Back to metering pump.
 

I used premix and want to get back to the electronic metering pump.

I'll change my oil cause it's synthetic and I need mineral oil. Is it ok if there is little rests of synthetic oil and the metering pump is working ?

I want to be totally certain that oil gets in the chambers. How do I do ?

Verify resistance of the metering pump (FSM).
No bubble in the tubes never.
Always full of oil.
Tubes not oily.

If the tubes is crack near the engine, will I see it ? Or do I have to take out my intake to be sure...

I'm paranoid cause I think my previous engine got damage good because of a bad metering pump...

Thanks

I can't help you too much with the metering pump as I haven't had to work on mine at all and I have the mechanical, not electrical pump.
I can say, however, that you won't use mineral oil anywhere in the car if you are switching back to using the metering pump. The metering pump injects engine oil into the intake, not mineral oil. When switching to running pre-mix, most people use mineral oil because it burns a bit cleaner (I think). When running the stock set up, however, the metering pump just puts a tiny bit of the engine oil into the intake to keep the seals happy. No mineral oil involved. That is why these cars burn a little oil when they are running well (if you are using the metering pump and not burning oil you're in trouble).
If you replace your engine oil with mineral oil you will blow up your engine. The engine oil lubricates and cools the internal componenets of the engine and only regular motor oil will do this well.

WOW!

It will not matter what type of oil you use..switch back and forth..will not cause any issues.. do not listen to the guy above.

I good running rotary will consume about 1 quart every 500 to 1000 miles as an average.

Mineral oil is another name for non syn oil,. engine oil..or old decomposed dinosaurs..

He never said "baby ass oil..."or oil for on the ass of your kid"

Premix it.

Seriously though. Just keep premixing for your first tank and I think that should be enough time for the oil lines to fill up.

If it's GOOD synthetic (if it costs $7+ a quart), just let it run. If it's cheap synthetic, or a blend, change it to a high quality mineral oil.

You can run full synthetic if you want. No issues with modern synthetics and the metering oil system.


Clean the nozzles and use new lines that don't leak.

If you see a lot of oil pooling on the top of the engine, then you may have a cracked tube. Best bet is to just replace them now. They are cheap from the dealer and will last another 20 years.

The pumps almost never fail.

OK, my bad on the mineral oil mix up. I always refer to 2-stroke pre-mix as mineral oil and 4 stroke engine oil (natural or synthetic) as motor oil. I kinda forgot that mineral oil is really the same as natural (non-synthetic) oil and didn't realize the question was about switching between synthetic and natural. Sorry for the errant advice.