again, and again, and again
 

ok im still battling my car and its beating the shit out of me, im going to keep starting new threads till some one helps me and it works right.
my car keeps acting funny, it runs fine when i start it from a cold sit, but any time after the car has been driven it runs like shit. i cant go past any random rpm(the car chooses) then when it cuts out i can give it gas it dosent rev but over loads while loosing rpms. it gerks like shit when its fucking up, also it back fires like a pack of fire crackers when i let of and down shift.
ive replaced a shit load of vacume lines, fuel filter, spark plugs, and i have put on a header with a straight exhaust, and also removed the ACV, and blocked it off.
i have no clue whats wrong with the car, if any one lives local and wants to help me figure it out i would be more than greatful, or if you want to put in your 2 cents do so, before i take a Concrete saw to my car and chop it into a million peices.`

check your coolant sensor as well as the clip for it thats on the wire harness.

Also check fuel pump it may be dying.

good luck

Has the wiring been hacked at all?

Have you tested the CAS as per the factory service manual?

Tried swapping in another leading coil?

When the car acts oddly, does the tach bounce around or quiver?

What are the condition of your grounds?

wireing hasnt been hacked, i just now swaped my coils for the ones outta my 1990 gxl parts car,(hopefully it works) dont know what cas is. the tach does bounce with the rev limit thing its doing, like 500 rpms , if i try to hold it at any rpm. i havent checked my ground,
so could you tell me whre the grounds are, and how to test the cas
thanks
tommy
ohh ill be back in a minute so i can test it out.

ok still fucking up

also how do you check the fuel pump, it sounds fine when i put the key in, i have no rear interior right now. but woulnt hurt to check.`

-Check Fuel Lines/Filter
Look for leaks, cracked pipes/lines, loose clamps, a clogged filter can cause shit too. What year is your car? does it have high imp injectors or low? If they are low, check the resistor paks i know those can cause issues.

-Check Groundpoints
Can cause hesitation, and revving issues, look for loose wires, do the grounding mod if you havent

-Check for leaking/loose vac lines
check for this by looking at all lines, wiggling them on making sure they are snug. OR also turn car on, and spray (i think its wd40 or something) around the lines.. if the car smoothes out revs then you have a leak somewhere. (i think it was like that... someone here i think knows the proper way to check it)

the car is a 1988, i just replace the fuel filter with a new line(rubber one) my bet the more i think about it is it might be the grounds, the car leaks oil out the ass and my step dad said if oil gets in between my gound wire and its point than its fucked.

For the CAS, check the FSM.

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.

i have a haynes manuel, ill check it.

Nice panorama sig.

Thanks! i wanted to do something a little different!

any one know how much it would cost to have mazda check my timing and correct it if its off.

sounds like a faulty TPS

believe me i never thought a TPS could cause such a harsh issue until i had one car that bucked like a motherfucker, cut almost all power and would backfire randomly all because the TPS was dropping voltage once you applied throttle at random times and it would really only do it once the engine was warm.

question, will an S5 tps fit an S4 throttle body, cause i have one lying aroung?

yes and no
only if you cut the wires and make it fit... and use the s4 bracket