check out how easy it would be to pull out the water pump and got almost all the way done before I realized you have to take off the lower pully (Eccentric pully) to get the water pump/cooling fan pully off. It's a pain to get off with all the belts off so I put everything back togeather. Checked the thermostat, and it opens and closes in boiling water, I also tried to flush the system again with the water and solution, I also made sure I blead it of air, which I was so hoping was the problem. :/ Sadly no it got hot again, and this time before it even got close to the H on the temp gauge it made a beep noise and I turned it off. I got worried because the engine started smelling like burning oil/rubber. The only other thing besides the water pump it could be is a clogged radiator but I don't think that's possible. I need someone to help me get that lower pully off because I don't have the right tools to do that.
Also, should I start saving up for a rebuild, My engine was in such good condition but I'm worried about it overheating now, *Super Bummed*

Calm down, you're probably fine.

The lower pulley is bolted to the hub with four 6mm bolts.
They have 10mm heads, probably the most common bolt on the car.
Surely you have a 10mm socket?

Before you remove the pulley, do yourself a favor and rotate it till the timing mark lines up.
None of what you'll be doing can screw with the timing, so don't worry but lining it up makes it a lot easier to put back on. The bolt pattern on the hub is not symmetrical and it's a pain to see with the engine in place. Line the hub/pointer up first and you won't have to guess how it goes back on.

Thanks for all the help guys, I need a shower haha. I'm gonna pickup the pump tommorow and check back and tell you how it goes. :)

Oops. I got the lower pully off and was one the last bolt to the water pump and it's just on there too good. I broke the ratchet. Now that's what I call a flex ratchet lol.
I put some oil on the bolt to let sit while I get a new ratchet set. :P
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1416-h641

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1416-h641

By all means try some Deep Creep or whatever, those long (relatively) skinny bolts can be difficult.
Sometimes helps to try tightening it a little if it doesn't want to loosen.

When you reassemble, use lots of antisieze to help in the future.

Dude, I got one from Malloy Mazda for around $75 shipped. S4 pump tho, but I'm sure Ray would offer the first cousin hookup on a S5 one as well :lol: Ray Crowe FTW!

Easy way to tell if anything is wrong: Is it weeping or hard to turn by hand? If yes to either, replace it.

I finished the job. Looks good. I'm kinda bummed I wanted to fill the coolant up but the gasket sealer says not to run the engine without 24 hours to cure the gasket. DO I REALLY HAVE TO WAIT 24 HOURS AFTER SLAVING OVER THIS THING >:(

I'd wait.
After the full recommended cure time, if it still leaks you can be really pissed.

YES!

I didn't once and guess what? I had to take everything back apart and redo it.

I did mine without gasket sealer :x

still good though

I waited and it was a pain trying to burp it. Kept coolant buzzing. Finally got it though. woo!