89 rx7 tii won't start any ideas?
Ok so I bought a new fuel pump clean the gas tank, did the un flooded procedure, I do have great compression, but it won't run, (I had it runing last week and it was working great) until one day it just stopped I pull the plugs and they are wet in gas, and un flooded again and keeps doing that what could it be (I do have spark because it shock the shit out of me lol)
Any ideas would be appreciated it tha ks |
Faulty FPR, faulty engine temp sensor, leaky injectors.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11817418)
Faulty FPR, faulty engine temp sensor, leaky injectors.
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Well, if you can get the car started and running for a while you would turn the car off and pull the vacuum hose off of the FPR and see if there is fuel in the hose which there shouldn't be.
You can't really test for leaky injectors. The FSM (fuel and emissions section) will provide a list of the ECU pinout which the temp sensor at the dynamic chamber (not the one at the intake) is one of them. It will have a specified voltage reading so check it against that. |
That will be a problem the car won't start and makes it difficult to check whats failing me
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Forget about the temp sensor and FPR as that's more related to hot start problems. The injectors would still be of focus though. You can try to dry off the plugs w/a hair dryer or something similar. Sometimes unplugging the circuit opening relay and spraying 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid in the intake will get the car to start briefly. If it gets the car to start then try it once more before plugging the relay back in and trying to start the car normally. And just because you get shocked bu a coil does not necessarily mean its working up to speed. You pull the plug wire from the coil bore, place the plug boot closely to the coil bore, turn the key to start and observe for spark.
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Ok so I just check my spark and have nothing what could it be?
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Check the EGI INJ fuse and the 15 amp Engine fuse (interior fuse box).
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11817810)
Check the EGI INJ fuse and the 15 amp Engine fuse (interior fuse box).
any other suggestions? |
Does the B/Y wire at the lead coil have 12 volts w/key to on?
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818233)
Does the B/Y wire at the lead coil have 12 volts w/key to on?
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Then you have a loose wire connection (Black/Green wire) at the engine fuse box where it connects to the INJ fuse or at the main relay plug that has 4 wires or the relay is acting up or the battery is low. Check the B/G wire at the relay plug for a constant 12 volts, no key is necessary. If it is low like the B/Y wire then check the B/G connection where it connects to the fuse and make sure the battery is at 12.5 volts or so.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818282)
Then you have a loose wire connection (Black/Green wire) at the engine fuse box where it connects to the INJ fuse or at the main relay plug that has 4 wires or the relay is acting up or the battery is low. Check the B/G wire at the relay plug for a constant 12 volts, no key is necessary. If it is low like the B/Y wire then check the B/G connection where it connects to the fuse and make sure the battery is at 12.5 volts or so.
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It's bolted to the fender between the firewall and trailing coil and it has two plugs to it one w/2 wires and the other w/4 wires (the one you want to take a look at).
And I remembered you have an S5 so the wire colors are a bit different. You still have the B/Y wire coming from the relay running to the coils. You do not have the B/G wire though as it is White/Red. This wire comes from the EGI fuse (you only have one of these as opposed to two on an S4) and it runs to the relay. So, where I previously stated B/G just think W/R instead. |
Ok so I just recheck again in the leading cable green yellow im getting nothing, and black yellow got 12v so the coil should have power right?
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Originally Posted by popeyerx7
(Post 11818686)
Ok so I just recheck again in the leading cable green yellow im getting nothing, and black yellow got 12v so the coil should have power right?
That would be a bit strange that it now has 12 v when before it was about half of that! But in any case, when you tested for spark at the lead coil did you place the plug boots right next to the coil bore? If you did not then do so and see if you now have spark or not. |
I know right, I think something was loose I started putting pressure in every fuse and connection, and I have a question when I check for spark do I leave or remove the egi fuse?
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You always leave it in or the coil would not receive voltage on the B/Y wire. Pulling your EGI fuse is for deflooding and not for checking spark.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818719)
You always leave it in or the coil would not receive voltage on the B/Y wire. Pulling your EGI fuse is for deflooding and not for checking spark.
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Did you check for spark at the trailing coil?
Check the Brown striped wire at the boost sensor w/key to on to see if you have 5 volts. |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818790)
Did you check for spark at the trailing coil?
Check the Brown striped wire at the boost sensor w/key to on to see if you have 5 volts. And just checked the boost sensor and I have 5 volts |
When you use the starter fluid where are you spraying it and are you pulling the circuit opening relay to kill the fuel pump?
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818820)
When you use the starter fluid where are you spraying it and are you pulling the circuit opening relay to kill the fuel pump?
and I removed the egi fuse pull the plugs and cleaned them and step full tthrottle when plugs wurr out, after 3 cranks of 15 sec each, put plugs back wires and conecct everything and crank it but no combustion? ????? Im getting fuel, spark and air so what should I do next? |
Three sprays is too much. A 1 second shot is more than enough. Do you have any of the intake removed? It should not be removed. The spray goes into the intake cowl which then leads to the air box then AFM then throttle body.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11818840)
Three sprays is too much. A 1 second shot is more than enough. Do you have any of the intake removed? It should not be removed. The spray goes into the intake cowl which then leads to the air box then AFM then throttle body.
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