Aluminum Housings
 

Hey guys, I just wanted to start a thread about the racing beat aluminum side housings and intermediate housings since I havent seen any on here for the FC. Housings are found here

Race Engine Parts

So what do you think of them? I know for the different rotary engines like the 13B turbo engines, some of the housings aren't being made any more so these could be a good alternative for someone trying to build a new rotary motor. They are a lot more expensive though. normal housings go for around $500 and these are going for over $1500. They are also bound to warp if the engine over heats. Well, any information and knowledgeable insights will be helpful.

They are superior compare to stock, last almost forever (assume ur engine didn't go kabooom!),

FC housing/iron is still being sold at Mazda.

I dont think the 87-88 FC turbo intermediate housing is being sold any more.

There are 2 left.

but why would you want S4 stuff ?

Basically s4 to s4 compatibility. Also, the same reason I don't want automatic seat belts, haha jk. Well, just curious. is it possible to do an aluminum intermediate housing with aluminum rotor housings and iron front and rear housings?

its more like nobody buys them...

any proof or reviews from users?

So either nobody is buying replacement housings or everybody is converting their s4 to an s5 engine setup?

My current engine has extra thick oil support s5 turbo rear iron with the rest of the housings and plates s4 turbo. You should be ok. You just shouldn't mix and match rotor housings due to different spark locations.

people rarely buys them, don't forget, most FC owners are kids these days, they can't even afford brand new stock iron/housing, and will reuse whatever complete garbage they can find as long as it runs (even if it runs like shit)

another problem is most noobs have no idea what to start with them, these aluminum plates are all custom make, you tell RB what port to cut --- most people have no idea what they wanna do. Stock port? why the f u wanna buy something so expensive to run at stock level ? Street port ? yada yada.

Good point. Id say one of my main reasons for this conversation would definitely involve the power to weight ratio of the rx7 in general. Lets compare the general weight of say an s2000, (which is an extremely light car and used to hold the record for most hp compared to amount of cc's of the engine, until Ferrari finally beat them) about 2750 lbs compared to an fc coupe turbo2 which is about 2845 lbs. So the oem intermediate housing is about 25 lbs and the rb is about 10 lbs. That is a big difference. I dont know the total weight savings of a total aluminum engine compared to an iron engine but im guessing maybe 40 lbs. Up the boost a little and the power to weight ratio would be fantastic. On that note, oem port im guessing would be for somebody trying to pass smog with a car that is hard to pass smog as it is. Street port is probably the most reasonable.

nobody on here is big budget enough to buy one.

Pretty sure he means superior as far as weight, but other than that...

I would guess that the aluminum housings will last just as long as the OEM mazda ones.

I know Jeff Kiesel's Rotary midget has them... and it's a beast :p:

would be nice for my PP pipe dreams... honestly the price isnt too bad for what it is. And think of the weight savings!!!!

wonder what an all Al PP engine would cost

Ive had a new aluminum intermediate housing in my hands and the weight savings is significant. Keep in mind there are no provisions for the stock primary injectors location so if you need those machined its cost a decent amount of money I don't remember how much but I talked to Adam @ rx7specialties about it. Also the ports must be cut out if your running side ports or devconed if your running pp.

Last I heard, and all aluminum 13b short block weighs 109lbs fully assembled.

Any chance you know the weight of a fully assembled cast iron block also?

What are your thoughts or dreams about a peripheral port engines. I hear they are unreliable and have to be rebuilt often? Are the horsepower gains worth it.

its about 250lbs, depends on the flywheel/waterpump/rotors.

So we could guess the total weight of a turbo 2 with an aluminum engine being about 2745, 5 lbs less than an s2000. A turbo car being lighter than an N/A car= amazing.

Really, NYCgps was saying how you have to tell racing beat what size port to cut for you. Don't you order the housings to your spec from racing beat?

well depending on what you need/want to keep, you can get it a bunch lighter than that, the my friend has a GTUs with a T2 drivetrain, and its stock, except the exhaust and no ac and its only 2750lbs...

There are several people with FCs lighter than say 2500lbs. I've heard of several full race trim cars under 2000. You just have to be smart about you weight, what you need, and what you can live without.

I would say 2700 would be a reasonable number. Best weight savings I can think to do is a carbon fiber hood. Other weight savings options could be A/C removal and power steering removal which a lot of people choose not to do because they both are so useful for street use. Interior removal should only be used for race applications. The fact that the aluminum engine is an option is great for people who have the money.