if your stock fan works dont install an electric fan. its pretty much completely pointless unless for some reason you need the extra room.
yes its possible to add a switch to turn an electric fan on when the car is off start your car and let it warm up (have someone sitting inside it maybe to make sure it doesn't overheat or anything if this is an issue) and just watch under the hood to see if any coolant or steam is coming out of anywhere. it's pretty simple. if there are no leaks and the level is still going down, you're burning it. my car last winter lost like maybe 1 liter of coolant in 3 months, yet lately it's been totally fine.. i still haven't figured that one out. |
coolant level sensor is the part dead center of the top of the radiator with a wire coming off. could also be broken.
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my coolant sensor actually worked after the 1j swap, but once I switched to an aftermarket rad it constantly went off. so i pulled the cluster, found the little shit buzzer and tore it out. a good solution....if you dont have a rotary
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if you have a coolent seal problem do the block weld mod if you cant afford a rebuild.i did it to my n/a and ive been driving 40 miles a day for 8 months and havent had a coolent problem! it caust under 20$ and only took a day to complete the fix.but make sure you do it right.
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that is some cool info....ill definitely try that out if i ever have a coolant seal problem!
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Thanks for all the help guys, I think it might be a bad thermostat, because the radiator cap is leaking coolant and i dont think its a blown seal. I'll try blocking the weld mod if that dosent work out.
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Originally Posted by RACE IN PEACE JIM NOEL
(Post 10014205)
if you have a coolent seal problem do the block weld mod if you cant afford a rebuild.i did it to my n/a and ive been driving 40 miles a day for 8 months and havent had a coolent problem! it caust under 20$ and only took a day to complete the fix.but make sure you do it right.
Originally Posted by Thundercatzzz
(Post 10019429)
Thanks for all the help guys, I think it might be a bad thermostat, because the radiator cap is leaking coolant and i dont think its a blown seal. I'll try blocking the weld mod if that dosent work out.
so to play on the safe side change so they dont go. goodluck |
My car only has about 72k miles so Im not sure about all that yet. I just got the new thermostat, but it dosent look like it fits anywhere. Can someone tell me? or a diagram would be better. Thanks for all the help. Its a murray plus thermostat if it makes a difference
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nevermind that picture wont work for some reason
its on the front on the waterpump housing just to the lower right of the fan (when facing the engine) |
change the thermistat just so its been done. it should be replaced every year. rather than let go bad, and possably overheating your engine.
but since your leaking out the cap its probably the radiator cap itself. I'm pretty shure this was mentioned. but theres seals in there. |
okay sounds good. When you get a new electric fan, does it come with a module temp control ?
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so i notice that...we have an oem electric fan in front on radiator. is there a way to make a separate switch to turn on the fan when the car is off for 5min to cool down more. Cause i feel after a long ride car is too hot.
Manuel switch is fine. below is the pic from the FMS that shows the 10" blade electric fan. Thanks. http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8893/73086501.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
whoa. sorry pic came out so big . lol
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I've had the same problem... Many a time it comes down to burping it, but when that didn't work, I just yanked the stupid piezo.
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lol did you draw that yourself? very talented
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Originally Posted by iamsisyphus
(Post 10001585)
I had the same problem. Fixed it by putting dielectric grease on the sensor connection at the top of the radiator.
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