After rebuild, wont turn over
 

I recently rebuilt my engine. Tried to start it but it wont engage the starter. Acts as if the clutch isn't depressed. Tried jumpering that clutch switch, but no different results. Quadruple checked my wiring, seems good.
Any ideas?

There is a Black/White wire which comes out of a blue plug that is either plugged into the starter cut relay, found only on cars with a factory alarm, or if not equipped with alarm then the blue plug resides near the main relay in open sight. This B/W wire carries battery voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start. Checking the voltage on this wire while trying to start would be a good starting point as to work from.

Sorry for my ignorance on electrical stuff, but where can I find the main relay?

Should be located basically next to the trailing coil for it is mounted to the same fender,driver side, but closer to the firewall.

I am gonna guess that you missed the Black wire to the Fuse Block on the Engine bay.(it is a positive wire that feeds basically everything).
that will cause NO voltage at the starter's solenoid.
It is an easy thing to miss.
If you have NO lights,No Idiot lights,No Radio ETC,then that is what you missed.
..OH..also check to see that you have put the ground on the Engine.,It Connects to the Top LONG starter bolt and it Feeds the "negative to the Car"(that is the Huge ground from the negative/battery).

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I have idiot lights and I double-checked the ground to the engine. Seems good.

Post #2 anyone?

Looks like I've got the factory alarm. Coming out of that relay are 2 blue wires, a black wire with yellow stripe and a white wire with black stripe. I checked voltage on the black wire when in the starter position and it has voltage. The white wire has no voltage in the starter position.

As shown in the wiring diagram below, the starter cut relay from the factory comes with two Black/Green wires, one Light Green/Yellow, and one Black/White wire. Of the two B/G wires one will have voltage when the key is in the "on" position while the other has voltage when the key is in the start position. The LG/Y wire is a ground wire and the B/W wire carries voltage to the starter solenoid when key is at start. Are you by chance looking at the "main relay" instead, which would be next to the starter cut relay? The main relay has voltage on the B/G and W/L wires at "all" times which is passed onto the B/Y and B/W wires when key is in the "on" position. The main relay would also have a B/W wire that has voltage with the key to "on" and a Black wire which is a ground.

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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
One of the B/G wires has voltage when in the "on" position, but the other has no voltage in the "start" position.
Would that point to a faulty relay? If so, is there a temp workaround until I can source another relay?
TIA for all the help.

Both of the B/G wires supply voltage "to" the starter cut relay so if you indeed have this relay then you can temporarily rule out this particular relay as the problem. You need to direct your focus on the B/G wire which you found to have "no voltage" with the key held to start. The problem might very well be related to the interlock switch located on the clutch pedal. There are a couple of different things you can do to prove this or not. One would be to take a wire bared at both ends and the wire needs to be of a decent length which would be long enough to reach from the positive terminal of the battery to the B/G wire in the starter cut relay plug that does "not" have the voltage with the key held to start. What you would want to do is place one end of the jumper wire snuggly into the spot where this voltageless wire resides and then place the other end of this long jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. This is to be done with the car "not" in gear. Again, car "not" in gear. When you touch the jumper wire to the positive battery terminal voltage should be supplied to the B/W wire that leads down to the starter solenoid and the starter should turn over. Also, the key needs to be in the "on" position when doing this particular test. A variation of this would be to place one end of the jumper wire into the B/W wire where it will come into contact with this wire and with the car not in gear place the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery and the starter solenoid will receive voltage directly from the battery and should turn over and no key is necessary to do this test. The second test verifies the starter is working properly while the first test mentioned checks to see if the starter cut relay is working properly.

If both tests are successful then the problem is apparently related to the interlock switch, found on the clutch pedal and has a little plug looking item that has two wires- one is B/G and the other is B/R. A much smaller jumper wire is needed such as a few inches long. You would need to get down on the floor,drivers side, and place one end of the jumper wire into the B/R wire and the other end of the jumper wire into the B/G wire found in the interlock switch which effectively bypasses this switch and with the key held to start the car should try to start. You might want to do this test first off and skip the tests mentioned above. You have numerous avenues to test this particular circuit and all three tests should yield conclusive results.