88 n/a rx7 not getting power to injectors.
I have seen and read a few posts about this, but can't make sense of them I'm not very good with a volt meter but checked the injector plugs with a test light and some injector tester kit I got from oreilys. None of them show any power while turning the car over. I have tried 3 different ecus and nothing. I have fuel through the fuel system, the fuel pump is good and I have replaced all of the soft fuel lines and blown out the hard lines. The motor starts if I use starting fluid or if I spray gas in the intake. I don't know what else to check, PLEASE HELP! Thanks for the help in advance.
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Originally Posted by joshuanicholas450
(Post 11386302)
I have seen and read a few posts about this, but can't make sense of them I'm not very good with a volt meter but checked the injector plugs with a test light and some injector tester kit I got from oreilys. None of them show any power while turning the car over. I have tried 3 different ecus and nothing. I have fuel through the fuel system, the fuel pump is good and I have replaced all of the soft fuel lines and blown out the hard lines. The motor starts if I use starting fluid or if I spray gas in the intake. I don't know what else to check, PLEASE HELP! Thanks for the help in advance.
The part I find strange about you saying you're not getting power to the injectors, but it starts with starting fluid is that the same +12V wire that feeds the injectors also provides +12V to the ignition coils, so you shouldn"t be getting spark, either. |
try using a Noid light just to make sure that it's working. Check & clean your ground under your UIM.
Worked for me. Hope it helps. |
it's probably the fuel pump or the AFM. jumper the fuel pump test connector and turn the key to on and you should feel pressure going through the fuel lines.
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Is this by chance an engine swap?
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I checked with a noid light and got nothing, also do you by any chance know the color of the ground I'm looking for?
The fuel pump works and fuel is circulating, i checked every way possible. Yes, it's a swap from the same year and model 13b n/a. My first motor caught for so i bought a running replacement. Everything fits nicely and is plugged in, I'm just not getting any injector pulse. |
Which injectors are you testing? The primary injectors, hardest to access, are used for starting and idling, while the secondaries, easiest to access, are not used. Again, make sure the injectors, specifically the primaries, are receiving voltage w/key to on ( as well as start) on the Black/Yellow wire.
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I'm assuming you swapped the harness as well because of the fire, are you sure it wasn't out of a car older than 87.5? If it is and you used the older harness you are probably missing the injector resistor pack on the passenger side fender underneath the stock air filter box.
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check the engine fuse inside the cabin, this would prevent the fuel pump from running though unless you have it jumpered.
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Originally Posted by joshuanicholas450
(Post 11387777)
I checked with a noid light and got nothing, also do you by any chance know the color of the ground I'm looking for?
The fuel pump works and fuel is circulating, i checked every way possible. Yes, it's a swap from the same year and model 13b n/a. My first motor caught for so i bought a running replacement. Everything fits nicely and is plugged in, I'm just not getting any injector pulse. Make sure the meter is set to DC volts. For this test, it doesn't matter if you check the primaries or the secondaries. |
Originally Posted by Molotovman
(Post 11388073)
I'm assuming you swapped the harness as well because of the fire, are you sure it wasn't out of a car older than 87.5? If it is and you used the older harness you are probably missing the injector resistor pack on the passenger side fender underneath the stock air filter box.
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11388121)
check the engine fuse inside the cabin, this would prevent the fuel pump from running though unless you have it jumpered.
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Originally Posted by scathcart
(Post 11388432)
Are you getting +12V to the injectors? Test like I said. We can't help you if you don't do this test.
Make sure the meter is set to DC volts. For this test, it doesn't matter if you check the primaries or the secondaries. |
The Red meter lead measures the voltage and the Black meter lead is placed to a ground such as the negative battery terminal or the alternator housing. The injector receives voltage on the Black/Yellow wire w/key to on ( not constant power).
The lead coil has a white plug w/two wires. One is Black/Yellow. Same wire at the injectors. If this wire does not have voltage w/key to on then check the EGI INJ fuse in the engine fuse box. And use a battery to practice on w/respect to using a multimeter if need be. |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11392868)
The Red meter lead measures the voltage and the Black meter lead is placed to a ground such as the negative battery terminal or the alternator housing. The injector receives voltage on the Black/Yellow wire w/key to on ( not constant power).
The lead coil has a white plug w/two wires. One is Black/Yellow. Same wire at the injectors. If this wire does not have voltage w/key to on then check the EGI INJ fuse in the engine fuse box. |
If the B/Y wire at the lead coil has voltage w/key to on then you know the EGI INJ fuse is good. Secondly, in the FAQ section you will find a pic of the fusebox cover. And it would be the 40 amp fuse.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11392887)
If the B/Y wire at the lead coil has voltage w/key to on then you know the EGI INJ fuse is good. Secondly, in the FAQ section you will find a pic of the fusebox cover. And it would be the 40 amp fuse.
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Originally Posted by joshuanicholas450
(Post 11393551)
I checked this when I got home, and it had power. Molotovman told me to also check for the resistor pack and I found it on the old harness so I plugged it in. Just as I went to try and start the car, the starter took a dump! :scratch: I ordered a new starter and will pick it up tomorrow, hopefully then the car will fire. I will update as soon as I get it put together. Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated!
That resistor pack is probably the issue since it was missing. |
try bumping the key numerous times, the starter wiring is usually bad on these cars.
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
(Post 11393671)
Did you try tapping your starter with a hammer, or did it burn up?
That resistor pack is probably the issue since it was missing. |
Why would an 88 have a resistor pack? Change to high impedance injectors happened in mid 87.
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Originally Posted by scathcart
(Post 11394184)
Why would an 88 have a resistor pack? Change to high impedance injectors happened in mid 87.
S5 doesn't. Trust me I learned the hard way. ... |
Originally Posted by Vert88t2
(Post 11394243)
86-88 have the resistor pack
S5 doesn't. Trust me I learned the hard way. ... |
Originally Posted by Vert88t2
(Post 11394243)
86-88 have the resistor pack
S5 doesn't. Trust me I learned the hard way. ... The 88 FSM doesn't show the resistor pack in the engine wiring diagram. I've worked on S4's that didn"t have them. It wouldn't make sense, either. A car either has low impedance injectors and resistors, or high impedance injectors. All 88's are high impedance, so what would the resistors be doing? |
Originally Posted by scathcart
(Post 11394342)
I disagree. So does the Mazda parts fiche, claiming that the resistor pack for the injectors stops at VIN ending at 550168, june 1987. Part number HE21-18-831. The 88 FSM doesn't show the resistor pack in the engine wiring diagram. I've worked on S4's that didn"t have them. It wouldn't make sense, either. A car either has low impedance injectors and resistors, or high impedance injectors. All 88's are high impedance, so what would the resistors be doing? ... |
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