88 RX7 dies when I give it gas.
 

did you calibrate the TPS when you replaced it?

Yes, I calibrated it and made sure it all was within spec.

Check the AFM.

The afm was replaced by the previous owner recently. I bought it from a coworker, he said it used to run and then he parked it for a few months due to a coolant leak and now it dies when you give it throttle.

I replaced the fuel pump after work today and it didn’t change anything. The fuel pump is new, the afm looks and is new, the tps is new and adjusted, I’ve looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. I’m thinking possibly injectors but there’s no way for me to check with them being under the intake. Any ideas?

I’ve continued messing with the car and still haven’t fixed it. I double checked coils, I’ve replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, tps, and checked fuel pressure. I went out this morning and tried to start it and now the tach doesn’t work and it starts and then instantly dies. It didn’t do this last night. Any ideas? I’m at a complete loss.

If it dies as soon as you start it then it might be worth checking the AFM, someone correct if I am wrong, but I believe you are exhibiting the same behaviour as if you were to hotwire the fuel pump and start the car without the AFM, it would go to 3K RPM from the IAC and then die out right after.

I've attached the FSM page to test the AFM, also look for corrosion in the plug and connector

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1d3abbce50.png

I'd check to make sure the intake plates work as expected. . .Might have to take off the snorkel to see them move. . . .You can check them without the car running. Push on the throttle linkage and then inspect the double throttle valve plate operation. .. .Make sure they are in the expected positions at partial and full throttle.

Also check to make sure the throttle cable is properly adjusted.

sounds like you're getting too much air or not enough gas when you open the plates.

As always, change the temp sensor on the water pump plate behind the alternator. .. . always want to ensure temp is not playing a factor. . . It's cheap.

Also, the idle screw should not be full in, or full out, to make it idle at temp.

You can spray some starting fluid around the outside of the intake mechanisms while idling. If you get a spike in RPM's all of a sudden, you have a sucking air leak.. . . . .spray under the intake at the EGR valve and trailing injectors. . . . Just a little, not need to get silly with it. .. . Hit some key spots.. . . intake manifolds. . .o-ring at the snorkle/intake .. . linkage feed thrus.

EGR should be blanked and removed.. . blank off kit is cheap . . .

Change the check valve behind the air control valve.. . . It's cheap. . . .check the solenoid valves on the air control valve with a multimeter per the FSM.

change all the vacuum lines you can to silicon.. . .remember to twist them off nipples.

make sure the cruise control linkage is not messing things up. . .

Check the accelerated warm up linkage is as expected.

Do the initial set coupler, and if possible, do the idle setup procedure from the FSM at temp. . .

i just checked the maf and all the readings were off. It doesn’t change from closed to open so I popped the top off and half the soldered connections were broken. I just ordered a new one. Thank you